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Parkerizing

No. There are processes to blacken stainless but you can’t as far as I’ve ever been aware able to parkerize it.
 
I've been amazed at the many different alloys of stainless steel. I've seen some that seem to be every bit as magnetic as mild steel, and others that are completely non-magnetic.

The corrosive properties of the magnetic metal (iron) must be modified by the alloy of the other components in the mix. jd
 
I've been amazed at the many different alloys of stainless steel. I've seen some that seem to be every bit as magnetic as mild steel, and others that are completely non-magnetic.

The corrosive properties of the magnetic metal (iron) must be modified by the alloy of the other components in the mix. jd
Yes, There are so many types of stainless alloys.

The way parkerizing works, Is simply to etch the surface so that it will hold oil. Far superior to bluing. I used to restore Garands and other ww2 small arms. But I haven't done any in quite a few years. I have switched over to Cerakote for the stuff I build now.
 
Yes, There are so many types of stainless alloys.

The way parkerizing works, Is simply to etch the surface so that it will hold oil. Far superior to bluing. I used to restore Garands and other ww2 small arms. But I haven't done any in quite a few years. I have switched over to Cerakote for the stuff I build now.
Yes and park works great as a "primer" under cerakote and durakote for that reason. Makes a very worthwhile difference in durability, IME.
 
Yes, There are so many types of stainless alloys.

The way parkerizing works, Is simply to etch the surface so that it will hold oil. Far superior to bluing. I used to restore Garands and other ww2 small arms. But I haven't done any in quite a few years. I have switched over to Cerakote for the stuff I build now.
I've parked a few, and as I understand the process, it is even better than simply etching. The phosphoric acid in the brew turns the iron in the surface of the steel to iron phosphate, as opposed to iron oxide (rust). This in itself helps prevent future rust, as does the etching which helps oil adhesion. I also used manganese dioxide as a darkener.

It's been several years since I've done this, an I hope I've splained it correctly. I was pretty pleased with the results. I've got a bead blaster, which makes for a peachy surface for this process. Aluminum oxide would leave a more pronounced etch on the surface if that is what you're after. jd
 

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