PTG bolt nitrited

[liseo]

Hi

Guys, I opened the Remington bolt raceway to .705" and installed a PTG bolt with a diameter of .702". However, it made it very difficult to handle the bolt to open and close.
It felt like it "stuck" to the action, as if the steel in the bolt body was very soft.
Is it possible to nitrid the bolt? Does the steel used in its manufacture allow nitriding? Can I hope that this will help to solve/reduce the problem?
Thanks

Liseo

 

[boltfluter]

Hi

Guys, I opened the Remington bolt raceway to .705" and installed a PTG bolt with a diameter of .702". However, it made it very difficult to handle the bolt to open and close.
It felt like it "stuck" to the action, as if the steel in the bolt body was very soft.
Is it possible to nitrid the bolt? Does the steel used in its manufacture allow nitriding? Can I hope that this will help to solve/reduce the problem?
Thanks

Liseo

Sounds like the bolt is binding in the action somehow. Time for some detective work before you go to nitride. Is it binding in a stock or just the action by itself? A magic marker may show where it is binding. More information would help us help you.
Paul

 

[Walt Krafft]

I have found ptg bolts to need a lot of hand work to get them to fit right. Close inspection with a sharpie if needed will show you where it is binding. Nitride will not solve your problem.

 

[Hal]

Liseo

Did you check for long screws in the scope bases ?
Any chance the bolt is hitting the action screws or the action is being bent or flexed when the action screws are tightened ?

Hal

 

[ELR LVR]

Liseo

Did you check for long screws in the scope bases ?
Any chance the bolt is hitting the action screws or the action is being bent or flexed when the action screws are tightened ?

Hal

an often overlooked culprit
That one screw can protrude and hit the bolt lug
back it out and see if the bolt runs smooth

 

[butchlambert]

My experience with the PT&G bolts are they need a lot of lapping.

 

[ricco1949]

Run your .705 reamer through again....

 

[Walt Krafft]

Several of the bolts I have messed with were lacking a chamfer on the outer edge of the bolt lugs. This edge would dig in and drag like you are feeling. Adding a chamfer allowed the lugs to seat and freed up the function.

 

[Dan-Schenk]

an often overlooked culprit
That one screw can protrude and hit the bolt lug
back it out and see if the bolt runs smooth

Just had this happen after redoing the bedding on mine. Took me about 20 min of head scratching to figure it out. Very easy to overlook.

 

[ELR LVR]

Just had this happen after redoing the bedding on mine. Took me about 20 min of head scratching to figure it out. Very easy to overlook.

The dremel with diamond wheel is our friend
Always have to shave that one scope mounting screw to custom length

 

[tmwinds]

Not suggesting that you do this since I don’t have a clue about fitting A bolt but it worked for me.
I had an action and bolt that had the same problem. I lathered the bolt up with JB bore paste and worked it for several hundred strokes. Got it slick.

 

[jelenko]

Not suggesting that you do this since I don’t have a clue about fitting A bolt but it worked for me.
I had an action and bolt that had the same problem. I lathered the bolt up with JB bore paste and worked it for several hundred strokes. Got it slick.

Yeah. I don't know how recommended that would be but I've done the same - only with Iosso.

 

[butchlambert]

I used a course valve lapping compound.

 

[tobnpr]

However, it made it very difficult to handle the bolt to open and close.

If the bolt slides easily fully forward, and resistance is only when putting it into battery, it's not a warped bolt body or raceway.

If the resistance is "both ways" (into and out of battery)- and it's not a protruding scope base screw- check to be sure you have bolt clearance at the receiver bridge. Normally it's a case of too much clearance that creates primary extraction problems- but I suppose it's possible (though not likely) you're lacking clearance with an aftermarket bolt?