Precision reloading advice for FTR

[Tony1320]

Hi guys I'm looking for advice to further my reloading techniques for FTR.

I'm currently full length sizing with Whidden non bushing die, bumping shoulders back .002, uniforming primer pocket with K&M tool, trimming with Forster 3-1 cutter, weighing powder with a Lyman digital 1500 scale

What is everyone thoughts on FL sizing vs Neck sizing and bushing or non bushing dies?

Would I notice a big improvement upgrading to a FX120i scale? I notice my scale drifts .1-.2 so I zero the scale every 4-5 rounds.

Would I notice a difference annealing my brass?

Thanks

 

[memilanuk]

F/L size, every time. Look up Wheeler Accuracy on YouTube, watch his videos on finding your seating depth and setting your sizing die. Bushing dies, yes. Annealing... probably not a limiting factor (yet) based on your other questions. FX-120i + AutoTrickler is a much, much better scale than the Lyman (or really any consumer-grade reloading scale). Get one (the scale). Add the AutoTrickler when funds become available.

 

[Mozella]

You post a list of brands and models. But more important than the brand is your technique. Consistency should be at the top of your list.

For example, the FX-120i will produce loads within .02gr without any thought or technique required. However, a Gem Pro 250 will, or at least might, produce nearly the same precision. The downside is that you must learn a special technique to cope with the problems built in to the Gem Pro. You have to MAKE it do the job while with the FX-120i you can simply LET it do the job. But no matter what scale you use, you need to use it so that it produces loads as consistent as you can make them within the limits of your equipment.

I anneal every time. I believe it helps even if the improvement at the target is too small to measure. If you're on a budget you can build a very accurate automatic annealing machine for $100 or so which functions better than many commercial versions. Google "Skip Design Annealing Machine".

Does neck turning help? I happen to think so but I also believe if you're going to turn you need a good piece of equipment not only for the purposes of doing an accurate job, but also so you don't go crazy during the process. My 21st Century lathe is wonderful; however, they're not giving them away. If something like this isn't in your budget at the moment, an alternative is to buy high quality brass and put off neck turning for a while.

Nearly all of us have budgetary constraints. Try to buy the best gear you can afford (or which you can justify) and then use it in the best possible way. Keep an eye on consistency and try to maximize bang-for-the-buck.

If you have a few extra dollars, you always have to ask yourself how to best spend your money. In your case, I would say start with a scale with more precision. If the FX-120i is out of range, consider the Gem Pro 250 and learn the little dance you need to perform in order to get good results. Hint: Don't count of trickling with the Gem Pro.

 

[T-shooter]

Set the shoulders back .001" instead of .002" as long as they chamber easily. Use a good F/L resizer like a Forster B/R and resize every time for consistency. I use the expander ball in mine and it does not effect runout since it floats a little in the die body. Neck turning would probably help consistent neck tension. If you turn, then you can have the neck portion of the resizing die honed to the proper size to prevent overworking the brass. My die reduced the necks to .004" under loaded size and the ball expands them back out to .002" under.

A better scale will help. A Gem Pro will get you +/- .02 grains 95% of the time. My FX-300i (same as an FX120i) will weigh the to exact same weight every time. I still spot check every few loads with a test weight about the same as my loads just to be sure. You can trickle with the GemPro but need to lift and reset the pan on the scale for the reading to correct itself. With a large grain powder like Varget, you can manually drop in a few kernels if you are close since they average .02 grain each.

 

[swadiver]

Another option for brass prep works outstanding for me. I use a Frankfort Arsenal hand depriming tool, wet tumble to clean the brass, Mike's Reloading Bench annealing machine (every time), Lee Collet die for neck sizing, and then bump the shoulders .015" with a Redding body die. Getting great results with Palma .308 brass for my F/TR reloading with this procedure