Please help me validate what caused my Kriss Vector to not fire

[MrAceJD]

I took my 10mm Gen 2 Kriss V carbine to the range last week. Gun was cleaned prior to the outing. It functioned flawlessly for the first 200 rounds. I used a mix of American Eagle and Sig Sauer 10mm ammo, with some Sellier and Bellot ammo mixed in I think.

The issue that began to occur is I would load a new magazine (same mag used the entire time at the range), I would chamber the first round, and fire it. The next round would chamber. I would pull the trigger, but no bang. No fire...

I dropped the mag, cleared the unfired round from the rifle, insert the mag, chambered the top round, fired it, and then the same thing would happen again. The next round that would feed would not fire. I would repeat the entire process and the same thing would happen.

I suppose this might fall into the category of a light primer strike, but unsure. I feel like it was around the time I switched from boxes of American Eagle 10mm to Sig Sauer 10mm ammo, but not 100% on that assumption.

Instruction manual says this could be a fouling of the firing pin, but if that's the case, why would the one round go bang that I chambered the first time but on cycling the next round would not go bang?

I was about ready to drop $150 on a new bold with firing pin assembly, but now I am thinking that may be an impulsive waste of money.

Could it really be the case that fouling after a couple hundred rounds caused this?

The bolt looks fine, firing pin seems to work correctly upon inspection.

I was shooting a .45 ACP Kriss side by side with it and the problem never happened with the 45.

I am trying to convince myself that the problem is related to the convergence of using Sig ammo with some fouling but I can't rationalize why I could always get the first round to go off.

Thanks for any help!


PS - gun is pretty new, less than 700 rounds through it.

 

[Shawnba67]

I got no help other than I agree that I would think a fouled pin would be less reliable on first round also.
Could the action be failing to cycle far enough to reset? I know 10mm ammo falls anywhere from this is just 40SW to Jesus this is hot!

 

[Pres100]

When you cleaned it before the range was it disassembled prior to cleaning and then reassembled?

Maybe something not reassembled to spec?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I bet youre short stroking some light ammo and got some gunk somewhere slowing it up. Thats why when you control the bolt it works

 

[lawrence97]

I bet it’s got some gunk built up and it’s probably not returning the bolt to the fully closed position after firing the first round. Try adding some lube or clean it.

 

[JMayo]

Make sure it's going into battery fully ...

 

[MrAceJD]

When you cleaned it before the range was it disassembled prior to cleaning and then reassembled?

Maybe something not reassembled to spec?

Yes - it was reassembled.

 

[ebb]

Diagnose the problem before spending money on something that may not need changing. Like Dusty says eliminate the ammo first. Does it malfunction with only one type of ammo or all types? If it does it with all types of ammo, it may be the gun. I think that Kriss may be able to help if the ammo is proven to be a nonissue.

 

[RegionRat]

I suppose this might fall into the category of a light primer strike, but unsure. I feel like it was around the time I switched from boxes of American Eagle 10mm to Sig Sauer 10mm ammo, but not 100% on that assumption.

Instruction manual says this could be a fouling of the firing pin, but if that's the case, why would the one round go bang that I chambered the first time but on cycling the next round would not go bang?

(If you ever find yourself in a position where you are debugging a gun that has a failure to fire, try to save any (or at least some) rounds that want click-no-bang for examination.)

1) First, we need to make sure that second round that failed to fire was all the way in battery.

2) Did you examine the primer condition when you cleared the gun to start over? If this continues, save one in that condition to show your gunsmith or to photograph to show Kriss.

3) Next test, load 1 round into the mag, then chamber and fire it. Did the bolt lock back okay?

4) Then load just 2 rounds, fire the first and before you try to pull the trigger the second time, note the position of the bolt in detail. Is it completely closed? If not, stop, if it is in battery test by pulling the trigger. Does the bolt lock back?

5) This time, assuming there was no failure to fire in step 4, fully charge the magazine and try again, with a pause before the second shot to see if the bolt is all the way in battery before you pull the trigger. Then watch each shot.

Always make sure your magazine is completely seated and if you have any safety or full auto switches, that those are not left part way between settings.

Personally, I saw many folks who accidentally activated the controls on the Kriss because they are too near the grips. They are a novel action and decent in full auto, so worth learning to live with the quirks if that is your game.

Odds are that unless you improperly assembled the gun last time and this time you didn't, the problem will repeat. However, you now have the answer to the first questions Kriss or any gunsmith will want to know.

Sometimes, the difference between steps 4 and 5 are the magazines and ammo not playing well with the gun.

If you fail step 3, your ammo and springs don't get along. If step 2 is the problem, you will need to have a sample or photo ready.

With just the clean bbl, try the "plunk test" with samples of that ammo. Note any that fail to drop into place. A plunk test is where you use the actual bbl as a chamber gage to make sure the ammo fits.

Some examples I have run from brand new, needed a break in and to be run fairly clean and wet to start, however 700 rounds is more than enough to where this rig should have settled down. Be sure you know how to clean and lube before you test again, and make sure your ammo passes that plunk test before too.

Good Luck.

 

[spudgun]

This reminds me of a situation about 1 yr ago when some of my customers were complaining about a 9mm ammo that we were selling.

Customers complaint was what looked light light primer stirkes with a striker fired pistol.

Come to find out after a customer gave me 6 boxes of ammo to dispose of he was right.

Looking at the primers of the ammo I could see that some were a different color than the others.

I contacted the manufacture of the ammo and they wanted the lot numbers on the boxes in question.

After the second phone call they admitted that some rifle primer had gotten into the production line and they replaced all 6 boxes with new ammo.

Once receiving the new ammo I contacted the customer and gave him the replacement ammo.

It can happen.