"New" Type Baffle for Progressive Presses

[waltk]

Hello Members

I recently ordered a Hornady LNL progressive press. Don't even have the press yet but I ordered a
"new" style baffle for it. Got the lead from the Bullseye L forum. The gentleman there claims that
the baffle helped improve the powder charge consistency with his Dillon 1050. But also he stated that he uses Bullseye powder and YMMV. Ordered it from a outfit name of Big Bike Parts. Costs about $ 13.95 with shipping. It is available for various brands. I figured what the heck. It's worth a try. Anything to help improve charge weigh consistency. I'll give it a try with Varget and/or RL 15 first . If it doesn't work out I'll try CFE, Ar Comp, or even 748 for my .223 ( Service Rifle).

 

[CatShooter]

You will see no improvement...

 

[waltk]

Don't crush my hope! (LOL)
You might be absolutely correct. But for fourteen bucks I'll give it a shot.

 

[amlevin]

A baffle is a good thing in a powder measure to help consistency of charge weights but in the end it's really boils down to the shape of the powder granule and how it works with the metering device.

If you want an inexpensive powder baffle that works as good as any check out Uncle Nick's do it yourself powder baffle templates here:

http://www.shootersforum.com/attachments/handloading-equipment/10528d1320785845-powder-measures-powder_baffle_instructions_and_templates.pdf

A bucks worth of aluminum sheet (I used a piece cut from a piece of dryer vent pipe), a little glue, some "snips", and a little patience. Bingo----you have a baffle. For even better results, stack two or three at 90 degree angles to the other(s).

 

[waltk]

Hello Amlevin

Thank you very much for the info. Good stuff.
Will definitely save and keep in mind for down the road.

Walt

 

[rtpnc]

A baffle is a good thing in a powder measure to help consistency of charge weights but in the end it's really boils down to the shape of the powder granule and how it works with the metering device.

If you want an inexpensive powder baffle that works as good as any check out Uncle Nick's do it yourself powder baffle templates here:

http://www.shootersforum.com/attachments/handloading-equipment/10528d1320785845-powder-measures-powder_baffle_instructions_and_templates.pdf

A bucks worth of aluminum sheet (I used a piece cut from a piece of dryer vent pipe), a little glue, some "snips", and a little patience. Bingo----you have a baffle. For even better results, stack two or three at 90 degree angles to the other(s).

Good link.

The LnL AP already comes with a similar style of baffle (as in the PDF). Note than the PDF also mentions in some cases, adding an additional baffle may be useful, which is sort of what the 'bike parts' baffle is - a pair of baffles with 90* between the holes on the upper and lower section.

I wouldn't expect it to do much over the standard LnL baffle, but it's possible it does something with some powders. Curious to hear back once you get the press setup and compare the two. Make sure to fully de-grease the LnL PM coming from Hornady - take apart, de-grease, then soak in Dawn + water in the sink for a while, rinse, repeat, dry, then run a few # of powder through it manually.

The bigger issue with the extruded/stick powders is really more about the rotor 'crunching', but again, it's possible that double baffle has some minor improvements, not on the crunching but on ensuring the rotor void is filled more evenly by powder.

 

[amlevin]

The LnL AP already comes with a similar style of baffle (as in the PDF). Note than the PDF also mentions in some cases, adding an additional baffle may be useful, which is sort of what the 'bike parts' baffle is - a pair of baffles with 90* between the holes on the upper and lower section.

I wouldn't expect it to do much over the standard LnL baffle, but it's possible it does something with some powders. Curious to hear back once you get the press setup and compare the two. Make sure to fully de-grease the LnL PM coming from Hornady - take apart, de-grease, then soak in Dawn + water in the sink for a while, rinse, repeat, dry, then run a few # of powder through it manually.

The bigger issue with the extruded/stick powders is really more about the rotor 'crunching', but again, it's possible that double baffle has some minor improvements, not on the crunching but on ensuring the rotor void is filled more evenly by powder.

The idea of using two baffles with holes 90 degrees apart is so that the accumulated weight of the powder above the metering chamber is as uniform as possible, even as the reservoir is filled and emptied.

This uniform "weight" will definitely help with the "rat-poop" powders as the drum doesn't have powder compacted as much. This is why the "bump and throw" method is often used along with throwing several charges into a pill bottle before starting to load a string of cases. All to "fluff up" the powder above the metering device. If you only have an inch or so of powder sitting on top of the metering device and it's fairly well "fluffed up" as it passes through both baffles you don't see as much "granule cutting". At least it's reduced in my Uniflow and Dillon measures.

 

[CatShooter]

There was an article maybe 15 years ago, where baffle stuff was tested. They changed hole size and tried multi-plate baffles, and then the height of the "powder head" over the chamber.

They found that there was no advantage to multi-plate baffles, and that the best uniformity was achieved with the baffle placed so there was a 4" to 5" head of powder over the drum. It insured that the load-pressure was constant, and enough to assure a constant amount of pressure.

We put baffles at the bottom of the hoppers because it is convenient, and does not require re-filling as often... but for maximum accuracy, it is the worst place to put it.

 

[waltk]

Interesting. But I don't quite understand. Are you saying that there should be 4 to 5 inches of powder above the drum and then the baffle? Then what? Another 4 to 5 inches of powder above that? And just how high is the powder tube to be?

 

[CatShooter]

Interesting. But I don't quite understand. Are you saying that there should be 4 to 5 inches of powder above the drum and then the baffle? Then what? Another 4 to 5 inches of powder above that? And just how high is the powder tube to be?

That is why people put the baffles down low... for convenience.

Redding and Hornady have looooong powder tubes available - the other guys might also.

 

[amlevin]

We put baffles at the bottom of the hoppers because it is convenient, and does not require re-filling as often... but for maximum accuracy, it is the worst place to put it.

Then again, it really only matters what results the individual user gets. If all their powder charges are nice and accurate, what difference does it make what a "study' said 15 years ago?

I guess it all boils down to the powder type and users "environment'.

As for multiple baffles really making any difference? Isn't that pretty standard in our "sport" where we do a lot of things that really have no appreciable effect on the outcome 8)