• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Proper bushing, 222 rem?

Hi

Need your help with this one. I`ve bought a set of Wilson dies for my soon to be rebarreled Sako Vixen in 222 Rem.
But`I haven`t got a clue regarding the proper bushing one need. This is not a tight neck. The guy who sold me the dies suggested .246-.248 bushings but it can`t hurt to double check.

How much better are the "coated" bushings compared to the SS ones?

Take care.
//Rolf
 
The bushing you will need is determined by,1) the bullet diameter,2) the thickness of the brass in the neck and,3) the amount of neck tension. The first two are physical measurements.
 
Thanks Win.
I did know about this but I would like to know which bushing you guys, that use the same combination, has in your dies.

//Rolf
 
rolf said:
I did know about this but I would like to know which bushing you guys, that use the same combination, has in your dies.

It doesn't matter what anyone else uses, since it all depends on the brass you have. Since neck wall thicknesses vary from brand to brand and lot to lot within brands, and, you're not turning necks to make it all the same, you'll have to select your bushings based on the brass that you are using.

Depending on the consistency of your brass, you may find it a bit difficult to get consistent neck tension with unturned brass. The thicker necks will get more tension than the thinner ones. When you get your rifle back and start working up loads, you can experiment a little and see if it matters. If it does, you might want to consider a Lee Collet Die.

I have a bunch of the Hornady coated bushings, but I'm switching to the Wilson uncoated bushings myself.
 
rolf: As the other posts suggest, you must determine what bushing size to use. Load a round with the brass & bullet,s) you plan on using, then measure the loaded neck dia. It will probably be around .248"/.249". Subtract .002", and order that size bushing, plus one .001" larger, and one .001" smaller. I prefer the uncoated Redding bushings $10 each), as the number stamping idents on the Wilson are unreadable w/o a magnifying glass. I also re-barreled an original Sako Vixen 222,,Bofors steel barrel was heavily pitted, as seen w/ my borescope), replaced with Hart ss 1-14: Excellent groups, consistant 1/2 moa w/ 5 shots @ 200 yd. Accuracy load is 22.2 H322,Hodgdon load) w/ 50 gr. V-Max, seated .020" off the lands. Recently picked up another original Sako Vixen, this one in 222 Rem. mag, also with a pitted Bofors barrel, but less than the 222 was. I've been told Bofors steel had a high sulpher content that causes the pitting. Both rifles great shooters though.:)
 
Thanks guys. I don`t want to sound like a Mr Knowitall, that`s the last thing I`m.
My thoughts was that because this gun will be used almost exclusively for hunting I don`t want the extra job with the neckturning. But perhaps it would be better to do this on a couple of hundred cases and then be set for a long period of time?
Next question then. Which case do I choose? I`ve Norma, Win, Rem and Federal to choose from. I think I can find Lapua to but they are so much heavier then the others that I suspect they will render higher pressure. Norma is the most common case here but I can get hold of the others to.

//Rolf
 
rolf said:
...My thoughts was that because this gun will be used almost exclusively for hunting I don`t want the extra job with the neckturning. But perhaps it would be better to do this on a couple of hundred cases and then be set for a long period of time?

Personally, I prefer to neck turn just because it takes another variable out of the equation. But, personally, since you're not getting a tight-necked chamber, I'd try it without first. Then you can try it on a small batch if you want and decide if it's worth the extra effort.

rolf said:
Next question then. Which case do I choose? I`ve Norma, Win, Rem and Federal to choose from. I think I can find Lapua to but they are so much heavier then the others that I suspect they will render higher pressure. Norma is the most common case here but I can get hold of the others to.

If you can find any of the RWS brass there, I'd buy a bunch of that and not do a thing to it. I bought some of the last Lapua 222 here in the states and was very disappointed with it. I haven't heard anything real promising about the Norma 222 brass, but then the price differential is pretty high here. The last 222 brass I bought was Winchester and it wasn't all that great either. I had to toss about five cases out of each bag just for messed up necks.

Don't worry about how much a case weighs or the differences in volume between brands. Just work up the appropriate load for the case. High pressure is the result of an incorrect load, not too little case volume.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,252
Messages
2,214,913
Members
79,496
Latest member
Bie
Back
Top