• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

New to reloading, need some help.

Lucius Willson

Last week I bought a savage 110 ba stealth in 300 wm. I would like to start reloading so while I was at Sportsmans warehouse I bought I package deal that included the Hornady lock-n-load classic kit, tumbler, and case trimmer. I also bought 300 wm full size resizing dies.

My question is what other equipment do I need to successfully reload the 300 wm. I will only be shooting the 300 out of this gun.

Additionally, because I am only using this gun will full-size dies be better or neck.

Thanks for your help.
 
Buy several reloading manuals and do your homework. They will teach you the basics and show the tools you will need to get started, along with load data. I use the Berger, Nosler and Sierra manuals.
 
At the very minimum, a press, resizing and seating dies, case length trimmer, primer seating tool, inside and outside chamfering tools, a powder funnel, a cheap powder trickler, a caliper for measurements, and a good scale. Inexpensive beam scales will work. DO NOT get the Lee beam scale! That will get you started. Lee tools are about the least expensive and work. Better dies like Forster would be a plus along with a better scale. A GemPro electronic scale will read to +/- .02 grains 99% of the time. Probably full length dies would be best. A cheap neck resizing die would be a Lee collet die and they are reasonably accurate. Later on you can add or upgrade as you need to.
 
Your kit has everything you have to have except the dies. If it were me, I would start with a set of Lee Full Length dies. Your kit has a powder measure and an electronic scale. I would get the Lee Safety Scale as well. If you add stronger magnets to damper it better, it works really well. (Check out YouTube for a video on this) It appears they provide a CD instead of a paper manual. Watch this video several times. Make notes on each step as you watch. Get at least one good manual. I would select the one made by the bullet manufacturer that I planned to use.

As already mentioned, I would get a 6" caliper. This is primarily for measuring brass and loaded rounds. I would also suggest a Hornady Comparator or Headspace Gauge. The comparator will work for several calibers where the headspace gauge is caliber specific. Either will work and they both do the same thing.

One caution that I learned the hard way. I have not seen this mentioned in any of the reloading manuals. When you measure your brass for overall length or for shoulder set-back make sure you de-prime the brass first. The spent primer will be raised above the case head and will give you an error. Based on this, I would probably get a universal de-priming die so I can accurately measure my base to shoulder length before re-sizing.

For the first two reloadings, set your full length die so that it just sizes the neck without touching the shoulder. It usually takes 3 firings to fire-form your case to your chamber. Measure the base to shoulder at this time and record it (Comparator or headspace gauge). You want to set your full length die to set the shoulder back no more than .002". Start with your die set long and slowly screw it in, running the case up into the die each time you adjust it then measuring the base to shoulder again, until you reach the desired amount of set back.

Use full length dies and your cases will be the same each time you load/fire them. This adds to consistency. Once you determine your load, consistency is the key.
 
The Lyman reloading manual is the first one to get. It has the most diverse selection of powders and bullets. If the manual is put out by a powder company or a bullet company then all info will be using only those components.
 
Lucius Willson said:
Last week I bought a savage 110 ba stealth in 300 wm. I would like to start reloading so while I was at Sportsmans warehouse I bought I package deal that included the Hornady lock-n-load classic kit, tumbler, and case trimmer. I also bought 300 wm full size resizing dies.

My question is what other equipment do I need to successfully reload the 300 wm. I will only be shooting the 300 out of this gun.

Additionally, because I am only using this gun will full-size dies be better or neck.

Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
I would like to give you one small word of caution, everyone here will tell you to follow recipes in the books and not to exceed them. That is the given. But the one mistake I see the most often is that new reloaders have no idea how important it is to trim thier brass. Believe me, it will get you into trouble fast!

The neck of the case protruding into the space where only the bullet should be will pinch the bullet like a collet and an otherwise normal load will blow primers or worse.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looking at the kit, I see no powder scale. I believe since you are just starting to keep it simple. Full length size until you get a good grasp on what you are doing. I rarely neck size. The first thing I would buy is a stuck case remover. I do not care for the One Shot lube. Had more stuck cases with it than anything else I used. As many others have noted a caliper and trimmer..
 
I would like to thank everyone who has responded. Here is a list of everything I have or have ordered:
Hornady lock n load classic
- chamfering and deburring tool
- Single stage press
- Powder measure
- Hornady handbook
- electronic scale
- Primer catcher
- Positive priming system
- Hand-Held primi
- One shot lube
300 winchester magnum hornady custom grade 2 die set
hornady OAL gauge
hornady 300 wm modifies case
hornady headspace gauge with comparator body
30 cal insert for comparator
Lyman 300wm ammo checker

Again I will be shooting the 300 wm out of 1 gun only. Is there anything I could possibly be missing. I will be adding more loading manuals as I go.
 
Basic is what he needs. He is brand new and should not neck size only. You want a Press, Dies (full length), powder scale, powder funnel and a means to prime your cases plus the afore mentioned Reloading Manual(s). Case lube(One Shot) and chamfering tool You can get by with out the manuals by going to Manufacturer websites and loading to the suggested length they state. Once you get the hang of things you can start loading/seating the bullets longer to look for best accuracy. Finding the powder charge your barrel shoots the best with. Hint it usually is not a maximum charge for a given powder.
 
Word of caution......I agree...FL size your brass, but , if the instructions that came with your FL die tell you to raise the ram and turn the die down in the press till the die hits the shell holder, THROW THE INSTRUCTIONS AWAY! Research on this fourm the PROPER way to set up your die in the press...or simply ask us.

Good luck, and welcome,
Tod
 
With the One Shot case lube, make sure you follow the directions: lay the cases out (preferably with the case mouths towards you so you get some lube in the mouth), spray lightly, roll the cases halfway over, and lightly spray again. Then, make sure you wait a couple of minutes before sizing (you may have problems with stuck cases if you don't wait, which will entail purchasing or assembling a stuck case removal kit before you can continue loading.)

I prefer using Royal case lube or Imperial sizing wax, but they're a lot messier, and need to cleaned up afterwards (which one shot doesn't, according to Hornady.)
 
On page 5 or 6 in the tool die sale forum alf has two 50 count Winchester brand .300 wm. Brass for sale. There is also a Lee die set on page 2, it is new with a colet die for neck sizing at a good price.
 
Last edited:
So much load info is online for free, no need to purchase multiple manuals IMO.
If you're just starting out, watch YouTube videos from reputable sources to get an understanding of how things work. A video is worth 1,000,000 words.
 
Start simple.

Use the dies you already have.

You can use Full Length sizing dies to neck size.

For belted magnums it's very important not to over size the case (bump the shoulder down too far) because this will make the case stretch above the belt when fired. This is why we love using the headspace comparators no matter what cartridge we're reloading. But for a few reloads you'll be OK.

If the KIT you got came with a manual then read the instructions on how to reload. If not, then get yourself a manual.
Plenty of youtube videos on beginner reloading so watch as many as you can and find the common denominator from their advice.

ALWAY start near the minimum recommended powder weight and work up in 0.5gr increments to find your accuracy node. I do not recommend loading lower than the recommended minimums.

Hodgdon has their reloading data online, same as Nosler, Alliant and Vihtavouri.

Never take someone's load from the internet and assume it will be safe in your rifle using your components.

Triple check everything. Then triple check it again.
 
An excellent way to get started (in addition to all the great suggestions already listed) is to find someone in your area, and spend a couple of hours watching them reload, and asking them questions. Seeing things is an excellent way to learn. Videos are also good, but it can be a challenge to find the ones that help you, for what you need.
 
Lucius Willson said:
I would like to thank everyone who has responded. Here is a list of everything I have or have ordered:
Hornady lock n load classic
- chamfering and deburring tool
- Single stage press
- Powder measure
- Hornady handbook
- electronic scale
- Primer catcher
- Positive priming system
- Hand-Held primi
- One shot lube
300 winchester magnum hornady custom grade 2 die set
hornady OAL gauge
hornady 300 wm modifies case
hornady headspace gauge with comparator body
30 cal insert for comparator
Lyman 300wm ammo checker

Again I will be shooting the 300 wm out of 1 gun only. Is there anything I could possibly be missing. I will be adding more loading manuals as I go.
Click to expand...

I don't see a trimmer mentioned in the list. The LEE Trimmer is a pilot with a cutter and a shell holder that screws onto a stud that can be chucked into a drill. It is simple, cheap, accurate and durable. For small batches it is perfect and it takes up almost no space.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

7mm Dies w/37 deg Shoulder on 300WM Parent Case
Replies
6
Views
6,242
chuckhammer
Resizing issue- extreme pressure required
Replies
10
Views
1,088
JFrank
New Shooter
Replies
5
Views
601
kurtflys

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Classified Ads

Forum statistics

Threads
166,274
Messages
2,215,639
Members
79,518
Latest member
DixieDog

Share This Page

Back
Top