Outside neck turning

[7mmtcu]

I would like to know what manual os neck turner you'all feel is best. I am considering Forester or RCBS. thank's

 

[AlNyhus]

I'd recommend a Sinclair or K&M. If you're bucks up, a Neilsen Pumpkin from Kelbly's is great.

 

[SS427]

I'm in the market too. Sinclair offers three models now, at progressively higher prices. Anyone know if the higher priced models give much advantage over the lower priced models? I can't really tell the difference from the pics in the catalog.

 

[cmillard]

i currently have a forster. the cutter itself is fine but the brass holder is a pain. i like the sinclair style brass holder.

 

[groupshooter22]

Get the K&M or Sinclair with their corrosponding expanders. That way the neck fits correctly for the turning mandrel. I have the K&M and really like it I think the Sinclair 1000 model is almost the same size as the K&M but the K&M has .0002" graduations marked and is quite accurate.

 

[fdshuster]

Started out with the Sinclair NT-1000, years ago and struggled with it. Main problem is making fine ajustments is all trial and error/mostly error/ ruined brass with $$$$ Lapua. No way to get repeat readings when changing depth of cutter. Switched over to the K&M about 5 yrs. ago, and am very happy with it. The depth of cut really is controllable to .0001", as advertised. But, had problems with the screwdriver-type handle. No matter how tight I make it, it always comes lose about half-way thru the cut, so for that reason I continue to use the Sinclair T-handle V- block clamp handle that spans the case head (like the handle from a tap & die set). Also had problems with the Sinclair expanding/ turning mandrels. When necking up, from Lapua 220 Russian to 6ppc, no matter how tight I made the very small socket head set screw, that holds the mandrel in the die body, the mandrel would sometime pull out and be stuck in the case neck. For that reason I prefer using the K&M mandrels with the vertical mounted screw: impossible for the mandrel to pull out. So, you might say I've picked the best of both worlds from the Sinclair & K&M, and that combination serves me well. I have no experience with the Pumpkin or new upgraded Sinclair, but many are using them, so they are probably very high quality. Gradually getting away from tight,fitted necks that require a lot of neck turning, and having more chamberings done with no-turn necks for the superior Lapua brass/ maybe just a very light (.001") clean-up cut.

 

[Coach Hunt]

Howdy,

I have used the Forster for several years; however, I got them to special grind a cutter with the exact shoulder angle of the brass I was using (WSM). I do not like their brass holder, so I bought a Sinclair Intl. holder to go in my power screwdriver. That is wonderfu now. The tool itself is only fair in regard to repeatability, but it isn't too hard to adjust to the proper depth of cut. Hope that helps.

Coach

 

[Dimwit Flathead]

The Sinclair NT-3000 with the setup jig is what I've been using for several years. The jig gets you on the money in pretty short order and also works with the NT-1000 turner.

 

[SS427]

Great info guys. Would some of you take a different position on the critcisms if you were only turning .001 to .002 off the necks?

 

[1shot]

Otter,
I have the exact set-up as onomrbil and once I understood the correct way to set it up is is very consistant. And yes, I would and do use it to make small clean-up cuts. With the dial indicator installed it will give you instand feedback as to what you are doing.
I hope this helps,
Lloyd

 

[fdshuster]

Lloyd: Yes, I now keep the Sinclair NT-1000 "permanetly" set for one depth of cut, and use the K&M when needing different cutting depth's since it's so easy to change. Always used a feeler gauge ( ex: .012") to adjust the NT-1000, but ran into the re-set problem when needing to go to .0125" ( as an example). Seldom use the dial indicator on the K&M as I prefer to check neck walls with the tubing mic, but do like the length-of-cut stop, since it gives something "extra" to hold onto.