bichettereds
Silver $$ Contributor
Does anyone here wax their clear coated/painted stocks? Not for performance in the bags, but as a protectant/sealer and to keep them looking nice?
Painted stock sealer/wax?
- Thread starter bichettereds
- Start date
newbieshooter
:-)
@Bc'z
here's a couple of references:
Ceramic coating…
here's a couple of references:
Stock tape and fresh paint
Getting ready to refresh a BR stock for a member this is what I found, and I've always known to be true. If you put stock tape on a fresh paint job. "YOU WILL TRAP SOLVENTS ", and can instigate a delamination. When I peeled the tape off this stock the paint came with it, and I could smell...
forum.accurateshooter.com
Ceramic coating…
Last edited:
Multiracer
Gold $$ Contributor
The absolute best for any non tupperware firearm.
I 100% agree.
I do. Megs M21. Great protector and slick as shit
Jeff i talked with a fella last week i painted a stock for, he used stock tape, shoots a mechanical rest for his 22lr.
He peeled the tape and paint came up with it.
Now no one is to blame in this situation, just stating it takes time for all those solvents to leave the film build. I still suggest folks give it a couple weeks before even applying the ceramic coating as suggested by @RKS.
1 last thing ...
The stock in question was sprayed in automotive clear before I started using polyester primer and clears on my finishes.
I'll be fixing it after season this winter, which means I'll probably strip it and start over.
wow - what a service!!!! can't beat that kind of craftsmanship and still fixes all the fubar's we throw at him!!! don't see that kind of service with a smile factor much any more these days. credit to YOU sir!!!!!
all the accolades aside - it might help all us idiots out hear if you could give us a does and don't on finishes after the final coat is applied???? know that's asking a million words but you have a lot or merchandise in the field so to speak
thanks
stan
all the accolades aside - it might help all us idiots out hear if you could give us a does and don't on finishes after the final coat is applied???? know that's asking a million words but you have a lot or merchandise in the field so to speak
thanks
stan
Mornin Stan,
Here's the deal with solvent when it sprayed in a finish, it doesn’t just flash off and leave the film it 1st Penetrates to the dryed cured substrate. This is why I don't like automotive clears, primers on wood due to its porosity.
Composites act differently provided the gell coat isn't compromised.
I personally block the snot out of all my Composites with 80grit to even highs and lows before applying filler to get them straight in turn compromising the gelcoat exposing the matting material in various locations such as the bottom of forend, grip area, toe.
Polyester primer doesn't have near the amount of solvent.
Now on a custom finish such as the 1 I mentioned above, your looking at a paint job consisting of multiple coats of automotive paints.
1 double wet coat of sealer
3 coats of base coat black
1 coat HOH marblizer
1 coat basecoat black
1 coat HOK marblizer
4-5 coats of HOK candy
4 coats of automotive clear
Roughly 15-16 coats of automotive with 20-30% reducer/solvent added.
Remember when I said solvent penetrates to the dryer cured substrate?? Lol
Thats a lot of penetration, and why dry times between coats is crucial.
Step #2 happens 4 days later
Block sand stock with 800 wet or dry for more clear 4-5 coats should get it, but keep in mind the base hasn't cured fully still holding solvent in the film.
Not using any heat above ambient temperature slows down curing leaving us with time to complete the cure.
The only way to accomplish this is TIME!!
Now if someone puts stock tape on a custom job they've in essence trapped those solvents setting the paint job up for failure.
By using Polyester primer and final clear helps elevate some of the problem, along with my day job extending my cycle/ lead times will help.
I am promoting the use of Ceramic spray wax over tape, but its not my rifle nor my choice to use, thats up to the shooter.
I also recommend a few more weeks of drying before applying the Ceramic due to paint being porous and needing to breath.
I can go on and on but I need to get my ass to work.
Folks just need to keep thins in perspective....
If you've waited this long to get your rifle built, and paid to have it painted a few extra weeks curing is to thier benefit before applying Ceramic or tape.
Here's the deal with solvent when it sprayed in a finish, it doesn’t just flash off and leave the film it 1st Penetrates to the dryed cured substrate. This is why I don't like automotive clears, primers on wood due to its porosity.
Composites act differently provided the gell coat isn't compromised.
I personally block the snot out of all my Composites with 80grit to even highs and lows before applying filler to get them straight in turn compromising the gelcoat exposing the matting material in various locations such as the bottom of forend, grip area, toe.
Polyester primer doesn't have near the amount of solvent.
Now on a custom finish such as the 1 I mentioned above, your looking at a paint job consisting of multiple coats of automotive paints.
1 double wet coat of sealer
3 coats of base coat black
1 coat HOH marblizer
1 coat basecoat black
1 coat HOK marblizer
4-5 coats of HOK candy
4 coats of automotive clear
Roughly 15-16 coats of automotive with 20-30% reducer/solvent added.
Remember when I said solvent penetrates to the dryer cured substrate?? Lol
Thats a lot of penetration, and why dry times between coats is crucial.
Step #2 happens 4 days later
Block sand stock with 800 wet or dry for more clear 4-5 coats should get it, but keep in mind the base hasn't cured fully still holding solvent in the film.
Not using any heat above ambient temperature slows down curing leaving us with time to complete the cure.
The only way to accomplish this is TIME!!
Now if someone puts stock tape on a custom job they've in essence trapped those solvents setting the paint job up for failure.
By using Polyester primer and final clear helps elevate some of the problem, along with my day job extending my cycle/ lead times will help.
I am promoting the use of Ceramic spray wax over tape, but its not my rifle nor my choice to use, thats up to the shooter.
I also recommend a few more weeks of drying before applying the Ceramic due to paint being porous and needing to breath.
I can go on and on but I need to get my ass to work.
Folks just need to keep thins in perspective....
If you've waited this long to get your rifle built, and paid to have it painted a few extra weeks curing is to thier benefit before applying Ceramic or tape.
WOW!!!!
THANKS for all the detail work!!!! makes perfect sense now, why sometimes separation occurs even when you think there has been plenty of time to dry
thanks a million \
stan
For future reference....
I like my cheese burger char'd on the outside but juicy in the middle American cheese slab of onion, tomato lite lettuce mayo, chocolate malt, thousand island for my fries.. Lol
Whats a "Moscato Rita" ??
Just saw it on the menu
so you are a #5 - sissy cheeseburger
with basket and thousand island
chocolate malt
all for less than 10 bucks lol!!!!
stan
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