New to the forums and to F Class TR.

[Glenny_g]

Hey Gents,

I have been reading up about F Class TR and will be heading to the range over the next few weekends. I have a few questions but i will lay out my situation.

I have a Tikka T3 lite in .223 1 in 12 twist with a manners T4 MCS stock that will hold well under 1moa at 100m and about 1.5 moa out to 300m with 55 grain winchester white box factory loads. I have shot out to about 550m and was hitting a 9inch grinder blade pretty easily. I will be stuck with the 1 in 12 twist for the time being untill some more cash is available.

All the ranges close to me down here in Australia shoot mainly to 600m.
I am also about to buy my first press and start reloading.

My first question is at these ranges am i better of going for the heviest bullet i can fire from the 1 in 12 twist.(Berger .224 64 grain hp flat base .297 BC) of stick with the faster 55 grainers with a lower BC? Or can i go even hevier as i have read of some people saying that they use 70gr bullets in a 1 in 12????

My second question is about having my rifle accurized. Will this break the rules of F Class TR? and value for money what should i have done?

My last question is about how the matches are shot. Are all your strings fired at the one range or do you fire each string at different ranges?

Cheers
Glenn

 

[HillbillySniper]

I would go with the heavier slug and higher BC. It'll help you down range and even tho it is a 223 it'll cut thru a tad be more wind with the heavier slug.


Hillbilly

 

[Taildrag15X]

+1 for the best BC possible with your 1-12" twist, you'll learn wind skills and get a good feel for the sport.

As far as how the Matches are shot Downunder you may want to check the Programs of the Matches or look about the Australian F-Class Forums here:

http://www.ozfclass.com/

 

[1000yardstare]

Glenny_g.......welcome to the Forum.

Be aware that most of the members of this Forum shoot in the USA under their NRA rules which means shooting single string on a 10 ring target with a 1/2 minute X-ring for F Class.

Aussies, Brits and Canucks shoot on a 5 ring target with a 1/2 minute V-ring. We shoot in twos or threes alternating shots which has the effect of giving longer barrel life.

Sometimes you have to interpret reports from U.S. shooters as to scores and technical rules as to how they relate to your Aussie rules.

My Ontario Rifle Association is buying ICFRA targets from Australia. Major competitions in all countries except the U.S. are shot on the ICFRA targets now. Check with your range officials as to the type of target you will be practising on. In a mixed Palma/F Class practise you might all be shooting on the Palma target with one minute V-ring.

The range officials will determine the course of fire for a practise and a match. Check the programme beforehand so you understand what will be expected of you during the course of a day. Each day may be different.

Good luck with your shooting.

Bill

 

[Killshot]

Glenn,
Welcome. Our F/TR usually shoots matches at 300,500,600,800 yards - 3 X 600 - 800,900,1K.
You move to each yard line to shoot your relay.
Shots vary from 10 to 20 per string.
I'd try hard to get some 69gr SMKs to work in that 1/12, they'd be okay out to 600.
As you already know, that's not a favored twist-rate for distance. (no flames, please ;D)
As long as the round itself isn't modified (Ie: Ackelyized shoulder) anything goes on the gun.

 

[Glenny_g]

Wow thanks for the help guys.

I was able to get out for a shot after work today and had a bit of a practice session at 300m. It was very windy and was just trying to take my shots when the wind died down. At first i was a little inconsistent and hitting the gong but after a while was dropping most of my shots under 2 MOA. This was great but it raised more questions than it answered. Although my trigger is dialled down to 2 pound, i found poor trigger control was having a worse affect than the wind.

What trigger wieght would you recomend for a F class TR?

Should i have my scope zeroed at 300m?

What power scope would you recomend for a .223 that will only be used seriously out to 600m?
(Currently just a nikon 4.5-14-44)

Cheers Glenn

 

[Killshot]

Mine breaks at 6oz, some are as low as 2oz. Two lbs is a tad heavy for a target-only gun, IMHO. YMMV.

Zero what you shoot. Matches, load development etc are your guide here. But a good-tracking scope should allow you to go back to 100 and then up with little problem.

Magnification is up to you. Lots of 8-32 and 12-42 Nightforces on the line where I shoot.

 

[Glenny_g]

Thanks for the replies fellas.

I purchased a lee reloading kit to learn how to reload on and also got a set of .223 lee deluxe dies. I loaded up about 60 69grain SMK's. but i found that the center pin of the neck size die is exactly .223 in diameter and when i use the length die to seat my projectile it only just holds the projectile and even found some rounds would slide in and out with just the lightest push. So needless to say im going to take the dies back.

Would i be better of just getting the 2xRCBS die kit that only has the neck sizing and bullet seating die or should i just get a new set of the lees as they have the full length sizing die?

What would also be a good process to find out the best OAL for my reloads?

Once again thanks for all the help as the Aussie forums are painfully slow.

Cheers

 

[1000yardstare]

Glenny_g..........are you magazine loading or single feeding your Tikka? If from the magazine this may determine your COAL.

Another option for Lee dies is the collet sizing die which neck sizes by squeezing the neck against a mandrel. You can adjust the amount of squeeze.

I went through all the iterations, RCBS FL, Forster FL, Lee collet and have settled on a Redding FL bushing die. Finally getting what I want.

Bill

 

[Killshot]

Would i be better of just getting the 2xRCBS die kit that only has the neck sizing and bullet seating die or should i just get a new set of the lees as they have the full length sizing die?

The Redding Type S Full-Length Bushing dies are the way to go.

What would also be a good process to find out the best OAL for my reloads?

The Hornady OAL gauge with a modified case is probably the most common way.