Adam 6mm build
Silver $$ Contributor
My 700 action are not smooth what is the best products on the market to use to make them smooth like glass thanks Adam
Products to get smooth action
- Thread starter Adam 6mm build
- Start date
long40shot
Gold $$ Contributor
Shot, cycle bolt. Repeat.
Terry
Gold $$ Contributor
Prose
Silver $$ Contributor
My little brother has a CZ long action that cycled like a tank tread on a square wheel. Jewelers Rouge is what he used after a couple different gunsmiths recommended that he just cycle and repeat. He figured he did about 4,000 cycles with oil before trying the rouge, and about 1,000 more with it. Cycles okay compared to before. You can wreck your bolt if you get the rouge in the wrong places though.
About 2 months ago I bought an H&R model 12 .22 target rifle. It is in really nice shape but when I got it the bolt cycling was crappy-sticky-catchy. I checked it and cleaned it but it didn't help the crappy cycling.
As life happens, I had an automatic garage door go haywire about 3 months ago and had to completely go through all of the moving parts including the rollers and replace and reinforce several things all in below freezing temps.
In the process I picked up some lube at Menards called IDEAL DOOR Garage Door Pro Lube. I was wondering how well this stuff would work in cold temps. It bubbles when sprayed out at first but I was really impressed how it worked on the old rollers and tracks and other moving parts on the garage door.
Anyway as you guessed by now, it applied a thin coat of this stuff with a rag on the M12 bolt just to see if it might help......Totally different rifle and action. VERY SMOOTH NOW! I know I have to watch dirt and dust accumulation but this thing is a pleasure to cycle now.
Hope you get it smoothed out.
As life happens, I had an automatic garage door go haywire about 3 months ago and had to completely go through all of the moving parts including the rollers and replace and reinforce several things all in below freezing temps.
In the process I picked up some lube at Menards called IDEAL DOOR Garage Door Pro Lube. I was wondering how well this stuff would work in cold temps. It bubbles when sprayed out at first but I was really impressed how it worked on the old rollers and tracks and other moving parts on the garage door.
Anyway as you guessed by now, it applied a thin coat of this stuff with a rag on the M12 bolt just to see if it might help......Totally different rifle and action. VERY SMOOTH NOW! I know I have to watch dirt and dust accumulation but this thing is a pleasure to cycle now.
Hope you get it smoothed out.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
if its one of the newer shot blasted with gravel action finishes then theres not much youre going to be able to do.
mike mccormick
Silver $$ Contributor
Yeah....cause everyone has a couple grand to spare....
The manufacturing engineers specifically put those costly finishes on so they hold lubricants better
I had a Savage that was rough. Tore the bolt apart and coated the surfaces with Flitz, then reassembled. Coated raceway and lugs too. Cycled mucho times for approx one hour. After cleaning thoroughly it was clear the rough spots were knocked down. Much smoother! Flitz is a very fine polishing abrasive, don't recommend a coarse compound.
tclaunch
Silver $$ Contributor
Run your fingers over the bolt and feel for burrs. Lightly sand them with super fine paper, then turn a piece of material to .690" or so x 8 to 10" long and wrap it with 320 grit and push it through the raceways to remove burrs. Guarantee it will help.
I got a friends 700 with PTG bolt and it had burrs everywhere, polished the raceways and he was super delighted.
You obviously have never owned a Farley action. I've owned 4 Rimrocks and 3 Farleys and there is NO comparison.
I have used metal polish in the raceways only on the rear bridge top & bottom and cycled the action in an evening of watching tv.
After many many cyclings, you can see where the high spots are polished off.
Do not use polish containing any grit, like those used for polishing paint. It WILL embed in the metal no matter if it says it doesn’t.
As to lugs that are rough, I lap them with fine valve grinding paste.
Disassemble the bolt, use a sharpie and colour the rear of the lugs and cycle open/close a few times with rearward finger pressure.
The lug that is wiped is the one you need to lap FIRST!
Lap this lug until contact is evident on the SECOND lug. Then continue until at least 75% contact is made on BOTH lugs.
Then I lap them both until I see 80-90% contact, which is a near full wipe across the entire lug surface from top to bottom. The width is not that important.
If this doesn’t smooth up your action, you may have other issues where the cocking piece may be dragging, the follower may be dragging or the internals of the bolt are misaligned.
I had an issue with a Rem 700 VSF that the pin that holds the cocking piece to the firing pin assemble was not centred, it dragged as the bolt rotated, causing both heavy fall & lift.
It took me several attempts to figure out what the problem was, anyway, all things need to be considered & checked when things are tight for no apparent reason.
Cheers.
After many many cyclings, you can see where the high spots are polished off.
Do not use polish containing any grit, like those used for polishing paint. It WILL embed in the metal no matter if it says it doesn’t.
As to lugs that are rough, I lap them with fine valve grinding paste.
Disassemble the bolt, use a sharpie and colour the rear of the lugs and cycle open/close a few times with rearward finger pressure.
The lug that is wiped is the one you need to lap FIRST!
Lap this lug until contact is evident on the SECOND lug. Then continue until at least 75% contact is made on BOTH lugs.
Then I lap them both until I see 80-90% contact, which is a near full wipe across the entire lug surface from top to bottom. The width is not that important.
If this doesn’t smooth up your action, you may have other issues where the cocking piece may be dragging, the follower may be dragging or the internals of the bolt are misaligned.
I had an issue with a Rem 700 VSF that the pin that holds the cocking piece to the firing pin assemble was not centred, it dragged as the bolt rotated, causing both heavy fall & lift.
It took me several attempts to figure out what the problem was, anyway, all things need to be considered & checked when things are tight for no apparent reason.
Cheers.
group therapy
Gold $$ Contributor
just for what it is worth, I have two hall actions (M's). one I paid 650 for and the other was 1200 with a new hart ppc Barrel that came with a trigger and stock all put together
. I save up the money to but a custom action rifle then get it as opposed to getting a non custom and not waiting as long for the project. the customs are really nice and hold their value better. and a whole lot nicer shooting with. just my opinion. shoot well with whatever you get, what matters is that you are shooting.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
I have used metal polish in the raceways only on the rear bridge top & bottom and cycled the action in an evening of watching tv.
After many many cyclings, you can see where the high spots are polished off.
Do not use polish containing any grit, like those used for polishing paint. It WILL embed in the metal no matter if it says it doesn’t.
As to lugs that are rough, I lap them with fine valve grinding paste.
Disassemble the bolt, use a sharpie and colour the rear of the lugs and cycle open/close a few times with rearward finger pressure.
The lug that is wiped is the one you need to lap FIRST!
Lap this lug until contact is evident on the SECOND lug. Then continue until at least 75% contact is made on BOTH lugs.
Then I lap them both until I see 80-90% contact, which is a near full wipe across the entire lug surface from top to bottom. The width is not that important.
If this doesn’t smooth up your action, you may have other issues where the cocking piece may be dragging, the follower may be dragging or the internals of the bolt are misaligned.
I had an issue with a Rem 700 VSF that the pin that holds the cocking piece to the firing pin assemble was not centred, it dragged as the bolt rotated, causing both heavy fall & lift.
It took me several attempts to figure out what the problem was, anyway, all things need to be considered & checked when things are tight for no apparent reason.
Cheers.
Then what do you do about the headspace issue you created besides setting the barrel back or installing a new one?
Lapua40X
California Hunter Education Instructor
I have stripped a bolt and, concentrating only on the shaft portion behind the lugs, I have found this useful.
https://www.hyperion.sandvik.com/en...bn/cubic-boron-nitride-cbn/cbn-micron-powder/
I ALWAYS clean and rinse thoroughly with a good solvent when finished,paying special attention to machined holes and recesses in the body of the bolt..
I have also had some success with turning the bolt body on a lathe or a large drill press with oiled 1500 grit emery cloth.
Neither of these is quick but slower is superior to quicker when I'm removing material from a bolt body.
Again. I always clean the heqq out of it when I'm finished working with the polishing materials
I believe it's a critical step for my own safety.
https://www.hyperion.sandvik.com/en...bn/cubic-boron-nitride-cbn/cbn-micron-powder/
I ALWAYS clean and rinse thoroughly with a good solvent when finished,paying special attention to machined holes and recesses in the body of the bolt..
I have also had some success with turning the bolt body on a lathe or a large drill press with oiled 1500 grit emery cloth.
Neither of these is quick but slower is superior to quicker when I'm removing material from a bolt body.
Again. I always clean the heqq out of it when I'm finished working with the polishing materials
I believe it's a critical step for my own safety.
Last edited:
Headspace isn’t changed, you may take off a few ten thousands when lapping the lugs.
Even one thousandths isn’t going to change anything enough to worry about.
Most factory lugs are not square and even the recesses they fit into aren’t either.
Full contact isn’t necessary with the lugs, only the high spots are removed.
Cheers.
Someoldguy
I have handled a couple of Tikkas, and found them to be smooth as glass.
I do not think it is a lubricant issue, so much as a metallurgy issue.
Grease or oil can oil can only do so much.
You action manufacturers got any input on this?
YMMV
I do not think it is a lubricant issue, so much as a metallurgy issue.
Grease or oil can oil can only do so much.
You action manufacturers got any input on this?
YMMV
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.