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OK, so I have a couple 6PPC barrel donors coming need steps guidance

Road_Clam

So those of you that have been following my other post , now that I have a few barrels to learn on, based on the fact that these barrels are shot out , pre-chambered, what would you recommend for the step by step process ? The bonus with me machining 6mm barrels is the fact I already shoot .243 Rem , and actually have a set of go / no-go headspace gauges . So i'm assuming the most cost effective process would be to chamber in .243 Rem ? I've been researching online "reamer rental" services , has anyone used this and did this work as a cost effective chamber solution ?

Got my barrel gunsmithing instructional manual by John L. Hinnant yesterday and was up will 1am flipping through the pages, and what an outstanding invaluable reference for me moving forward. JLH actually took the time to construct all types of fixtures drawings and they are just brilliant as far as function. I LOVE researching fresh varied machining methods. I fabbed a action jig that holds the OD many years ago , and JLH outlines a mandrel based action fixture. More than one way to skin yer' cat !

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If you've got 6mm barrels to play with... I'd find cut the chamber end off up to the neck and start fresh. Do the whole process.

Buy a "cheap" (meaning something non custom, off the shelf) 6mm reamer and HS gauge. I'd call manson/jgs or look at the online retailers for something in stock. I wouldn't rent a reamer. Shot out barrels are hard on reamers for what it's worth.
 
Take those old bbls. n make a wind chime out of them. U will have a unique item of conversation and they sound nice!
 
If the donor barrel was a ppc its most likely a slow twist . I guess you could do a .243 winchester and throat it for light bullets if your going to actually shoot it.
 
LVLAaron said:
If you've got 6mm barrels to play with... I'd find cut the chamber end off up to the neck and start fresh. Do the whole process.

Buy a "cheap" (meaning something non custom, off the shelf) 6mm reamer and HS gauge. I'd call manson/jgs or look at the online retailers for something in stock. I wouldn't rent a reamer. Shot out barrels are hard on reamers for what it's worth.
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Clymer is good to go , too. Brownells stocks some of the common ones. Chambering a used barrel IS hard on the reamer. As gunpowder burns, it leaves carbon particles behind, some imbedded in the bore.. Guess what that can do to a HS cutting tool. You'll probably find PTG reamers on-line, but I'd follow Aarons' advice and opt for JGS or Manson,,,, and as I mentioned Clymer for "off the shelf".
 
Cut out the crusty parts of barrels, practice cutting, tenons, timing to action, threading and get a cheaper 6mm chamber reamer and cut some chambers.
 
Just for clarification I don't have any plans to actually shoot these barrels, they are strictly for educational purposes threading and chambering.
 
I'm sticking with my suggestion, but get something that will at least fit an action/bolt that you have on hand so you can check headspace properly when all is done. The last thou is tricky to manage.
 
LVLAaron said:
I'm sticking with my suggestion, but get something that will at least fit an action/bolt that you have on hand so you can check headspace properly when all is done. The last thou is tricky to manage.
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I’m planning on cutting a few gauges that match my action threads with a small depth mic on the end.
Adding a timing mark and ability to set headspace without taking my rifles apart.
 
If the "shot out" part is just the throat, you could participate in another thread on here about a light bullet in 6BR.

Plus, chambering for 6BR would give you more barrel to work with as it is ~ .5" shorter and when you are done you will have the tools you need to chamber a great cartridge.
 
LVLAaron said:
I'm sticking with my suggestion, but get something that will at least fit an action/bolt that you have on hand so you can check headspace properly when all is done. The last thou is tricky to manage.
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I think my preference moving foreward is to not use shouldered barrels but Savage style nuts. I have a McRees Precision 6.5CM on a R700 action and it's a "Remage" design. Set the headspace with the barrel nut and done. Still none the less I want to learn the shouldered headspace method as well .
 
Make the tenon fit perfect, cut that off and do another one. Dont worry about chambering til you get the tenon fit down. A ppc barrel is 1.200 most times and tapers quick so you may only get one more out of each barrel. Dont ruin a reamer on one
 
I have probably 50 1.25" 416r roundbar cutoffs that are 2-4 inches long.. If OP wants a dozen to practice on I'm happy to send a priority box out
 
Road_Clam said:
I think my preference moving foreward is to not use shouldered barrels but Savage style nuts. I have a McRees Precision 6.5CM on a R700 action and it's a "Remage" design. Set the headspace with the barrel nut and done. Still none the less I want to learn the shouldered headspace method as well .
Click to expand...
You have downloaded this haven't you.

130 page PDF of different chambering methods

A very large file that can be emailed. Several different gunsmiths telling and showing their methods. Send me a PM and I will email it to you. EDIT: Embedded the PDF here so that Butch doesn't get spammed... :-) -JC
forum.accurateshooter.com
 
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