proof carbon barrel rechamber

[Elite Precision]

so a buddy of mine brought me his proof carbon barrel, sendero light contour, 24", and already chambered in 6.5 creed. it has never been fired. this friend had someone else start the build but it was brought to me after some less than confident actions from the previous "smith"....the threads for the tenon are way undersized @ 1.052and the action fits on sloppy... some one did a garage thread job here.. after further inspection and measuring, the bolt nose recess is .712 and the bolt nose is .692. seems like another hack job.... they were nice enough to put some red loctite on the tenon to make the action stick.. lol.. it all does come up tight to the lug and barrel shoulder, but im worried about a few things........my main question is, are those tolerances even safe to fire a round? if not, can the threads be parted off and then the tenon re-cut, bolt recess re-cut, and then re chambered deeper? the steel shank is only 2.500 to start. right now the tenon is @.963". that includes a .250" lug. .963-.250=.713.....2.500-.713=1.787 left in the steel shank before it narrows down significantly to the carbon wrap.... any help is much appreciated in advance.

Matt

 

[Danny1788]

Super tight action threads are not good, And prone to gal. If it’s makes up tight and squares up at the shoulder then it’s safe. Think how sloppy factory Rem barrels are!!! The bolt nose recess at .712” is not a big deal either if the bolt has an M16 extractor it might have been cut that way from the start. I don’t know why as only the magnum bolt face needs to be larger size then the standard .705”

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Thread major diameter is not critical. Your missing about .005 off the crest of the tread which would not have done much to begin with. Pitch diameter is what controls thread fit, and again a little loose is fine. All threads tighten up when torqued, loose ones have more clearance on the back of the tread. Only a tight thread can harm accuracy. The nose clearance is fine. Some people get very into the 3 rings of steel thing, Im not one of them. Most actions do not even have a nose that fits into a recess in the barrel, I do not consider them unsafe.

 

[Danny1788]

why doesn't he just shoot it? if it doesn't group then try to figure out what the problem is. With an expensive barrel like those PROOF id say test it first.

 

[alintx]

Thread major diameter is not critical. Your missing about .005 off the crest of the tread which would not have done much to begin with. Pitch diameter is what controls thread fit, and again loose is fine. All threads tighten up when torqued, loose ones have move clearance on the back of the tread. Only a tight thread can harm accuracy. The nose clearance is fine. Some people get very into the 3 rings of steel thing, Im not one of them. Most actions do not even have a nose that fits into a recess in the barrel, I do not consider them unsafe.

I usually hit the tops of the threads with a flat file while its turning just to get a little clearance. They seem to fit better and tighten up smoother

 

[Elite Precision]

so i fit the action to the barrel, got it hand tight, and the go gauge allows the bolt to close, but when i open the bolt, its not hitting the cam to bump the bolt back out. i have to give it a good pull to get the bolt to come backwards. is there a easy fix to this while i have every thing in the lathe? can i machine a tad on either the barrel shoulder? face? bolt face? or do i need to just send it to Dan @ accutig and have him re weld the bolt handle? any thoughts?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

The chamber has nothing to do with where the bolt handle hits. If its gotta be tapped back unloaded you got a bolt nose rubbing in the counterbore. Once thats fixed and the bolt doesnt hit the cam you need to get that fixed by somebody

 

[butchlambert]

so i fit the action to the barrel, got it hand tight, and the go gauge allows the bolt to close, but when i open the bolt, its not hitting the cam to bump the bolt back out. i have to give it a good pull to get the bolt to come backwards. is there a easy fix to this while i have every thing in the lathe? can i machine a tad on either the barrel shoulder? face? bolt face? or do i need to just send it to Dan @ accutig and have him re weld the bolt handle? any thoughts?

I don't know how to say this nicely, but you need to take this to a competent gunsmith. It appears to be over your head.
Kinda grouchy sounding, but!

 

[Bully]

but when i open the bolt, its not hitting the cam to bump the bolt back out. i have to give it a good pull to get the bolt to come backwards.

I don't know much but it sounds like your primary extraction is off and sending it to Accu-Tig or Chad at Long Rifles Inc would be a good thing. Maybe call one of them to discuss in detail what you need. I do know that Chad requires the action be sent in order to fix all the issues with extraction.

 

[msalm]

It does sound like he's about to screw up a $800 blank trying to prove to his buddy he's better than the other 'hack'