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older 54 action rifle or go with a 1907?

I have a chance to purchase a benchrest rifle that is built around a 1964 anschutz 54 action, It seems to have a newer 5018 trigger. Anything to worry about in an older anschutz action/bolt? How about parts availability? wear?

Decided to go with a 1907, pics included a bit later in this thread
 
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I have a chance to purchase a benchrest rifle that is built around a 1964 anschutz 54 action, It seems to have a newer 5018 trigger. Anything to worry about in an older anschutz action/bolt? How about parts availability? wear?

Anschutz does not support these rifles with spare parts. firing pins are hard to come by, firing pin springs you can get replacements from Wolff. you still can find extractors. Nordic marksman has most of these parts I mentioned
that trigger is most likely a 5071 or 5071-1 (5018 with correct catch link)
overall they make good BR rifles. Joe Besche shoots with one and is a legend in RFBR circles.

hope this helps
 
If possible, make sure the firing system has not been monkeyed with too much.
Pin tip may have been filed, should be checked.
I would reccommend you stay away from Wolff springs unless you are very familiar with 54 ignition, they often, tend to be too strong. Get an OEM spring as well as the small indicator spring in the back of the bolt, they are available.
 
Any idea about the cost of some of these parts, ejectors, firing pins etc? Approx, anyone manufacturing parts or is the available stock is it?
 
Any idea about the cost of some of these parts, ejectors, firing pins etc? Approx, anyone manufacturing parts or is the available stock is it?

Go to nordicmarkman.com they have most spare bolt parts. one thing I forgot to mention if you can inspect the rifle look real close to the cocking ramp on the bolt handle, I seen where someone not familiar with how to work on these older 54 tries to improve the ramp by filing or even using the dreaded dremel on the ramp and change the angle causing real hard closing of the bolt.
in the photo see where the black arrow is pointing how there is a real gentle transition. the white arrow is where I seen someone had filed or dremeled the ramp so it starts there and at a steeper angle. what this does is it increase the effort to overcome the angle and makes cycling the bolt to open and close much harder.
if correctly stoned and smoothed out you should be able to open and close the bolt with your index finger with very little effort. helps to keep the rifle undisturbed when shooting BR.1411 bolt cocking ramp - Copy.JPG
 
I must be missing something, I was thinking the new 1710-1712 had 54 actions? If so wouldnt those parts work on the 54? Thanks for setting me straight!

There are two individual types of the 54 action with distinct differences. The 54 sporters (1710-1712) have their own triggers, action screw location, and bolts while the 54 Match actions have their own. There is a version of the 54 Match that has a flat bottomed receiver, uses a traverse barrel clamping arrangement, and uses 4 receiver screws, so I suppose we can say there are 3 different 54 actions.
 
I did not know that about the Sporters, very good information, what is the reason for the modifications?

Is it the square 2013 action model that has the flat bottom and 4 receiver screws?
 
There are two individual types of the 54 action with distinct differences. The 54 sporters (1710-1712) have their own triggers, action screw location, and bolts while the 54 Match actions have their own. There is a version of the 54 Match that has a flat bottomed receiver, uses a traverse barrel clamping arrangement, and uses 4 receiver screws, so I suppose we can say there are 3 different 54 actions.
Gen-1 1950's-1976 Gen-1A1977-1979 Gen-2 1980-1999? Gen-3 2000-2015 Gen-4 2016-
Not exactly sure when the square action came out
Gen-1A are the famed X actions
 
Found a 1907, 1987 vintage , looks near new, the stock is adj Cheek/lop, looks like it will work fine for bench shooting . Any thoughts?
 
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can it benefit from a tuner?

Not to be flippant, but there’s only one way to know for sure.
I’ve not heard of a tuner hurting performance and from what seems to be conventional wisdom, a tuner will allow you to get the most from each individual lot of ammo.
 
can it benefit from a tuner?

Yeah, I would suspect so, again, if you have a decent unmolested bore and your firing system is reliable and consistant.
AMong the biggest deals with most of these guns that were, likely owned by position guys is the bores were generally cleaned.....never.
You need to learn how to properly clean it starting with removing a lot of crap to start out with clean metal in the bore.
 

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