Prvi partizan in .338 lap

[muleman69]

Has anyone tried this brass in the .338 lapua? I have reviewed it in other calibers but can't find anything on the .338 lapua

 

[shortthroat]

I have run about 100 rounds through my Alexander Ulfberht getting perhaps 4 or 5 loads out of each brass. The Ulfberht is semi-auto and consequently it is hard on brass. The usual failure is a torn or bent rim. These loads are mostly done with 93 gr. RL-33 and a 300 gr. SMK. It is decent brass for the price. Nosler is better, and Lapua is the best but PPU makes sense for the price when you know you will be throwing brass with every round. I am using Nosler too, buying it when on sale at Midway or Midsouth.

 

[Wildcat455]

Here's my story. Don't know if it'll help you.

When I bought my first 338 LM, I picked up 4 boxes of PPU loaded cartridges. I wanted to give them a try because the PPU Cartridges I had bought in 300 Win Mag worked out great
I was planning on using them to break the rifle in, and then use the cases for hand loading. The loaded cartridges weren't very accurate in my rifle, but I figured it might not be a total loss, because I still had the brass and could try hand loading them. Well, that didn't work out either due to inconsistencies in the brass. Still have about 47 rounds of factory loaded PPU. The only load that kind of worked out was for 250 gr Hornady BTHP Match, but due to wide variation in volume and case weight, and the fact that case volume would not support the 300 gr Berger Elite Hunter at the velocities I wanted to run them. So, with all that I moved on from them.

Hornady and ADG Brass would support both 250 and 300 grain for me, so I began testing with those cases.

 

[muleman69]

Here's my story. Don't know if it'll help you.

When I bought my first 338 LM, I picked up 4 boxes of PPU loaded cartridges. I wanted to give them a try because the PPU Cartridges I had bought in 300 Win Mag worked out great
I was planning on using them to break the rifle in, and then use the cases for hand loading. The loaded cartridges weren't very accurate in my rifle, but I figured it might not be a total loss, because I still had the brass and could try hand loading them. Well, that didn't work out either due to inconsistencies in the brass. Still have about 47 rounds of factory loaded PPU. The only load that kind of worked out was for 250 gr Hornady BTHP Match, but due to wide variation in volume and case weight, and the fact that case volume would not support the 300 gr Berger Elite Hunter at the velocities I wanted to run them. So, with all that I moved on from them.

Hornady and ADG Brass would support both 250 and 300 grain for me, so I began testing with those cases.

I wish I had seen this last night as I ordered some just to start out with (mainly because I'm cheap) I do have some better brass coming though. I did get some in .300 win as well. So what loads are working out best for you in the.338? I need a place to start,the rifle is a 112 savage 1 in 10 Twist I think

 

[ebb]

Bruno's had Lapua 338 brass on sale cheaper than I have ever seen it.

 

[Wildcat455]

I wish I had seen this last night as I ordered some just to start out with (mainly because I'm cheap) I do have some better brass coming though. I did get some in .300 win as well. So what loads are working out best for you in the.338? I need a place to start,the rifle is a 112 savage 1 in 10 Twist I think

You never know, you may get lucky. If you have a digital scale, Weight sorting will tell the story for you. If possible, group them in 1.5 grain case weight groups. The more cases you can get in each group, the less jacking around you'll do with load development .

One thing that worked for me in the 300 win mag using the PPU cases was finding an accurate load with a group of cases with no more than 1.5 gr weight difference, then manipulating the charge weight .1 grains for every 1.5 gr of case weight to keep velocity range the same. If case weight was higher, I'd reduce by .1 gr, if case weight was lower, I'd increase by .1 gr. Does that make sense?
I has some of the lowest ES and SD numbers running it this way. It is without a doubt a major PITA to do.

I have not tried this in the 338 LM yet. It may be different.
Just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Water volume for the PPU cases for me ran about 113.5 gr
Has similar volume as Lapua brass, but PPU is heavier. Lapua weighs in the neighborhood of about 335 gr and the PPU weighs in the neighborhood of 352 gr.
This was data I obtained off the cases I had.

All I could use PPU cases for was 250 gr bullets, at least at the speeds I needed to achieve my high node.

I run them in a Savage 110 FCPS-HS with a 9 twist 26" barrel.

My chamber BTL measurement is 2.983"
My chamber BTS is at 2.260"


Load Data for my rifle using PPU Case:

90 gr H1000
250 gr Hornady BTHP Match
PPU case
Federal 215M primer
CL 2.714"
BTS 2.258" (.002" shoulder bump)
BTO 2.955" .028" jump
COAL 3.655"
2991 FPS


Load Data for my rifle using Hornady Case:

99.5 gr RL33
300 gr Berger Elite Hunter
Hornady case
Federal 215M primer
CL 2.714"
BTS 2.258" (.002" shoulder bump)
BTO 2.975" .007" jump
COAL 3.825"
2800 FPS

ADG load for 300 Berger is about the same as my Hornady load, .5 gr less powder.
The ADG cases are way better though in my opinion.

Hope all this helps you!

Good luck!

 

[Wildcat455]

Bruno's had Lapua 338 brass on sale cheaper than I have ever seen it.

Bruno's has really good pricing. Great people, too!

They had Bergers on sale as well. Think their sale ends Monday though.

 

[muleman69]

You never know, you may get lucky. If you have a digital scale, Weight sorting will tell the story for you. If possible, group them in 1.5 grain case weight groups. The more cases you can get in each group, the less jacking around you'll do with load development .

One thing that worked for me in the 300 win mag using the PPU cases was finding an accurate load with a group of cases with no more than 1.5 gr weight difference, then manipulating the charge weight .1 grains for every 1.5 gr of case weight to keep velocity range the same. If case weight was higher, I'd reduce by .1 gr, if case weight was lower, I'd increase by .1 gr. Does that make sense?
I has some of the lowest ES and SD numbers running it this way. It is without a doubt a major PITA to do.

I have not tried this in the 338 LM yet. It may be different.
Just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Water volume for the PPU cases for me ran about 113.5 gr
Has similar volume as Lapua brass, but PPU is heavier. Lapua weighs in the neighborhood of about 335 gr and the PPU weighs in the neighborhood of 352 gr.
This was data I obtained off the cases I had.

All I could use PPU cases for was 250 gr bullets, at least at the speeds I needed to achieve my high node.

I run them in a Savage 110 FCPS-HS with a 9 twist 26" barrel.

My chamber BTL measurement is 2.983"
My chamber BTS is at 2.260"


Load Data for my rifle using PPU Case:

90 gr H1000
250 gr Hornady BTHP Match
PPU case
Federal 215M primer
CL 2.714"
BTS 2.258" (.002" shoulder bump)
BTO 2.955" .028" jump
COAL 3.655"
2991 FPS


Load Data for my rifle using Hornady Case:

99.5 gr RL33
300 gr Berger Elite Hunter
Hornady case
Federal 215M primer
CL 2.714"
BTS 2.258" (.002" shoulder bump)
BTO 2.975" .007" jump
COAL 3.825"
2800 FPS

ADG load for 300 Berger is about the same as my Hornady load, .5 gr less powder.
The ADG cases are way better though in my opinion.

Hope all this helps you!

Good luck!

Thank you for the great info , Can't wait to get my stuff and get started. Do you prefer the 300 grain over the 250? I will be using it to shoot steel out to one mile + if I can. Did you special order the 9 twist? Think mine is 10,not sure what would be the better bullet weight?

 

[Wildcat455]

Thank you for the great info , Can't wait to get my stuff and get started. Do you prefer the 300 grain over the 250? I will be using it to shoot steel out to one mile + if I can. Did you special order the 9 twist? Think mine is 10,not sure what would be the better bullet weight?

Yeah, I do prefer the 300 over the 250. Especially for what you are after. Better in wind, more energy, better retained velocity. The 250's cost a little less, by about $5 a box or more depending on your selection.


I started out with both. My Savage rifle prefers the 300 gr.
Shoots them better than it does the 250's, but I haven't given up completely on the 250's yet, just kind of got derailed by the early preference of my rifle. Ill come back to them at some point and try to convince my rifle to like them.

On the 9 twist. That is the factory offering in the 110 FCP-HS

Is your rifle the 112 magnum target? If so, it's also a 9 twist.

I wouldn't worry too much even if your rifle is a 10 twist. It'll still handle most of the offerings in 250-300 gr. range. Check bullet manufacturing specs prior to purchase. They will tell you what twist their bullets need to spin.
To start with, you'll need to Figure out what load and bullet your rifle likes. For what you're about to do, it will be highly important
If your rifle doesn't like the 250's or the 300's, Don't overlook the Hornady 285 gr. Some guys are having pretty good experience with that bullet.

 

[muleman69]

Yeah, I do prefer the 300 over the 250. Especially for what you are after. Better in wind, more energy, better retained velocity. The 250's cost a little less, by about $5 a box or more depending on your selection.


I started out with both. My Savage rifle prefers the 300 gr.
Shoots them better than it does the 250's, but I haven't given up completely on the 250's yet, just kind of got derailed by the early preference of my rifle. Ill come back to them at some point and try to convince my rifle to like them.

On the 9 twist. That is the factory offering in the 110 FCP-HS

Is your rifle the 112 magnum target? If so, it's also a 9 twist.

I wouldn't worry too much even if your rifle is a 10 twist. It'll still handle most of the offerings in 250-300 gr. range. Check bullet manufacturing specs prior to purchase. They will tell you what twist their bullets need to spin.
To start with, you'll need to Figure out what load and bullet your rifle likes. For what you're about to do, it will be highly important
If your rifle doesn't like the 250's or the 300's, Don't overlook the Hornady 285 gr. Some guys are having pretty good experience with that bullet.

I was off on the twist, it is a 12. I did read were people were having good luck with the hornady .285 ELD's . I no the .208 ELD's shoot lights out in my buddy's .300WM . I really appreciate the help and advice , now to start developing loads. If you have anything to add I'm all ears

 

[Wildcat455]

12 twist savage 338 Lapua? Which model is it you have?

I was under the impression Savage only had 9 twist 338 Lapua Magnums?

Is this a new rifle or an older one?

You sure it's not an older Sako?

If it is indeed a 12 twist, that may hinder your ability to stabilize heavier projectiles at extended long range, others can speak to that if they happen to also have a 12 twist 338 Lapua Magnum.

You can measure the twist rate yourself to be certain.
Use a long cleaning rod, insert tight fitting jag with patch partially in muzzle of barrel, Mark the rod at handle at 12 oo'clock position. Place another mark on the rod at muzzle of barrel, push rod into barrel while watching the mark at the handle end, until mark at handle returns to 12 o'clock, Mark rod at muzzle again then remove rod and measure rod between marks you made at muzzle.

 

[muleman69]

12 twist savage 338 Lapua? Which model is it you have?

I was under the impression Savage only had 9 twist 338 Lapua Magnums?

Is this a new rifle or an older one?

You sure it's not an older Sako?

If it is indeed a 12 twist, that may hinder your ability to stabilize heavier projectiles at extended long range, others can speak to that if they happen to also have a 12 twist 338 Lapua Magnum.

You can measure the twist rate yourself to be certain.
Use a long cleaning rod, insert tight fitting jag with patch partially in muzzle of barrel, Mark the rod at handle at 12 oo'clock position. Place another mark on the rod at muzzle of barrel, push rod into barrel while watching the mark at the handle end, until mark at handle returns to 12 o'clock, Mark rod at muzzle again then remove rod and measure rod between marks you made at muzzle.

I have to apologize, it is a 1 and 9 (sorry)

 

[Wildcat455]

I have to apologize, it is a 1 and 9 (sorry)

LOL!

No need to apologize! I make mistakes all the time!

That 9 twist is your green light to run whatever weight bullet shoots well in it! Especially to your extended ranges on steel.

All this talk about 338 LM got me all fired up to try something new with those 338 LM PPU Cartridges I bought a while back.
It's a trick I learned shooting factory winchester super X 180 gr power points and Federal 180 gr Speer Hot Cor's in my 300 win mags. I bought them long ago on sale for like $13.00 a box. You can't even buy brass for that now, (works out to .65 cents apiece) and these came pre loaded for fire forming! Needless to say, I loaded up on them back then! LOL!
I use an RCBS collet puller and partially pull bullets then reseat them at just touching the lands.

I set those 338 LM PPU 250's up for another 338 LM I have, a Christensen Arms BA Tactical. It has a 27" carbon fiber barrel with a 1:10 twist.
It'll be a while before I can shoot them, I'm leaving for West Virginia taking my dad to my nephews place (his grandson) to hunt deer and spend thanksgiving with them.
But I was just killing time before we take off so I figured I'd do it and when I get back, go try them out and see what's what.

3 of my 4 300 WM seem to like the ones I've done that to better than just running factory length. They shoot them sub 1" @100 yards anyway, so it makes it worth it a little bit for practice, fire forming and an occaisional deer hunt with them. (When I expect ranges to be inside of 400 yards.)

 

[muleman69]

LOL!

No need to apologize! I make mistakes all the time!

That 9 twist is your green light to run whatever weight bullet shoots well in it! Especially to your extended ranges on steel.

All this talk about 338 LM got me all fired up to try something new with those 338 LM PPU Cartridges I bought a while back.
It's a trick I learned shooting factory winchester super X 180 gr power points and Federal 180 gr Speer Hot Cor's in my 300 win mags. I bought them long ago on sale for like $13.00 a box. You can't even buy brass for that now, (works out to .65 cents apiece) and these came pre loaded for fire forming! Needless to say, I loaded up on them back then! LOL!
I use an RCBS collet puller and partially pull bullets then reseat them at just touching the lands.

I set those 338 LM PPU 250's up for another 338 LM I have, a Christensen Arms BA Tactical. It has a 27" carbon fiber barrel with a 1:10 twist.
It'll be a while before I can shoot them, I'm leaving for West Virginia taking my dad to my nephews place (his grandson) to hunt deer and spend thanksgiving with them.
But I was just killing time before we take off so I figured I'd do it and when I get back, go try them out and see what's what.

3 of my 4 300 WM seem to like the ones I've done that to better than just running factory length. They shoot them sub 1" @100 yards anyway, so it makes it worth it a little bit for practice, fire forming and an occaisional deer hunt with them. (When I expect ranges to be inside of 400 yards.)

Okay thanks ,have a great hunt. I'm with you on the .300 cal as I run my bergers with in .010 ,they seem to like it close to lands