Promise...last question for awhile; Applying Tru-Oil onto checkered surfaces.

[VaniB]

I'm trying to make a final decision between using a 2-part automotive clear paint.....or simply using Tru-Oil. I'm looking to refinish my old 1970's BDL stock and apply a final gloss clear finish similar to the original factory look.

My only concern about using Tru-Oil is that I wondered how one goes about getting a nice gloss finish while applying it onto the factory checkered surfaces. (?) I will be stripping off the old Remington epoxy finish using a none-water based stripper in an attempt to prevent the wood from raising and making "hair". I want to try to avoid having to sand or steel wool over the factory checkering as much as possible, as I do not want to dull it and ruin it. Will Tru-Oil soak and seat into the checkering where I will not be able to buff it and get it to shine? I've successfully used tru-oil on smooth stocks, but never applied it over checkering and grooves where I figure I will not be able to work with it so easy during the 10-12 coats I'll be applying.

 

[katokoch]

I don't know what might be left in the checkering after you strip that stock, but I do know fresh cut, bare wood diamonds will be thirsty for finish. The checkering area has more surface area and open pores exposed than a flat surface. Once the diamonds are saturated the finish can easily collect and pool up in the grooves and look sloppy, I think it makes the diamonds look dull too. If you simply applied Tru Oil to the checkering patterns like the rest of the stock, I'm guessing they would get soaked pretty fast.

I haven't been checkering for very long (still very talented at finding new ways to screw it up) but so far I've been cutting Tru Oil with a bit of mineral spirits and very gently sponging it onto the diamonds, applying just enough with each application to cover them but not saturate them. One hand holds the sponge with finish mix, the other has a paper towel/napkin ready to gently wipe or dab away any excess. I do that a few times 'til the checkering pattern stops being so thirsty and the finish matches the rest of the stock. If finish does collect in the grooves you can clean them out with a single line checkering cutter and V-cutter along the borders, but if you screw up you've got a nice setback to deal with. This has worked pretty well for me, so far.

That's a CZ 452FS stock I re-cut with some finish being applied for the first time. My camera noticed the excess along the right edge before I did.

 

[Preacher]

Use a new tooth brush to rid the checkering of the oil you have applied, each time you apply a new coat..
It will leave enough to seal the wood..
Remember that Tru-oil will yellow in the sun after a while, Auto Clears will not......

 

[shortgrass]

"Chit can" the Tru-Oil and get some Pro Custom Oil. Apply a couple of coats of Permalyn Sealer before the oil.

 

[jrm850]

On softer woods, like most factory stocks, find a penetrating sealer to apply to the checkering before re-cutting. The facets will shine like real diamonds, and you won't have any points come off. The harder it dries the better.