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Polishing a blued Remington 700 receiver

I have a blued Remington 700 action that I would like to have match my stainless steel barrel. The action is currently at my gunsmith getting a barrel spun on it and he has quoted me $60 an hour to polish it for me. However, I work at a cerakote shop on the side and have access to a sand blaster, would it be best to have him do the work for me or when it gets back, sand blast the action and clean it up with the sandpaper?
 
With the action spinning in a lathe it should take less than an hour to polish it. Using a sand blaster would only make it take longer, you want to make it smoother not ruff it up. You could do it your self just start with 180 or 220 grit sand paper and sand the action from front to back all the way around. It will take the bluing off and when the whole action has the same scratches going in the same direction then you use 320 grit then 400 then 600 then 800, 100, 1500, then 2000 grit but make sure you sand it in the same direction front to back the long way and you can make the action as shiny as you want.
 
JRS said:
Bypass the sandpaper advise :o

The OP is asking for a Polished look, not a stripped look.
Jason's advise is the most widely used and proven way to polish an action and/or barrel.
Donovan
 
dmoran said:
JRS said:
Bypass the sandpaper advise :o

The OP is asking for a Polished look, not a stripped look.
Jason's advise is the most widely used and proven way to polish an action and/or barrel.
Donovan
Once the blueing is removed, it can easily be polished on a buffer. Sandpaper introduces scratches. By using coarse to fine sandpaper, the scratches aren't being removed, but rather more metal being removed to reach the depth of the scratches themselves.
 
Depends on how polished I can get the reliever, if not we have some Satin Aluminum in the shop that looks pretty good as a stainless substitute
 
I have used electroless nickel in the past. I initially used it as an experiment to tighten the bolt to race fit but it lays on very evenly and looks decent with stainless. I also used it to "French Gray" shotgun receivers by blasting the bright nickel with very fine AO. The Dasher I am shooting now has been wearing it for 20 years. It's tough stuff if done right.
 
dmoran said:
A buffer.....wow
Better plan on lots of rouge and pads !.!.!
You don't use rouge. Rouge is usually used on aluminum actions. You use a compounding polish. Ask Kelbly's and Dr. Marsh how often they have to change the wheels on their buffers. If you know how to use a buffer, and are using the correct buffing wheels, you aren't going to be wearing them out any time soon.
 
Blued actions are usually not stainless, unless I'm missing something here if you you leave it in the raw it's not going to match the barrel for very long no matter how much oil you putt on it. You need some kind of coating to prevent the carbon steel from oxidizing.
 
JRS said:
You don't use rouge. Rouge is usually used on aluminum actions. You use a compounding polish. Ask Kelbly's and Dr. Marsh how often they have to change the wheels on their buffers. If you know how to use a buffer, and are using the correct buffing wheels, you aren't going to be wearing them out any time soon.

Your off a mile on buffer rouge, just as you you are on how actions and barrels are commonly polished.
- Green rouge is for crome-moly, stainless-steel and other hard metals
- Red rouge is for gold, silver, brass, copper, and nickel
- White rouge is for aluminum, as well as gold, silver, brass, and copper
For barrels and actions, first they have to brought to a polished state, before a buffer wheel will having any lasting effects. And if your speaking of abrasive wheels, that is a form of sanding (key word being abrasive) and a separate subject in its self.
 
dmoran said:
JRS said:
You don't use rouge. Rouge is usually used on aluminum actions. You use a compounding polish. Ask Kelbly's and Dr. Marsh how often they have to change the wheels on their buffers. If you know how to use a buffer, and are using the correct buffing wheels, you aren't going to be wearing them out any time soon.

Your off a mile on buffer rouge, just as you you are on how actions and barrels are commonly polished.
- Green rouge is for crome-moly, stainless-steel and other hard metals
- Red rouge is for gold, silver, brass, copper, and nickel
- White rouge is for aluminum, as well as gold, silver, brass, and copper
For barrels and actions, first they have to brought to a polished state, before a buffer wheel will having any lasting effects. And if your speaking of abrasive wheels, that is a form of sanding (key word being abrasive) and a separate subject in its self.
I don't recall saying anything about the color of rouge Donovan ::) Nor am I referring to abrasive wheels or buffing compound. Do you know what a flapper wheel is Donovan? You have to use the correct wheels. You aren't going to bring a piece of steel to a polished state with a wheel designed for buffing. I've probably polished more aluminum and stainless steel than you have ever had in your hands ;)
 
JRS said:
You aren't going to bring a piece of steel to a polished state with a wheel designed for buffing. I've probably polished more aluminum and stainless steel than you have ever had in your hands ;)
Way-way back in yesteryear, I worked at a manufacturing plant that produced Cryogenic equipment for laboratories. 304 stn.stl. was used extensively and at the time a mirror-like finish was desirable by the customer.To get that high polish, buffing wheels and green jewelers rouge was used. You could spot the mechanic who had buffing room duty by his green tinted hair and face.
 

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