New to Neck-Only Sizing ... How to Handle New Cases?

[ronsatspokane]

Hmmm...given that I seem to disagree with at least half of what that fella suggests, from toilet bowl cleaner to "don't ever seat in the lands" ... I'm not sure that one could ask for a more ringing endorsement. Thanks!

(Just saw his video "STOP NECK SIZING YOUR BRASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" ... what's up with all the shouting, and why would he possibly care "what everybody else is doing"? Kinda reminds me of the charter captain I used to fish with who would get on the radio with bogus loran numbers to try to send other anglers -- or at least strangers who didn't know him and his tricks -- away from the bite. Less competition = more fish.)

I have done it in the past. When I first got into F Class. My scores sucked back and I had no idea why but as time went on I refined my load development technique, my shooting technique and my equipment and my scores improved. Still not at the level of some of the top shooters on this forum but there are days when I can hold my own.

Fast forward to earlier this year and I got lazy. Had 300 rounds to prep and I decided that I did not need to full length size. The cases had been fire formed the previous firing so I just neck sized them. They shot like a shotgun. Was the neck sizing a coincidence or a causative factor? I say let each person find out for themselves.

Keep in mind that when I say like a shotgun, there are many who would have been happy with the results. More than minute of deer.

 

[Mark611]

I see a lot of comments about this; I believe the OP was asking about new brass. JMO but from the first firing if all is well with case prep to start and you're shooting a bolt or single shot rifle? I would fire the case at least 3x before I did any sizing other than a neck sizing, so the cases get fully fire formed, if your firing an auto loader then a full body sizing is usually required, the reason I suggest this method is your brass will be more consistent when you set your body sizing die up for your shoulder bump which then I would size the brass every time YMMV.

 

[Lead Slanger]

For new brass, I just neck size with the Lee Collet die. Fired brass gets run through a Redding body die to size the case and bump the shoulder, then neck size with the Lee Collet die.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Just last night I pulled apart a doz rds of load testing ammo, I set the FL rcbs sizing die to only size the neck(die gutted). Then ran a dry lubed mandrel thru the necks to set the interference fit. Loaded back up to the load I found last fall. Ready for a Wyoming elk hunt.

 

[Steve Donlon]

With my brass and calibers I also FL neck size my brass. I measure every aspect of the brass before and after, and only the neck dimensions change. Never pushed the shoulder back at all. . But that is my chamber, brass and dies. You never know so I FL all of them. I don't even have to lube the brass, just inside and out side the neck. You will find out what is best with your set up. I"m not a fan of neck sizing only, better to run a mandrel after you neck size for less neck tension with my dies. I don't know if you need to FL all your brass, but it's the same amount of effort for me, because the die only touches the neck if all is well. And if not, you will know. I guess I'm just very safe, I have been around guns that have exploded from bad reloading practices. So I'm paranoid and need to think all the time now about each step.

 

[Syncrowave]

Gotta love 222 and H322 ... I thought I was done buying guns! Y'all are a bunch of enablers.

 

[Vinootz]

Nothing is written in stone, but if you compete or intend to, it’s wise to follow what the top competitors are doing. However if you are more casual about your reloading and shooting why not experiment? As long as you don’t cause run out I see no issue with neck sizing. See what works. Some times it may be better to full length(and bump), and sometimes you can neck size. Keep an eye on the base measurements as well. You may need a small base die at times. Measure everything- every time- and check run out- every time- and you should be able to determine what’s going on and what needs to be done. Using mandrels and bushings to set neck tension is good . I use different brass from starting out with factory ammo at times. For that I keep a range of 2 1/2 thousandths of mandrels; and pin gauges for verification.
I don’t mind experimenting like that . I end up finding factory ammo my rifle likes when I do that. Of course it works brass more than bushings or honing would , but I don’t care. Loose primer pockets can become a more imminent issue. Also, if a button doesn’t cause runout you can stick with that and reduce steps. These comments are for guys that aren’t as advanced. I’m one of them. I figure there’s many beginner and or non competitive shooters reading this forum for input. So I’ll take the embarrassment and speak out to them that may be apprehensive. For those folk just see what works. Watch your pressure (charges), and go have fun. Also, there are folks that can’t afford a custom rifle. No reason to not get good groups. And of course if any experts are laughing at me or need to scorn me for bad advice please have at it. I’m merely trying to be encouraging to less advanced shooters that may be apprehensive about things. I could be wrong but I’d wager there are quite few on this forum that have a hard enough time getting to a place where they can shoot to 500 yards.
Have fun- be safe.

 

[Iowa Fox]

Gotta love 222 and H322 ... I thought I was done buying guns! Y'all are a bunch of enablers.

GI surplus H322 was less than 3 bucks a pound when we started using it.

 

[209jones]

New unshot brass, I'll neck size to make sure necks are round and all sized the same. New once shot factory brass, probably just neck size it to let it all fill all the way out on second shot. That said, I'd check with a comparator to see where that part of the process stands as to CBTD lengths on it. Make sure you record every dim on your fired brass, makes troubleshooting simple if you need to do any down the road. For a hunting or comp round, I FLS once fired stuff, set the die to the longest fired case, and recheck after second firing, adj again if neccessary. Gopher rds, I'll neck to 4 or 5 shots, then FLS again, and go back to neck sizing for another 4 or 5, gun will tell you when it's time to FLS again. I only do that for my bolt and fallling blocks, break actions get FLS'd.

 

[old_heli_logger]

For new brass, I just neck size with the Lee Collet die. Fired brass gets run through a Redding body die to size the case and bump the shoulder, then neck size with the Lee Collet die.

This makes very, very straight ammo.
The Lee Collet neck sizing die is a mandrel die. You can order smaller mandrels from Lee to increase your neck tension...or you can polish yours down a little.
Good luck

 

[smithpa68]

Personal opinion is I agree with the FL sizing if pure precision is your goal. Also if you are feeding a semi auto.

I do think neck sizing has a place for something like an old 30-40 Krag. I neck size fresh brass to make sure they weren't damaged in the bag. But also, those chambers are pretty loose and worn. So it does help the brass last longer for subsequent firings. And.. in the old Krag situation, it is super easy to break down the bolt and check each case in the rifle to make sure it chambers easily.

 

[JFrank]

Staying on the original topic of how to handle NEW brass- I mandrel the neck to ease initial seating , once fired I size just enough to ensure the necks have good bullet hold , I don’t lock down a die until a case has been fired a couple times.
Just me of course