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Power Neck Turner Idea

243Lapua

Silver $$ Contributor
Thinking of getting one of this units to convert it into a power neck turner. I think it is possible. Its got the correct RPM's as the units that usually sell at a higher price. Shaft can be threaded to accept chuck. For anyone who wants to build one and not spend a lot of money and is a hobbiest. Any Idea's

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351174706498?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I use a Dayton Right angle gear motor. I put a rheostat for a ceiling fan on so I can control the RPM's. I first used a regular one for a light but it didn't have enough amps to run it. My buddy said to get one for a ceiling fan and it worked. Been using it for years. Matt
 
I need to get in touch with a friend who is an electrician and figure out the AC to DC rectification. It should not be that hard to do.
 
243Lapua said:
I need to get in touch with a friend who is an electrician and figure out the AC to DC rectification. It should not be that hard to do.

It appears that this motor has "brushes" and that indicates that it may well be a universal motor. One that will run on AC or DC. There were tons of these "surplus" motors available back when I was a kid and many of them were just run on a cord "straight from the wall socket.

One thing you WON'T like about it is that it will be a lot more noisy than a straight AC induction motor. Think the same noise as a cordless drill or shop vacuum, versus a bench grinder or small drill press.

Even if it does require pure "DC", a simple bridge rectifier for less than $5 will give you more than enough DC voltage. Here's one for even less:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/GBPC1204/?qs=JTz9%252bBhUhk0vvp5ExLQIaQ%3D%3D&kpid=176724&gclid=Cj0KEQjwkIurBRDwoZfi1bGCxocBEiQAmcs-egH6COWMkGNRnh5HsYrgQQB33AvY8ZvkGUT4V_F35FAaAm6x8P8HAQ

Hook the AC leads to the unmarked tabs and take your DC from the + and - tabs. 12 amps should be more than enough to run this motor -------------but it will still be noisy.
 
amlevin said:
243Lapua said:
I need to get in touch with a friend who is an electrician and figure out the AC to DC rectification. It should not be that hard to do.

It appears that this motor has "brushes" and that indicates that it may well be a universal motor. One that will run on AC or DC.

One thing you WON'T like about it is that it will be a lot more noisy than a straight AC induction motor. Think the same noise as a cordless drill versus a bench grinder or small drill press.

The gears on these moters are cut worm gears - very quiet - almost totally silent.
 
Hi,
I built one out of a Harbor Freight wet /dry sharpener (About $50.00 with 25% off coupon). Had a Friend adapt shaft to fit universal Lyman Trimmer chuck about $16.00 bucks from Lyman. Works like a charm even though it is a LITTLE BIG. Here is a link to mine:

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3820258.msg36256090#msg36256090

Link to Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-wet-6-inch-dry-grinder-35098.html

PM if you have any questions
Safe shooting
Doug
 
CatShooter said:
amlevin said:
243Lapua said:
I need to get in touch with a friend who is an electrician and figure out the AC to DC rectification. It should not be that hard to do.

It appears that this motor has "brushes" and that indicates that it may well be a universal motor. One that will run on AC or DC.

One thing you WON'T like about it is that it will be a lot more noisy than a straight AC induction motor. Think the same noise as a cordless drill versus a bench grinder or small drill press.

The gears on these moters are cut worm gears - very quiet - almost totally silent.

There's still the noise of the "brush type" motor. Can't eliminate that part.
 
amlevin said:
CatShooter said:
amlevin said:
243Lapua said:
I need to get in touch with a friend who is an electrician and figure out the AC to DC rectification. It should not be that hard to do.

It appears that this motor has "brushes" and that indicates that it may well be a universal motor. One that will run on AC or DC.

One thing you WON'T like about it is that it will be a lot more noisy than a straight AC induction motor. Think the same noise as a cordless drill versus a bench grinder or small drill press.

The gears on these moters are cut worm gears - very quiet - almost totally silent.

There's still the noise of the "brush type" motor. Can't eliminate that part.

I have brush AC/DC motors, and they are nothing to be bothered about. You can run one and barely hear it... I have one in the recprocating fan in my living room.

... compaired to those damn electric screwdrivers that will wake the neighborhood.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261595815246?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

After so much searching I ended up buying this new toy for my neck turning. A minor modification so I can attach it to my bench and it should function properly. There is another brand that might work also. Search for Talboys stirrers.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261888152992?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
How critical is the speed? I use a Foster neck turner. I took the handle off and chucked up a 1/2" cordless drill on the shaft. I load the case in the collet as you have to anyway, and instead of turning the crank handle I simply hold the drill and squeeze the trigger. I have the drill in 1st gear and apply light pressure and TA-DA! It turns a bit faster than you could turn it by hand but the cutter does not heat up and i can see no difference in the case necks. My limited knowledge of what a universal motor is that it is probably what's called a compound motor, which uses brushes and commutator to achieve the polarity changes to see speeds other than a division of the 3600 polarity changes in AC current. An electric drill is an example of that type of motor but it still requires a speed control. If the spindle speed is already what you need, and it runs on 120v than your good to go.
 
The reason why I was looking into this was because I just got tired of using the handheld drill. I wanted something stationary that I could bolt down to my bench. I wanted continous use out of the unit at the same speed compared to a hand held drill. I was using a Dewalt rechargeable drill and had to recharge batteries often. I wanted the rpm to remain constant so I bought this gadget. It should help out alot and speed up my neck turing,primer pocket uniforming and flashhole deduring. I will run it at the lowest revolutions on the pulleys. Trying to keep it below 200 rpm. My rechargeable drill was 500 rpm ay its max speed and would not heat up the brass or the mandrel when cutting. So this unit should work out nice.
 
Best speed run -170 rpm

fast speed is a bitch on heat, Lee sizing wax is hard to beat as a lube...take that to the bank!!!

1/2" hand drills with the little screw in the trigger are best on a variable speed neck turner down to a slow RPM if you DO NOT want to spend a lot of money.

Now, to find a neck turner with a long mandrel where you can grip it securely in a drill or drill press...that extra 1" of material that sticks out of the back of the neck turner is more precious than diamonds!

Marquart was the last company that make long mandrels for neck turners for this application. Azz backwards thinking from a lot of neck turner companies...
 
Joe R said:
FYI here's a video of my Gracey Neck Shaver for those that don't want to go through the trouble of building one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8326uVudvY

Joe

Joe, do you have to expand the necks before you use the "neck shaver"? How consistent is the neck wall thickness after you "shave" the necks? It does not look like it follows a mandrel, which would worry me about neck thickness inconsistency.
 
Hi Erik,
I need to do a better video and show more detail.

I do expand the necks with a Lyman M die. I did have to polish the mandrel of the M die down to the proper size so that it compliments the neck shaver mandrel. The neck shaving is very consistent. The case neck does slide on the mandrel and is stopped by the shoulder of the case. I have a tube micrometer that measures to .001 and the cases seem very consistent, but I really could use a micrometer that goes to .0001 and then I would have a better answer for you.

I'm sure someone with your skills could improve the neck shaver. A different case holder is required for different calibers. Gracey makes a case holder that must fit all .308 cases and there is a little play there that you could improve by making a custom one just like you did for the Giraud case trimmer. I'm sure you would find other ways to improve it, but I don't have your skills and smarts much less the tools.

For now the neck shaver is working well enough to give me decent groups (see below). But just an hour ago I had a breakthrough in my reloading process that is giving me .0005 to .001 runout, so if I keep whittling things down there maybe hope for me yet.

Kindest regards,

Joe
 

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Joe R said:
Hi Erik,
I need to do a better video and show more detail.

I do expand the necks with a Lyman M die. I did have to polish the mandrel of the M die down to the proper size so that it compliments the neck shaver mandrel. The neck shaving is very consistent. The case neck does slide on the mandrel and is stopped by the shoulder of the case. I have a tube micrometer that measures to .001 and the cases seem very consistent, but I really could use a micrometer that goes to .0001 and then I would have a better answer for you.

I'm sure someone with your skills could improve the neck shaver. A different case holder is required for different calibers. Gracey makes a case holder that must fit all .308 cases and there is a little play there that you could improve by making a custom one just like you did for the Giraud case trimmer. I'm sure you would find other ways to improve it, but I don't have your skills and smarts much less the tools.

For now the neck shaver is working well enough to give me decent groups (see below). But just an hour ago I had a breakthrough in my reloading process that is giving me .0005 to .001 runout, so if I keep whittling things down there maybe hope for me yet.

Kindest regards,

Joe

I would be very interested in your results after you get a .0001" tube micrometer.
 
ackleyman II said:
........Now, to find a neck turner with a long mandrel where you can grip it securely in a drill or drill press...that extra 1" of material that sticks out of the back of the neck turner is more precious than diamonds! .......

My K&M protrudes far enough for me to chuck it into a Golden Goose 1/2" #2MT keyless on my lathe. Just going from memory, it might extend 1/4-5/16....... Because of the way the chuck is made, I'm able to get a very adequate grip on it.
 

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