Night Force ATACR 7x35x56 with Night Force Wedge Prism, 4AW Aadapter.

[SKWERLZ]

I was thinking of just a 20 degree rail because most of my shooting would be at 200 and 300 yards and going out to a mile when invited up to the ranch.

I’d still get a rail with more inclination, a decent scope won’t degrade much in image quality even at extremes of travel.

Plus prisms and periscopes do affect image a bit, more than a maxed out elevation quality scope.

 

[big5ifty]

If you're only going 1 mile with a 300gr Berger in a Lapua Improved, check the drop on the ballistic calculator with your data, and I'm pretty sure you will find you don't need more elevation than what is already available between your rail and the ATACR.

The problem is after a while, 1 mile is going to be too easy, and you'll want to go further, so if you're going to buy, buy the most elevation you can afford.

 

[SKWERLZ]

If you're only going 1 mile with a 300gr Berger in a Lapua Improved, check the drop on the ballistic calculator with your data, and I'm pretty sure you will find you don't need more elevation than what is already available between your rail and the ATACR.

The problem is after a while, 1 mile is going to be too easy, and you'll want to go further, so if you're going to buy, buy the most elevation you can afford.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[ELR LVR]

If you're only going 1 mile with a 300gr Berger in a Lapua Improved, check the drop on the ballistic calculator with your data, and I'm pretty sure you will find you don't need more elevation than what is already available between your rail and the ATACR.

The problem is after a while, 1 mile is going to be too easy, and you'll want to go further, so if you're going to buy, buy the most elevation you can afford.

THIS ^^^
IE:
Many tier 1 scopes have enough adjustment built in than you will need even with a rail
Example: I only need 18.5 Mils for 2200 yds
My scope provides 28 Mils
-----------------------------------------
Any medium light has to transfer through, affects light transmission
adding a prism does the same

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Don't limit yourself. Get a 40 moa rail and extra high 1.5" height rings so later you can shoot 2 miles with a wedge. Get a scope with big travel. You won't need it at a mile, but once you crush the mile you'll wanna go further...

I'll have to use the reticle at 2 miles, but it should get there....

 

[moondog]

Don't limit yourself. Get a 40 moa rail and extra high 1.5" height rings so later you can shoot 2 miles with a wedge. Get a scope with big travel. You won't need it at a mile, but once you crush the mile you'll wanna go further...

I'll have to use the reticle at 2 miles, but it should get there....

View attachment 1702075

338Imp doesn't have the horsepower for 2 miles. Jackie will have all he needs in his scope for the effective range of that caliber with a 40 base.

 

[RabbitSlayer]

338Imp doesn't have the horsepower for 2 miles. Jackie will have all he needs in his scope for the effective range of that caliber with a 40 base.

My 22lr is fun at 600 yards. My 6 creed creed is still fun at 1 mile. I bet my saum will be fun at 2 miles too. Thats far beyond the effective range, but if its not a competition, its still fun as heck.

 

[shoot4fun]

This looks like a good combo for my ELR out to a mile.

I see the difference between the NF Wedge Prism and the Charlie Tarac.

None of this is cheap. But looks like a good option for 1 mile with a not so extreme canted mount.

Which would be best with the NF ATACR. The 50 or 100 MOA?

Nightforce Wedge Adapter

This video has info on the NF Wedge and on how to use our adapter and swivel nut system.

4aw-store.myshopify.com

Nightforce: Wedge Prism - 100 MOA/ 29.1 MRAD

Nightforce: The Wedge Prism shifts the incoming image to the riflescope by a precise elevation value, that directly adds to the elevation within the scope.

www.milehighshooting.com

I don't see that you've told us what cartridge you plan on using(edit: 338LMIMP) this scope/prism for to shoot 1 mile (or farther). I have 5-25 ATACR scopes with 20MOA bases on my 338LM and 300NM 35˚IMP. The 338 takes 21 mrad to get a 300 grain Berger on target at 1800 while the 300NMI will do it with a 215 Hybrid dialed up to 14.5 mrad. The 5-25ATACR, according to NF specs, has a bit more total movement available than the 7-35 but not sure enough to be a deal breaker for one mile (depending on cartridge).
My suggestion would be buy the optic, either 7-35 or 5-25, try it and you can add the prism if required/desired later.
My 338LM had a different optic in the beginning and on my first outing to 1 mile+ there wasn't nearly the advertised elevation range. I had all the 20.5 mrad dialed in and had to use the hashmark reticle to get the rest. That proved problematic, as the 30" barrel (plus 5-port brake) shadowed the lower hand of the optic. So that should be considered as well.

 

[ShaunBrady]

I was thinking of just a 20 degree rail because most of my shooting would be at 200 and 300 yards and going out to a mile when invited up to the ranch.

That'll be moa rather than degree. The 7-35 ATACR has more than the advertised adjustment. I have one on 50 moa worth of rail and mount that gives 30 mils of adjustment from the 100 yard zero. The image is noticeably degraded at 100 yards. It wasn't nearly as degraded with just a 30 moa base. If you try to preserve the image at 100 yards, the degradation moves to the longer ranges. Splitting the 1 mile drop in half and using that value for the base, gives 30-35 moa.

300 yards with a 338 Lapua Improved is like spinning donuts in the parking lot with a race car. Probably don't want to do it with fresh tires. The barrel is the tires if the metaphor isn't clear.

The Wedge or Charlie Tarac values are usually selected near the scope's available elevation from a 100 yard zero. I have the 30 mil versions. If you're determined to have an optically centered at 100 yards scope shoot a mile, the 15 mil version would be what you're after. Most have moved away from scope mounting their elevation adders, but the much lighter NF Wedge would be better than the Charlie Tarac if it had to be on the scope. The elevation adders introduce windage if they're not aligned with the turret. The long Mirage ULR rails are the simplest way to minimize that. I have rails on the top of enclosed forends for mine. Night vision mounts are another popular option.

I have both the 5-25 and 7-35 ATACRs, a 5-42 March FX, and two of the Gen 3 Razors. The Razors have by far the clearest image on a 50+moa base.

 

[ShaunBrady]

338Imp doesn't have the horsepower for 2 miles. Jackie will have all he needs in his scope for the effective range of that caliber with a 40 base.

The default 2 mile round is a 375CT shooting a 400 grain Lazer at 2950 - 3000 fps. Generally closer to the 2950. If you can't win the KO2M with that, the problem isn't the bullet or it's velocity.

The G7 for the 400 grain Lazer is ~0.450. So are the 338 300 grain and 30 250 grain ATips.

2950 fps from a 30-32" 338 Lapua Improved isn't stretching things too far.

This is short of 2 miles by 200 yards, but it illustrates the point.

NotQuite2Mwitha30

7-35 ATACR w/ 30 mil Wedge for optics

 

[ShaunBrady]

At what distant does a FFP become desirable.?

Generally, it's not as much a distance thing as a technique one. The techniques and strategies used by shooters that don't spend a lot of time on traditional ranges are dependent on the FFP. If you don't have spotting discs or etargets, keeping track of your recent past hits on a subtended reticle is easier than with a simple fine crosshair. It's a bit like a clean sheet of white paper you can't actually write on vs a green engineering pad with a grid that's highlighted every 5 lines. FFP dominates PRS and ELR shooting because of the techniques it facilitates. The scope itself won't help much by itself.

If you want to learn the tactics and techniques that have evolved for ELR, a FFP scope is the way to go.

If you want to shoot steel at a mile with the inlaws a few times a year and rely on well practiced techniques developed with one of the 1000 yard disciplines, I suggest you stick with what you know and skip the FFP/SFP culture wars.

 

[Retired shooter]

That'll be moa rather than degree. The 7-35 ATACR has more than the advertised adjustment. I have one on 50 moa worth of rail and mount that gives 30 mils of adjustment from the 100 yard zero. The image is noticeably degraded at 100 yards. It wasn't nearly as degraded with just a 30 moa base. If you try to preserve the image at 100 yards, the degradation moves to the longer ranges. Splitting the 1 mile drop in half and using that value for the base, gives 30-35 moa.

300 yards with a 338 Lapua Improved is like spinning donuts in the parking lot with a race car. Probably don't want to do it with fresh tires. The barrel is the tires if the metaphor isn't clear.

The Wedge or Charlie Tarac values are usually selected near the scope's available elevation from a 100 yard zero. I have the 30 mil versions. If you're determined to have an optically centered at 100 yards scope shoot a mile, the 15 mil version would be what you're after. Most have moved away from scope mounting their elevation adders, but the much lighter NF Wedge would be better than the Charlie Tarac if it had to be on the scope. The elevation adders introduce windage if they're not aligned with the turret. The long Mirage ULR rails are the simplest way to minimize that. I have rails on the top of enclosed forends for mine. Night vision mounts are another popular option.

I have both the 5-25 and 7-35 ATACRs, a 5-42 March FX, and two of the Gen 3 Razors. The Razors have by far the clearest image on a 50+moa base.

Shaun
I assume from your comment "The Razors have by far the clearest image on a 50+moa base.) You believe the Gen 3 delivers all the needed requirements for 1 mile & more. Plenty of needed MOA or Mil elevation.

Thank you.

 

[ShaunBrady]

That generic 30/33/375 caliber .450 G7 bullet needs 15 mils at sea level to reach a mile. The Gen 3 has 36 mils of travel and will do it on a flat base.

The reticle has everything I need and nothing I don't use.

I like the style of lock on the turrets.

Slipping the turrets is particularly easy.

With 50ish moa of base, it can be set up for a 100 yard zero and still be a few mils from either topping out or bottoming the elevation turret. Tracking can suffer if the scope is set up too close to the end of the travel so having a few mils available on both ends is a good idea. Set up to make available 30 mils of elevation above the 100 yard zero, 30 mil steps with elevation adders are intuitive. The zero stop is pretty much redundant when they're set up like this.

For 2 miles, that generic ELR load needs 65 mils at sea level, 55 mils at the DA of 4700 feet the video was shot at, and 50 mils at KO2M conditions.

The ATACRs are justifiably extremely popular ELR scopes. Finding them under MAP is tough. I'm not a fan of the 12 mil/turn turrets.

 

[Retired shooter]

That generic 30/33/375 caliber .450 G7 bullet needs 15 mils at sea level to reach a mile. The Gen 3 has 36 mils of travel and will do it on a flat base.

The reticle has everything I need and nothing I don't use.

I like the style of lock on the turrets.

Slipping the turrets is particularly easy.

With 50ish moa of base, it can be set up for a 100 yard zero and still be a few mils from either topping out or bottoming the elevation turret. Tracking can suffer if the scope is set up too close to the end of the travel so having a few mils available on both ends is a good idea. Set up to make available 30 mils of elevation above the 100 yard zero, 30 mil steps with elevation adders are intuitive. The zero stop is pretty much redundant when they're set up like this.

For 2 miles, that generic ELR load needs 65 mils at sea level, 55 mils at the DA of 4700 feet the video was shot at, and 50 mils at KO2M conditions.

The ATACRs are justifiably extremely popular ELR scopes. Finding them under MAP is tough. I'm not a fan of the 12 mil/turn turrets.

Thank you ,
That's the kind of information I was looking for.!

To a a great day!