Picatinny rail install?

[muleman69]

Installing a rail on a wood stock and could use some tips at pointers? Don't want to
mess up and split wood etc. etc.

 

[joshb]

Need more info and pics. Predrill holes, of course, the size of the screw shank and not the threads. Nuts? Maybe? What kind of stock? Location of rail?

 

[ricco1949]

I open up the very top of the hole slightly larger than thread size with an end mill or counter sink to avoid the drill and/or screw threads from lifting/breaking the wood grain.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I would machine a t-nut to be recessed on the other side like in the barrel channel then epoxy them in after you mount the rail up. That way it pulls against those t-nuts (like action pillars) instead of the wood
same as mcmillan uses for the sling swivel studs

 

[Papa Charlie]

All good advice from Josh and Ricco, but I will add one other item, I will install the screws and then remove them, put a drop of super glue or some other type of low viscosity glue into the hole, coat the threads of the screws with a very thin coat of grease or lube and then put them back in. The glue is absorbed by the wood and strengthens the wood threads. The lubricant enables you to remove the screws down the road should you desire.
The only other way I have done it was to install threaded inserts into the wood and then use machine screws to attach the picatenny rail. This creates a very strong connection and allows for easy removal and re installation down the road. I use the glue technique on the inserts to strengthen the wood threads but do not lubricate the insert in this case.

 

[muleman69]

Good info from all, The rail is an Atlas and comes with screws and dry wall T-nut

 

[spife7980]

https://rifleshooter.com/2014/09/bipod-rail-installation-atlas-bipod-adapter/

 

[Cigarcop]

Like Dusty said this is strongest was.

 

[muleman69]

I would machine a t-nut to be recessed on the other side like in the barrel channel then epoxy them in after you mount the rail up. That way it pulls against those t-nuts (like action pillars) instead of the wood
same as mcmillan uses for the sling swivel studs

Got it finished last night, came out good. Drilled pilot hole then used a spade bit to counter sink for T-nuts. Forearm was narrow so we had to go with smaller bit then grind nuts to fit, worked out well.