Pillar Bedding Re Visited

[centershot]

I was watching the Richard Franklin article on pillar bedding, He does the pillars and the bedding in one application. Does anyone do the pillars first and then bed the action? It would seem easier to just slop all of the bedding compound down and get it over with. Also, he wraps the action and stock together with electrical tape. Are there other methods that you use?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I was watching the Richard Franklin article on pillar bedding, He does the pillars and the bedding in one application. Does anyone do the pillars first and then bed the action? It would seem easier to just slop all of the bedding compound down and get it over with. Also, he wraps the action and stock together with electrical tape. Are there other methods that you use?

On aluminum pillars i do them first so i can take the tops back off them during the final bedding

 

[GenePoole]

I do pillars first so there is a solid contact area to ensure a minimum layer of bedding material. I make my pillars custom from 304 SS with little tabs to support the action, then epoxy the pillars in with a piece of shim stock between the action and stock.

 

[boltfluter]

I do pillars first so there is a solid contact area to ensure a minimum layer of bedding material. I make my pillars custom from 304 SS with little tabs to support the action, then epoxy the pillars in with a piece of shim stock between the action and stock.

Very nice Gene. Thanks for sharing!

Paul

 

[centershot]

Thanks for the input, Gene! So you screw the pillas to the stock, butter them up with epoxy, and then set them onto the stock? Then after that has cured, you remove the screw used to hold the pillars in place and remove the action. Then you bed the action separately. If it is a sporter weight barrel, do you bed in front of the recoil lug? Thanks, again.

 

[Adam in WI]

Is there a recommended shim thickness, or does it depend on application?

 

[GenePoole]

I always tape the lug with on the front and sides so there is a reasonable gap. I like to use that aluminum foil like duct work tape as it has a consistent thickness and easily separates from bedding material.

I use shims between 10 and 20 thou depending on how the action sits in the stock. You can see the brass shims in the second picture in the background. Those were only 10 thou in that case to keep the rear tang flush with the stock.

 

[GenePoole]

Looking at some more pictures, it may have been 15 thou shim stock for this job:

 

[Toofastforu]

I do similar as mentioned by Gene. I make the pillars and contour them for the action. Typically make a stud and nut for the action and torque the pillars down to the action. Before putting the pillars on I’ll spray the action with one shot for seepage of epoxy. Set the action in and use surgical tubing to hold it down. I then go back and work the stock down some around the pillars so I’ve got some thickness to bedding. Upon bedding I spray the action and fill any voids. Tape the lug and install the action into the stock and torque it accordingly. I use the studs on this so I don’t have to worry about epoxy getting into the threads of the action. I’ve done it all at once but prefer 2 steps as it’s easier to keep the action centered and tighter fitting in the stock. I don’t worry if the edges are thin up top. Many rifles I do are 22s or hunting rifles that guys want to look as factory as possible. Never had any issues this way. Here’s a few various pics. On 22 rimfire I often won’t make an escutcheon if the action screw goes through a plate or something. If it doesn’t I’ll make an escutcheon and make sure the escutcheon touches the bottom of the pillar so it’s all a solid connection avoiding any wood collapsing which could create erratic torque. Hope this helps and isn’t confusing. I’m sure there’s way better ways lol.