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Permanently Numbering Brass

Does any one have a good method of marking or numbering brass to allow a person to keep a history of each pc to aid in culling, sorting etc.
 
Does any one have a good method of marking or numbering brass to allow a person to keep a history of each pc to aid in culling, sorting etc.
THIS MAY NOT BE THE BEST METHOD BUT FOR YEARS I HAVE USED A PERMANENT MAGIC MARKER TO NOTE THE NUMBER OF FIRINGS ON EACH CASE.
1ST NO MARK =FIRE FORM
2ND MARK PRIMER ONLY RED BLUE ECT.
3RD STRIPE ACROSS CASE BASE
4TH SECOND STRIPE TO FORM A X
5TH CHANGE COLOR AND REPEAT
HOPE THIS IS USEFUL. HAPPY BUGGHOLES !!!!
 
I used one of those scribers that buzz the carbide point and use it like a pen. I numbered ALL of my brass for a few years , from lightest to heaviest. I shot that brass in order on target. It was visible for many cycles, but i eventually had to go over them again.

My book keeper just called it a "scriber". i put the number on the SIDE of the case just above the web.

Hope this helps,
Tod
 
Had a friend that would use a similar method with the engraving pen and would put marks in the rim groove, after 10 marks recycle. I tried the permanent marker thing and my wet tumbling cleaned it right off.
 
Does any one have a good method of marking or numbering brass to allow a person to keep a history of each pc to aid in culling, sorting etc.
Sharpie and a trash can
Seriously though the brass you may think are sending fliers or whatever may not be a brass problem at all,
save them aside for the moment and perhaps get back to them.
Ask me how I know that;)
 
I aint taken it that far yet.. itd be nice to number rm, I can see the benefit. Ive just always been able to tell by the feel of it when prepping, you get that... " that didnt feel right moment".
 
Automatic center punch. No power required. Put a dimple in the rim after each firing. This will help keep track of firings as to when primers loosen. You can dimple a different location at the bench if you have an errant shot, and want to keep track of a particular case.
 
My intend purpose is to put a number on the case and then record things like the bullet seating pressure and the poi on the target (fliers). I shoot them in order according to seating depth but the problem is keeping tract of them during the cleaning brass prep process. I would like to see if the differences in seating pressures are in the neck turning or annealing process. Most people say just shoot them in groups and don't look back. I think neck tension and carbon or lube is important and would like to take some of my variables out of the equation without making the process any more complicated than it needs to be.
 
This is a strange thread if you ask me... I store brass in its original box, or in a loading block placed on top of said box, and just write the info down on the box. Fired, annealed, trimmed.

For a BR shooter, I’d think a 50 round Ammo box would have room for several batches with spaces between.

Why does it have to be on the brass itself?
 
This is a strange thread if you ask me... I store brass in its original box, or in a loading block placed on top of said box, and just write the info down on the box. Fired, annealed, trimmed.

For a BR shooter, I’d think a 50 round Ammo box would have room for several batches with spaces between.

Why does it have to be on the brass itself?
I keep my brass in the same exact order and shoot them in the same order. They need marked because when I run, them they end up all over the bench. I have 8 sighters and 10 records. I mark tje sighters S1 to S8 and the records 1to 10. Its harder to keep them in order when cleaning and processing the cases if they are not marked. Matt
 
I simply store my like brass in zip-lock bags with all the pertinent data on it: #times fired, whether neck sized or FL sized, primer brand/type. I then store all bags for each caliber in plastic 50 Cal ammo boxes.
 
I keep my brass in the same exact order and shoot them in the same order. They need marked because when I run, them they end up all over the bench. I have 8 sighters and 10 records. I mark tje sighters S1 to S8 and the records 1to 10. Its harder to keep them in order when cleaning and processing the cases if they are not marked. Matt

That’s kinda cool. I’ve never heard of doing this, but it wouldn’t surprise me if shooting the brass in order each time is a common practice.

Why is this done?
 
An alternative you may want to consider:

I keep my brass in 20 round MTM slip boxes. Each box is labeled with the number of times reloaded, trimmed, load, CAM setting of sizing die, etc. I dedicate 3 to 4 boxes (60 to 80 rounds) to each rifle so each rifle has it's own set of cases. I rotate the boxes for each rifle so all the case received the same number of loading, trimming, etc. The example below illustrates the label:

308 Tikka Box 1 of 3
40.0 - H4896 - 125NBT - F210 - 2.750
Reloads: 4 Trim: 4 x 1 Powder Lot: 7
Case: Rem CAM+

(The Trim numbers, 4 x 1 denotes that the cases were trimmed after the 4th reload and trimmed 1 time thus far)
(The CAM+ is a code to denote the marking with a sharpie of the full size die to give me more shoulder push back versus the cases used in my Model 700 Rem.)
 
That’s kinda cool. I’ve never heard of doing this, but it wouldn’t surprise me if shooting the brass in order each time is a common practice.

Why is this done?
Out targets are spotted and marked on a plotter sheet. By keeping the same shot in the same order, I can tell if a case is bad. You just need to look at your target and plotters and see if the same number keeps going out. Now this for 1000 yard . Matt
 
Out targets are spotted and marked on a plotter sheet. By keeping the same shot in the same order, I can tell if a case is bad. You just need to look at your target and plotters and see if the same number keeps going out. Now this for 1000 yard . Matt

I do them same thing just a little differently I guess. If I lose a shot I’ll mark that case with a sharpie. If it goes out again I chunk it. Of course I’m in a little different discipline.

Very cool though!
 
Why can't we have the case head laser marked or engraved?
You could if you have a laser engraver. I use the file marks because it takes 5sec, itll never tumble off or get rubbed off by a die, and if i leave some loaded, say 2 out of a box of 100 i can use them for sighters and wont get them confused with the 98 in that box that have been fired one more time
 

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