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Polished Barrel Removal/Installation

What is the recommended way to remove/install polished barrels without marring them? I have a Brownells barrel vise with aluminum bushings but have never used it and have never seen a polished barrel removed or installed.

Also, what is the recommended torque for re-installation? This will be in a Borden Rimrock BRMXD action.

TIA

Ken
 
I don't know about a Brownell but a Farrell works good.

Not so much worried about the Brownells vise holding the barrel secure. Just don't want to dent or scratch the polished barrel. Since aluminum is softer than steel or stainless steel, is that all I need? - or is something like leather wrapped around the barrel required?

Ken
 
Seriously. Use the cardboard toilet paper roll. Slice it long ways to make it fit so it does not overlap and then make sure vice is tight ...real tight, and then a quick motion with action wrench and it should break free
 
I make my barrel vise jaws out of glued up, stacked 3/4" plywood sheets to make a 3" cube. I drill through the face grain for the largest barrel dia. and then epoxy bed the barrel to the block. After epoxy cure, knock the block off the barrel and saw in two on the hole dia. Paint the epoxy surface with a rosin lacquer made from powdered rosin dissolved in alcohol or lacquer thinner. After it dries you are ready to remove any barrel without marring. The laminated plywood block is very strong and will not split or crush with reasonable pressure ( under 3 tons) I have removed many barrels, factory and custom and have never damaged the finish. It doesn't require a lot of vice pressure because the fit is perfect.

RWO
 
I use an piece of oak that fits my vice 2 x 4 x X, drill a hole the same diameter as the barrel, cut a 1/8 in. slot through the center making 2 haves, Put a heavy coating of Brownells powdered rosin, and clamp solid. This has worked for me. clean resin off with WD40.
 
I use an piece of oak that fits my vice 2 x 4 x X, drill a hole the same diameter as the barrel, cut a 1/8 in. slot through the center making 2 haves, Put a heavy coating of Brownells powdered rosin, and clamp solid. This has worked for me. clean resin off with WD40.

I do the same, except I substitute powdered sugar for the rosin.
 
Thanks all for the good suggestions. It will be awhile before I need to swap out barrels but now I have some ideas to work with. Glad I didn't just blindly clamp the polished barrel up in the aluminum bushings and twist away. Always pays to ask people that have done it before if you don't know.

Ken
 
I use an piece of oak that fits my vice 2 x 4 x X, drill a hole the same diameter as the barrel, cut a 1/8 in. slot through the center making 2 haves, Put a heavy coating of Brownells powdered rosin, and clamp solid. This has worked for me. clean resin off with WD40.
Up
 
One wrap of copy paper and your Brownells barrel vice. Tighten all four vice screws down tight, I use a 1 foot cheater pipe on the Allen wrench.
 
One wrap of copy paper and your Brownells barrel vice. Tighten all four vice screws down tight, I use a 1 foot cheater pipe on the Allen wrench.

Man - when you say tighten it down, you're not kidding! Good tip

I'll be using a PMA Action Wrench for Remington 700 and clones (mine is a Borden BRMDX). As I understand it, the best technique is to clamp the barrel up nice and tight and insert the action wrench into the action as far as it will go. Next, put a 5/8 inch socket on the protruding end of the action wrench attached to a reasonable long cheater bar and give the the cheater bar a shape hit in the counterclockwise direction to spin the action loose on the barrel threads.

There is a slight amount of play when the action wrench is inserted into the action. Is this normal?

Ken
 

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