PTG benchrest cocking piece

[OIF/OEF]

Anyone ever tried one of these? Did you notice a difference? Thanks for any help or advice...


Very Respectfully Submitted

 

[STS]

I've not used the PTG part specifically but have surface ground .030 off the stock Remington cocking piece. The trigger hand off is noticeably smoother at the cost of .030 shorter firing pin fall.

 

[boltfluter]

Seems like a great way to get misfires. Maybe I just don't understand the advantage of this. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Regards, Paul

www.boltfluting.com

 

[STS]

It minimizes cock on close. I have not had any ignition issues with the rifles that have this modification. There is a trick or two that can offset any firing pin inertia changes.

 

[Gabe22BR]

It minimizes cock on close. I have not had any ignition issues with the rifles that have this modification. There is a trick or two that can offset any firing pin inertia changes.

"Can anyone shed some light on this? "

 

[Dans40X]

It references to striker/cocking piece to sear bar "HAND OFF TIMING"

All Remington's & most of the Clones w/ exception of a couple, the bolts/handles are TIMED into BATTERY.
(not good for the money spent)
All Remington's & most of the Clones once again w/ exception of a couple,the firing pin is cock on open & cock on close because striker/cocking piece to sear HAND OFF TIMING improperly engineered.

The HAND OFF timing issue will change trigger pull in excess of 3/4Lb depending on how the bolt is cycled.
(not my first rodeo)

Any Speed Lock, lightweight firing pin is a total waste of money unless you are installing it on a Win70 or Military rifle w/ lock time 2-2.5 times what a Rem is out of the box.
Lighter pin-yes
Heavier spring-yes
Heavier bolt lift-yes
Reduced Lock time-NO
Break if dry fired-yes

It's not rocket science!!

 

[Alex Wheeler]

That PTG part should never be used unless you intend to do the rest of the job to regain firing pin fall. Just because it goes bang does not mean you have consistent ignition. And no, you cant just put a heavier spring in it to make up for lack of fall. Theres only one way to properly time the ignition on an action, and it is a total rework. Pin fall must remain in that .250" range with a full strength spring and solid firing pin.

 

[Badbob]

That PTG part should never be used unless you intend to do the rest of the job to regain firing pin fall. Just because it goes bang does not mean you have consistent ignition. And no, you cant just put a heavier spring in it to make up for lack of fall. Theres only one way to properly time the ignition on an action, and it is a total rework. Pin fall must remain in that .250" range with a full strength spring and solid firing pin.

So, if I have .275" of pin fall on my R700 action, then taking .030" off the cocking piece, sear engagement face, should not only help with cock on close and hard bolt closure but I should still have the pin fall in the acceptable range (.245")--would you agree?

If not, what other "rework" must be done?

thanks BB

 

[Alex Wheeler]

You would be ok if thats how your ignition measures up. You will still have a lot of cock on close. If you can not eliminate it 100% I think they feel better when they have enough cock on close that it starts right when you start to close the bolt. At least that way its smooth for the most part, rather than the bolt falling to the handoff then recocking again. Thats a clunking feeling setup. The stock ignition will have a good amount of drag in it and does benefit from that extra pin fall.