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Powder Measure for Varget

Now that I am shooting 6BR, I plan on reloading almost exclusively with Varget powder. I need to buy a new powder measure and I understand that certain units,e.g. Harrel's) aren't very accurate with stick powders like Varget. Any suggestions on a good powder measure for Varget??? Thanks!
 
I have a Lyman, two Hollywoods, two SAECOs and a Harrell. When you get above a certain grain size, you have to use a trickler after throwing a light charge or buy a Chargemaster. Don't look for miracles from any measure with Varget.
 
3jaysdad: I find that any rotating drum-type measure will be difficult with any but the very smallest extruded powders. Anytime the cutting edge of the drum hesitates, and requires extra force to rotate, that charge will vary from the ones that happened to turn smoothly. I use the RCBS Uniflow only for the occasional use of ball powders/ works fine for H335, one of my favorites for the AR-15. For N133, N135, Varget, and even H322 I weigh them "by hand" using the RCBS 505 beam scale. Can weigh 20 charges in approx. 13 minutes. Time consuming I know. The other alternative would be one of the electronic measures, as reviewed on this site. Incidently, I tried Varget in all 3 of my 6BRs', and they all produce smaller groups, for me) using N133 for the lighter bullets, max. 70 gr.), and N135 for the 85 & 87 gr. There are those who claim VitaVouri powders are more consistant from lot to lot, when compared to Varget: I know the VV does seem to burn cleaner. Even at that Varget remains one of my favorite powders, especially for the 223s'.
 
3jaysdad,
I have a Redding 3BR powder thrower and I only worked this out myself a few nights ago when reloading for my 223 with Varget. If you work the powder thrower lever real slow it drops very accurate loads. In fact when I started doing it this way I droped spot on loads.
Pete
 
The only way to get consistent loads with Varget is to weigh them. I have a Harrell's deluxe BR measure with roller bearings and it won't throw Varget consistently, so I weigh every charge on a Denver Instruments MXX123. Stick powders just won't throw worth a damn.
As to VV540 vs Varget, I've found the VV to be more temperature sensitive as the temperature increases, so I use Varget. Some guys have had good success with Reloader 15, but again it just wouldn't work for me.

Danny
 
Thanks for the great replies. Coincidently, I just ordered an MX-123 scale the other day. I guess if I am using Varget, the strategy is to buy a decent inexpensive measure,Lee/RCBS), throw a low charge, and trickle up to the target weight with the help of an electronic scale rather than drop alot of $$ for a high end measure.
 
Yep, throw a charge a little low, then with a pinch of powder between thumb and fore finger drop a grain or two at a time. Once you get on to it things go surprisingly fast. I used to use a trickler, but the thumb and fore finger approach goes faster.

Danny
 
For trickeling "up", I have always used a 300 Magnum rifle case, with a spent primer seated upside-down to seal-off the flash hole. Fill the case about 3/4 full, and I roll it between my fingertips, to trickle, as little as 1 kernal at a time. Rate of trickle can be controlled by the angle that it's held: tilted slightly mouth down, faster trickle, level a medium rate, and with the mouth on a slight "Up" angle, just that 1 kernal at a time. Can do 30 to 40 charges before I have to add more powder. The RCBS type trickler was always getting in the way of the powder pan. Works for me, for 48 yrs. now, but I'm still learning.
 
I have tried most of the measures made. There are no measures that will throw more accurately than +/_.1 grain.

I bought a RCBS 1500 Charge Master about 6 months ago and would not trade it for all the other measures on the market. For the Price it is the best hands down.

As for an inexpensive powder dribbler I take two of the larger pill bottles,2oz). I fill one with lead shot and use it as the base. The other I drill a pair of 5/16 holes 180 degree apart with one a 1/4 incher higher up form the bottom. I mix up some fiberglass resin and fill up the tilted bottle untilthe surface of the fiberglass is just below the holes in the bottle sides.

I get a 2016 0r 2020 aluminum arrow,non ferrus) shaft and cut a piece 5 inches long. I the debur the ID on one end and 1 1/2 inches from the other end I drill a 1/8" hole through one wall of the alluminum tube. I put a small O ring around the tube and slide the tube through the holes in the bottle with the deburred end on the lower side. I then place another O ring around the other end of the tube.

I glue the bottom of the two bottles together with the bottle tops on opposing ends.

This makes a mighty fine powder tumbler at little or no cost.

Rustystud
 
I just stumbled on your post, awesome idea, never thought of it, I have been pinching kernals and dropping them one at a time for a while using this electronic scale and it went pretty fast, I am going to try your method now, thanks!
 
Rustystud, by chance did you have the opportunity to try out a Quick Measure powder measure? I use them and have found them to be quite good with most powders. They are quite a different design, and I'm not sure it is the measure for everyone. Requires more time & patience than others. I am not a competitor, but try to create very accurate loads for my hobby target shooting. Lincoln log powder is a challenge for most every measure. Quick Measure uses a small diameter vertical, cylindrical, plunger with a window. I have had good luck with powders for the .222 Rem, H322, H4198, N133. IMR4198 more of a challenge of course. My only source of reference is an RCBS Uniflow, and checking charge consistency with a scale. Not trying to convert anyone, just conversation for comparison.

Peter.
 

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