Pre fit barrel with nut

[Dgd6mm]

When installing a pre fit barrel at what position do you like the bolthandle to stop
at when checking with the no-go gauge? This is a right hand action. I have both gauges.

Thanks
Don Dunlap

 

[dsinfour]

Bolt should will close with some pressure on a go gauge and with same the same pressure not close on a no go gauge.. If new to head spacing a barrel do a youtube search. Sorry about the correction .

 

[Shawnba67]

Seems like if i just closes on the go, meaning some resistance it usually stops dead at about 2 o clockish on the no go.
This advice is worth what you paid for it! Good luck, once youve done a couple its tie your shoes easy.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Bolt should be closed in the fire position. If new to head spacing a barrel do a youtube search. later

Not correct

 

[Dgd6mm]

I should've stated in my post that I've been putting Savage barrels on close to fifteen years. I just thought I'd ask to get an idea of how some may set them on the tight side or on the looser side, not to get confused with closing on the no-go gauge. I usually set mine at 2 o'clock or 3 o'clock. dsinfor may have misread and thought I was asking about go gauge setting.

 

[dsinfour]

Thanks for correcting me about headspace my mistake... later

 

[swd]

As long as it’s your fun and you set your dies up for the proper bump it doesn’t really matter. But...

What I was taught from sever different people is with the bolt minus any parts that affect feel. The bolt should fall freely on the go or it’s too tight and it should never fall on a no go. Personally I say even light drag on a no go is too loose.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

No go should stop solid and not be able to close no way no how. The go should go. Of course if you want it a bit long for short dies and its for your use by all means put it like you like it

 

[memilanuk]

I definitely use a stripped bolt, just like I would for checking shoulder bump or seating depth ala the Wheeler method. No ejector, no wave washer, no rear bolt baffle, no cocking piece sleeve. For a long time I *didn't* do it this way - sometimes I didn't even bother to remove the ejector. I survived... but the completely stripped bolt gives a much better 'feel', with less variability in the results.

For my .308 Winchester barrels, I have a complete Forster National Match headspace gauge set in 0.001" increments between 1.630" and 1.638". You can definitely feel the difference between one step and the next with the bolt completely stripped like that. 1.630", the bolt handle drops like a rock. 1.631", drops with a hint of resistance. 1.632", stops about 1/4 of the way down (if that); *MIGHT* be able to force it (never tried). 1.633"... definitely not happening.

For the rest of my calibers that I only have GO/NO-GO gauges, or even with just a fired case and another with a layer of tape on the head... the same process applies, but I tend to screw the barrel down til I get a slight feeling of resistance, and then take up the 'slack' in the threads with the nut. After that, the stripped bolt should drop freely on the 'GO' gauge, but still not drop on the 'NO-GO'. If it does, start over.

Probably not anything significantly different than what the OP does, but he asked, so...

 

[RWO]

At the Savage factory a special GO gauge, ground .002" short, is inserted in the chamber and the barrel is screwed in until gauge hits bolt face. Then when nut is torqued to spec., the barrel moves forward enough to allow a standard GO gauge to fit. This according to some gun writer's story on a visit to Savage.

RWO

 

[Ggmac]

When installing a pre fit barrel at what position do you like the bolthandle to stop
at when checking with the no-go gauge? This is a right hand action. I have both gauges.

Thanks
Don Dunlap

Don , if it's a new to you cartridge, I would set using the go gauge , based on what your dies are telling you . Resize a case and make sure it'll push the shoulder back as far as you need , and use that as determining where to set headspace . I agree with what Dusty said , no go means it will not even get to the vertical cuts in the receiver /bolt , it may start on the ramps but not any further.

 

[Dgd6mm]

Gary, this is a 6br Criterion on a Origin action. Feeds and ejects like butter. I put it together for PRS. It's headspaced perfectly. Boy is it accurate.