Powder measure musings: Back to the future?

[AlNyhus]

There's some discussion on powder measures, so for better or worse...here's some stuff I've found through the years.

I've had most of the top units but the one that goes with me and hangs on my loading box is a well worn Redding 3BR. I've tweaked it some and massaged it a bit but it is rock solid day in and day out.

But the absolute best for pure accurate metering is an old micrometer Belding and Mull. I've given it a good blue printing and improved a few things on it. I love these things and have 3 of them at this time. They are slow compared to a 'dump' style measure but still faster than any electronics I've worked with. I made a mounting block for my loading box and used it matches and at the range.

Here's one test I did with it with H4198....weights were verified by two electronic scales and one beam scale. For stick powders (IMR4320, IMR4831, etc.) it's really nice as it cuts the kernels cleanly.

Good shootin'. -Al

 

[Fotheringill]

THAT data is pretty impressive. I wouldn't want to do it with Varget, but I get pretty close to that with a 3BR 3 using CFE 223.

 

[LCazador]

There's some discussion on powder measures, so for better or worse...here's some stuff I've found through the years.

I've had most of the top units but the one that goes with me and hangs on my loading box is a well worn Redding 3BR. I've tweaked it some and massaged it a bit but it is rock solid day in and day out.

But the absolute best for pure accurate metering is an old micrometer Belding and Mull. I've given it a good blue printing and improved a few things on it. I love these things and have 3 of them at this time. They are slow compared to a 'dump' style measure but still faster than any electronics I've worked with. I made a mounting block for my loading box and used it matches and at the range.

Here's one test I did with it with H4198....weights were verified by two electronic scales and one beam scale. For stick powders (IMR4320, IMR4831, etc.) it's really nice as it cuts the kernels cleanly.

Good shootin'. -Al

Al, I see you have the overtightened screws cracked glass window, LOL! I put nylon washers under the screws that hold the glass and it never cracked again. Great powder measure.

 

[jimmymac]

That's awesome. Any pictures of the inner workings? I haven't been in this long enough to see a measure like that one.

 

[johara1]

That's awesome. Any pictures of the inner workings? I haven't been in this long enough to see a measure like that one.

You come up here and you can take it home and play with it. They are the best measure for H 4831 going....... jim

 

[jimmymac]

I'll take you up on that! Thanks Jim.

 

[johara1]

You are welcome sir...... jim

 

[AlNyhus]

Al, I see you have the overtightened screws cracked glass window, LOL! I put nylon washers under the screws that hold the glass and it never cracked again. Great powder measure.

Yeah...common problem with these. I have some new windows made from Plexiglass that work well and don't build static. A small fiber washer or nylon one as you've done works great, don't they?

There's a NIB one under my bench. -Al

 

[LCazador]

NIB! keep it that way. You can maybe donate to Bench Rest Shooter's hall of fame! LOL! I had the good fortune of being mentored by a bench rest shooter and at the age of 16 I owned a Herter's press with a Herter's full length die that had been set to bump my 222 cases 1 thou. I had a Wilson chamber type seating die, a home made neck turner made by my mentor, and a Lachmiller primer seater(one at time with small lever). My scale was a Lyman and the powder measure of course my old Belding & Mull. My mentor also made a headspace guage for me and a seating depth guage from a barrel stub. Little did I know these would be become the baseline tools and techniques for all my future reloading!

 

[Mikemci]

I love stories like yours LCazador!!
It sounds like you have had a great mentor and apprenticeship.

 

[LCazador]

I love stories like yours LCazador!!
It sounds like you have had a great mentor and apprenticeship.

I was fortunate back then to have started out with the best and now that I have the opportunity to mentor, I am not afraid to lose my ass to one of my students. I've got two right now that want to take me to the cleaners!! LOL! Thanks Mike.

 

[sean68]

It's a funny coincidence that this topic comes up today. I just got home from eating dinner with my parents and we were talking about Belding and Mull equipment, which comes up every now and then because my stepfather is Nathan Hale Mull III, the grandson of Nathan Hale Mull who started B and M with George Belding in 1916. I too have a very old B and M powder measure that I have used for 35 years after Nate Mull Jr (my step grandfather) had used it for a lifetime of reloading. It still works fine.

I use it for all my benchrest reloading. For my long range stuff I will throw onto an FX120 a grain low and trickle up to the kernel, but for everything else, I just throw right out of the B and M.

We also have other B and M products including a 2.5X hunting scope on an 03-A3 with an apple wood stock used by Nate JR at one point in the 1960's to kill 18 deer out of a box of 20 reloads with 150gr bronze points. We also have a 22lr 1885 Highwall that has the B & M target model scope that was a 3X. Both scopes still work fine and the Highwall really shoots well. I have a worn looking Colt 1911 from Nate Mull that was made in 1913 that was supposedly used to develop products for B and M in the very early days. I still shoot that also and it functions like new. We have other items like cleaning rods, bullet pullers, bullet molds, beam scales, manuals etc and everything was good quality stuff.

The Great Depression bankrupted B and M and the other business ventures of Nate Mull, and he drank himself to death in 1935, but others continued on with B and M for a long time and they are still around in some capacity.

 

[STS]

I have 2 of those measures that are dedicated to my .17 and .20 caliber stuff. They are superbly accurate measures. I have a pristine brass powder hopper for one of these if any of you owners have a measure needing one.

 

[jcarpen]

Mr Nyhus- could you elaborate a little on the blueprinting modifications you’ve done on yours? I also have a nib one I’ve stuck back, but the one I use primarily has been my go to measure for close to 50 years. I’ve tested it against a Harrels and can’t tell any difference in accuracy between the two. I ljust like the way the B&M operates and I’m more used to the micrometer dial readings than clicks.

 

[Herzo]

I have used my Lyman 55 since shortly after I began reloading some 45 years ago always in conjunction with a trickler when I wanted to throw precise loads.
A number of years ago, I bought a box full of reloading miscellany and among the various items was a Herters model 40. It is now my go-to for anything up to 35 grains or so. The ability to make fine adjustments is great and it will throw as consistently as I can ascertain using my Ohaus 5-10. (I have yet to find an electronic scale that I can have confidence in)

 

[AlNyhus]

Mr Nyhus- could you elaborate a little on the blueprinting modifications you’ve done on yours?

The sliding block and base are made perfectly flat either by lapping or a light milling. The pivoting loading arm gets an Oilite bushing and a new pivot pin. The holding chamber gets a nice deburring while maintaining a sharp exit at the bottom where it slides across the base.

As a bit of trivia...if you come across one with an aluminum hopper, don't hesitate to get it. Aluminum was used during the brass shortage of WW2. There's several on ebay right now.

Just sayin'.... -Al

 

[jcarpen]

Thanks. Mine’s pretty well lapped by now lol. Do you use the original spring? My spring wore out from metal fatigue a few years ago and I had to replace it. As someone mentioned on another thread, they really shine with light charges of flake powders like Bullseye.although I use mine mostly for BR loads.

 

[Hondo64d]

There's some discussion on powder measures, so for better or worse...here's some stuff I've found through the years.

I've had most of the top units but the one that goes with me and hangs on my loading box is a well worn Redding 3BR. I've tweaked it some and massaged it a bit but it is rock solid day in and day out.

But the absolute best for pure accurate metering is an old micrometer Belding and Mull. I've given it a good blue printing and improved a few things on it. I love these things and have 3 of them at this time. They are slow compared to a 'dump' style measure but still faster than any electronics I've worked with. I made a mounting block for my loading box and used it matches and at the range.

Here's one test I did with it with H4198....weights were verified by two electronic scales and one beam scale. For stick powders (IMR4320, IMR4831, etc.) it's really nice as it cuts the kernels cleanly.

Good shootin'. -Al

I tried a Belding and Mull and liked it so much it got me looking for a little more refined modernized version of the same. This led me to a Montana Vintage Arms powder measure. It is just a little more refined version of a Belding and Mull. It does pretty well. With ball powders, consistently less than .1 gr extreme spread. With stick powders not quite as good, but still pretty darn good.

The best I have found with stick powders is, believe it or not, the Lee Deluxe Perfect Powder Measure.

John

https://montanavintagearms.com/product/reloading/black-powder-measure/

https://leeprecision.com/deluxe-perfect-powder-measure.html