Thinking about buying a nightforce 8-32x56 to put on my varmint gun. Question is, are there any big difference between the nxs model and the br model? I've never even seen a nightforce scope, but I think the 8-32 would be nice on my varmint gun. And what recticles do you guys prefer? Was thinking about either a mill dot recticle or a target dot style.
nightforce scopes...
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I use an 8x32 NXS on a Varmint rifle with the CH1 crosshair reticle. I like as fine as possible for small targets. The NXS has external adjustable knobs in 1/4moa clicks, and a side focus knob which includes the lit reticle switch,you pull out the knob). The only thing I don't like about NF is that the whole eyepiece turns with magnification change. This causes interference from my flip-up scope covers,which are a must). So I tend to leave the scope on 32x.
Ranging or drop compensating reticles probably don't work all that well on a NF because it's second focal plane. The mag setting is not detented for a calibrated value. So how would you ever really know when your reticles are in cal?
Second focal plane is better for small targets at distance though.
Thats my opinion of coarse.
Ranging or drop compensating reticles probably don't work all that well on a NF because it's second focal plane. The mag setting is not detented for a calibrated value. So how would you ever really know when your reticles are in cal?
Second focal plane is better for small targets at distance though.
Thats my opinion of coarse.
Preacher
Gold $$ Contributor
The varmints better beware of that Nightforce scope !
The BR models have 1/8th inch clicks apposed to the 1/4 clicks on the NSX.
The BR's AO adjustment is on the far end of the tube, and the NXS adjustment is on a third wheel opposite of the windage wheel
My favorite reticule is the NP-R2 or the NP-1RR if you don't own a range finder.
They do have a very accurate ranging mark on the tubes that seem to work very well
for me when I forget the rangefinder...........Once you have one for a while you'll never want anything else, ever.
The BR models have 1/8th inch clicks apposed to the 1/4 clicks on the NSX.
The BR's AO adjustment is on the far end of the tube, and the NXS adjustment is on a third wheel opposite of the windage wheel
My favorite reticule is the NP-R2 or the NP-1RR if you don't own a range finder.
They do have a very accurate ranging mark on the tubes that seem to work very well
for me when I forget the rangefinder...........Once you have one for a while you'll never want anything else, ever.
I'd vote for the benchrest 8 X 32 with NP-R2 lighted reticle..I think it is the best bang for the $$$ scope out there ..I've bought 3 now..The ranging marks look like railroad tracks up & down they are divided in 2 MOA increments..the east to west marks are spaced 5 MOA..this is a very fast user friendly set-up..no joke groundhogs beware...You can use the marks to hold over or under & they do help estimate the range..in a bad crosswind..the 5moa mark to the right or left works out really well to help u hold into the wind..These are solid well built well designed scopes..There may be better out there..but I can't afford it..The clarity & definition is simply outstanding ..I can't say enough good things about Nightforce scopes..If you shop hard or find a deal on a used one in good condition..They are well worth the price...mike in ct
hfinkle
Silver $$ Contributor
I just sold a 12x42 nxs it was a nice scope but you can only get it in 2nd plane reticle. when you change power the point of impact changes maybe 10 ft. at 500 yds. if you just use a scope for varmint and praire dog go with a first plane reticle . horus vision makes one with their scope or schmidt-bender, and they will do a leupold. priemer reticles also makes a reticle for schmidt-bender. I have a scope from priemer and it works perfect for little dogs at long range. hal
ok, thanks for the info guys.. um, i don't want to sound like a total idiot, but what is a second plane recticle? and someone said that if i change magnification my point of impact would be off? sorry, don't mean to be the village idiot....
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
Second focal plane scopes are what probably 99% of the U.S. market is made up of... i.e. when you increase the magnifications, the target image gets bigger, but the reticle doesn't appear to change. Unfortunately this leads to the side effect that the reticle subtensions,i.e. how thick the crosshair wire is relative to the target dimensions) to change. Most if not all target scopes are like this, because as you increase the magnification, the crosshairs 'appear' to cover less of the target, allowing finer aiming resolution. This is a disadvantage though if you use a reticle that has hold-off or hold-over aiming marks or hashes,such a mil-dot reticle) as it makes the dimensions between the various marks change w/ the scope magnification, and they are only truly 'on' at one specific power.
First focal plane scopes magnify the target image *and* the reticle at the same time as you increase the magnification, so the reticle subtension to the target remains constant thru out the scope power range. This allows easy use of the same hold-off/hold-over points regardless of the scope magnification, which is currently 'en vogue' in the tactical world, and some hunting target type people do like it also for the same reasons. The disadvantage to the FFP reticle for pure target shooting is that the reticle appears to get coarser as you increase the magnification... you don't get much if any finer of an aiming point going from min to max power, and the sensation of the reticle getting 'coarser' and obscuring the target at max power while getting too fine and 'disappearing' at min power bothers some people,like me).
Supposedly some of the newer reticle designs have this in mind... the bulk of the reticle is designed for FFP range finding and hold-off use, but still providing a good aiming interface at lower powers w/ a much smaller finer center section that comes into view as the power increases for long range shooting. Most of these reticles come primarily in semi-custom $$$ scopes such as U.S. Optics, which make even NightForce scopes look affordable.
As for the poster who claims that his point of impact changed 10 feet when changing power on the scope... I would guess he was using a hold-off of some sort. If the point of impact changes 10 feet w/ a center hold... send the damn thing back to the factory cuz it's broken
First focal plane scopes magnify the target image *and* the reticle at the same time as you increase the magnification, so the reticle subtension to the target remains constant thru out the scope power range. This allows easy use of the same hold-off/hold-over points regardless of the scope magnification, which is currently 'en vogue' in the tactical world, and some hunting target type people do like it also for the same reasons. The disadvantage to the FFP reticle for pure target shooting is that the reticle appears to get coarser as you increase the magnification... you don't get much if any finer of an aiming point going from min to max power, and the sensation of the reticle getting 'coarser' and obscuring the target at max power while getting too fine and 'disappearing' at min power bothers some people,like me).
Supposedly some of the newer reticle designs have this in mind... the bulk of the reticle is designed for FFP range finding and hold-off use, but still providing a good aiming interface at lower powers w/ a much smaller finer center section that comes into view as the power increases for long range shooting. Most of these reticles come primarily in semi-custom $$$ scopes such as U.S. Optics, which make even NightForce scopes look affordable.
As for the poster who claims that his point of impact changed 10 feet when changing power on the scope... I would guess he was using a hold-off of some sort. If the point of impact changes 10 feet w/ a center hold... send the damn thing back to the factory cuz it's broken
excellent explantion, thank you very much.
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