[br]dmoran said:When the action gets trued, bolt-timing will also need addressed (if it is done right).
Which is a good time to replace the bolt with a tighter clearance bolt-body, and select the bolt-face diameter you desire.
In my opinion, replacing the bolt is a better option then putting money into the factory bolt.
Steve Blair said:[br]dmoran said:When the action gets trued, bolt-timing will also need addressed (if it is done right).
Which is a good time to replace the bolt with a tighter clearance bolt-body, and select the bolt-face diameter you desire.
In my opinion, replacing the bolt is a better option then putting money into the factory bolt.
Donovan has the correct answer. Get one of PT&G's one-piece Remington bolts and have it fitted to the action. Properly done, it will have optimal clearance and timing and be a much better bolt than Remington supplied. [br]
http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/remingtonperf.htm#bolts
My point is that a coned bolt/barrel makes for an easier feed. I believe I said I am not a gunsmith and that while you have the smith's attention, this is the time to get an estimate for services to be rendered and all the options. Also if the original poster is talking about trueing his action I have to assume he is going to do something in respect to his barrel(s). This would be the time to explore all those options. I have five or six actions and because I look at all the options before plunging, all those actions and all my barrels (12) can be switched interchangeably. I can shoot a 6ppc in the Panda and a 30 BR in the Stiller Predator and a 220 Russian in the Remington 700 and then I can switcheroo and change the game. And it's less expensive if the total picture now and in the future is taken into consideration at the beginning.dmoran said:Uthink Uknow said:I'd have the smith open it up when he trues the action. It means some work will have to be done to the extractor at the time also. As the bolt will be in the lathe for trueing, it seems like it would be a minimal charge to open the boltface at that time. But then, I'm not a gunsmith. While you're at it check the size of the firing pin diameter and the hole in the boltface. The tolerance there should be tight, or tighter than most are. This reduces the chances for blown primers.
What I found interesting is that PTG doesn't have coned Remington bolts and they suggest you go to Stiller for that.
Questions:
Remington's do not have coned bolts... so what is your point?
All the things you list to have done to the factory bolt (truing, boltface, extractor, bushed, timing) what will that all cost?
How does that all price out in comparison to replacing the bolt with a PTG?
dmoran said:When the action gets trued, bolt-timing will also need addressed (if it is done right).
Which is a good time to replace the bolt with a tighter clearance bolt-body, and select the bolt-face diameter you desire.
In my opinion, replacing the bolt is a better option then putting money into the factory bolt.
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holstil said:Somebody might be interested in trading for your bolt. :-\
+2Cigarcop said:holstil said:Somebody might be interested in trading for your bolt. :-\
+1