Optimal Case Neck Thickness

[257Roberts]

With regards to brass life, assuming proper reloading techniques for minimal shoulder bump and good case annealing etc., is there an optimal neck thickness for longevity? Or is it "thicker the better"?

Obviously thicknesses vary by brand and by lot, and I have seen anyway from .013-.018" on factory or military brass. I've read about folks turning down as far as .010".

I am new to turning in general, but understand the value of consistent neck tension. I began using bushing dies for my match rifles and Lapua brass, and the results are very noticeable. I am now thinking about working on some of my more obscure hunting rifles, but with component availability not improving any time soon, I want to make a well informed decision before I cut.

In this case, its my namesake, 257 Roberts. I have plenty of Winchester +P brass, and it varies anywhere from .015-.0165. I have a 0.284 bushing and was planning to turn to .014" for a .001" neck tension. Is .014" neck wall thickness realistic, or is that too much or too little?

I am sure there are varying opinions on the matter, and all opinions are appreciated. Again, while I am trying to clean up my reloads for better groups, my goal is brass longevity.

Thanks as always.

 

[Straightshooter1]

With regards to brass life, assuming proper reloading techniques for minimal shoulder bump and good case annealing etc., is there an optimal neck thickness for longevity? Or is it "thicker the better"?

Obviously thicknesses vary by brand and by lot, and I have seen anyway from .013-.018" on factory or military brass. I've read about folks turning down as far as .010".

I am new to turning in general, but understand the value of consistent neck tension. I began using bushing dies for my match rifles and Lapua brass, and the results are very noticeable. I am now thinking about working on some of my more obscure hunting rifles, but with component availability not improving any time soon, I want to make a well informed decision before I cut.

In this case, its my namesake, 257 Roberts. I have plenty of Winchester +P brass, and it varies anywhere from .015-.0165. I have a 0.284 bushing and was planning to turn to .014" for a .001" neck tension. Is .014" neck wall thickness realistic, or is that too much or too little?

I am sure there are varying opinions on the matter, and all opinions are appreciated. Again, while I am trying to clean up my reloads for better groups, my goal is brass longevity.

Thanks as always.

I'm curious as well. Thinking about it, it seems the thinner the neck the easier and faster the neck will seal off the chamber, which I would think would change the peak pressure timing . . .??? How that might affect consistency, I dunno. On my .308 I've turned a batch to .0125 and some other's to .0140. The .0125's did fine, but the .0140 did appear to do a hair better for the loads I've done. But I feel things are likely to be different with different chambers. Anyway, it'd be interesting to see what other's experiences are.

 

[D-4297]

From what I've learned , and what I've read , it appears to be relative to your chamber neck size . If your chamber is cut to a "No-turn" neck , then I've found that turning necks can be more detrimental , than beneficial . Since your .014 rounds did better , it sounds as though you may have a "No turn" neck chamber . Turning necks minimally to true the brass can be helpful with a "No turn" neck chamber , but doing to far will show you've just created a lot of sighter brass . If you have a "tight" neck chamber then matching the proper spacing becomes mandatory to get adequate neck expansion and consistent bullet release .

 

[mikecr]

IMO, there is no such thing as 'neck life'.
Thicker necks can provide more tension (+), and then more variance of it (-). But your load will need to like it. So, you can always adjust tension through neck sizing LENGTH.

Personally, I would never go so thin as to cause excess neck clearances. And I like everything within 1-2thou clearance. Minimal sizing allows an easy path to long brass life.

 

[Webster]

With regards to brass life, assuming proper reloading techniques for minimal shoulder bump and good case annealing etc., is there an optimal neck thickness for longevity? Or is it "thicker the better"?

Obviously thicknesses vary by brand and by lot, and I have seen anyway from .013-.018" on factory or military brass. I've read about folks turning down as far as .010".

I am new to turning in general, but understand the value of consistent neck tension. I began using bushing dies for my match rifles and Lapua brass, and the results are very noticeable. I am now thinking about working on some of my more obscure hunting rifles, but with component availability not improving any time soon, I want to make a well informed decision before I cut.

In this case, its my namesake, 257 Roberts. I have plenty of Winchester +P brass, and it varies anywhere from .015-.0165. I have a 0.284 bushing and was planning to turn to .014" for a .001" neck tension. Is .014" neck wall thickness realistic, or is that too much or too little?

I am sure there are varying opinions on the matter, and all opinions are appreciated. Again, while I am trying to clean up my reloads for better groups, my goal is brass longevity.

Thanks as always.

I have a 6BR .272" chamber neck Lapua brass. I have a little over 20 shots on each case. Turned to 0.0125". Annealing is what will determine how many shots till the necks crack.

 

[Fuj]

I prefer a thick neck. My wild catting work allows me to
play in this area a bit better. However, I ran into an
unexpected problem when I annealed my first batch
of my latest cat. I chose a mid range load that shot
tight and round. So I was interested if it would repeat
with the softer necks. Fired the first round and the case
would not pull from the chamber. I tapped it out with
a rod and all looked good and absolutley no soot. I fired
a second and the same thing happend. The overly thick
and soft necks had no spring back. Cases were not overly
annealed. Just a little color on the shoulder. I cut the anneal
time by a third and the problem went away.