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ptg threaded bolt handle

I just broke my bolt handle off!!! I put a stainless tactical bolt knob my dad made me on my rem 700 I don't know if I took off too much metal when i ground and threaded it or if the stainless knob is too heavy, it has been on for two years and been through hundreds of cycles. I don't know if I can just have the knob welded and be strong enough or if I will have to replace the handle with a treaded bolt handle. I assume a bolt handle on a stainless remington is also stainless? Ptg site doesn't say if the threaded bolt handles are stainless or not
 
The cast OEM Rem bolt handles have inclusions in them.
Adding weight-aka TactiKool bolt knobs doesn't help matters.

PT&G handles are 4000 series chrome moly & bolt knobs are aluminum.

Your handle can be repaired.

Locating & Timing the handle correctly works wonders compared to adding a baseball bat style TactiKool knob.
 
Yes,OEM Rem handles are 400 series stainless.
Yes,Chrome Moly will rust.
300 series stainless(nickel/non-magnetic) will not rust.
400 series stainless(chromium/magnetic) will rust.

I prefer not to coat/paint my precision instruments.
 
Dan is just like me he tells you like he sees it. He does excellent bolt welding. He has done several for me and has been a mentor welding coach. Could not be a nicer guy. Now Dan "tell me the check is in the mail".
Nat Lambeth
 
Dans40X said:
Yes,OEM Rem handles are 400 series stainless.
Yes,Chrome Moly will rust.
300 series stainless(nickel/non-magnetic) will not rust.
400 series stainless(chromium/magnetic) will rust.

I prefer not to coat/paint my precision instruments.

Just browsing this older post...

Both 300 series and 400 series stainless steels will rust at grain boundaries after welding due to chrome carbide precipitation in the heat affected zone and resultant loss of corrosion resistance. This can be minimized by proper choice of filler material, shielding gas (GTAW), and rate of travel. Stainless steels should be passivated after welding and machining to reduce the potential for rust. 420 and 440C stainless do not passivate well at all by any of the AMS-QQ-P-35 aerospace passivation methods (nitric acid or citric acid. Most of the other alloys do well.

Also, you can get 300 series austenitic stainless to rust by cold working. Martensite formation in the cold worked zone can rust at the grain boundaries, too. The 300 becomes magnetic where it's formed. Try it - take a piece of 1/4" dia. 304 rod stock and bend it 90 degrees. The magnet will not stick at any place except the bend. The shorter the bend radius, the more magnetic.
 

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