New to Accurate shooting and want to Improve

[DeadWoodDan]

Long time lurker and reader looking for advice and direction. Kind of getting back into what you would call Precision shooting. I have been "plinking" and reloading for around 8yrs now, mostly for hunting reasons. When i built my first AR it was always intended or hoped to be a MOA rifle. Unfortunelty the guy behind it wasn't. The rifle is a RRA 20" S.S. , free float tube, RRA two stage trigger, A2 stock,Harris bipod with a Simmons 44Mag mil dot scope mounted on it. Nothing compared to what most are using for competition, but hoping I can at least cosistently shoot sub-MOA groups.

I guess wanting to up my game and skill level, before purchasing another rifle I'm looking for advice. I got the itch again when reading Eric C. thread " long range load development at 100yds". I will admit I have tried both groups and ladder method when developing a load, and now believe I probably never choose the correct load and hence never could consistintly shoot a three shoot MOA group. So now back to load development and hoping I can improve on what I have.

Any suggestions on where to begin with proper holding methods, or ensuring I take as much human error out of the equation as possible. Currently use a lead sled.

No clubs that I know of in the area ( Bloomington IL ) that shoot long distance ( 300yds +) . I can easily shoot 200yds and more out my back door depending on time of year and what crops are planted.

Thanks for advice and direction
Kevin

 

[stool]

is this with the rr 20' OR SOMETHING ELSE ?
IS THE 20' a 1/8 or 1/9 ?
what reloading gear do you have now ??
what scale
what dies
what press
a digital or dial caliper ?
stoney point type over all length gauges for bullet seating and case shoulder set back ??

what powders are on hand and what bullets

 

[stool]

i would skip the sled and go with proper front rest rear bag.
you need to be in a comfortable position when shooting..i do not see how anyone can do the with the sled.

the frt rest should have some mass in it so it stays steady.....

 

[DeadWoodDan]

is this with the rr 20" OR SOMETHING ELSE ? Yes RRA, 20" A4 S.S. with Hogue free float tube, 1/8 twist, flash suppressor, A2 front site
IS THE 20" a 1/8 or 1/9 ? I have to be honest, been so long since I've had it not sure, but would bet 1/8, sorry could not confirm on end of barrel
what reloading gear do you have now ?? Mostly all Hornady brand with a few odd ball stuff I kept when I began and not that it matters but enough lead and molds to cast for almost every caliber I own,
what scale Hornady bench scale
what diesHor. 3 Dimension
what press Hor. L-n-L and RCBS single stage with Lyman powder drop
a digital or dial caliper ?yes , both
stoney point type over all length gauges for bullet seating and case shoulder set back ?? Hor. bullet comparator only nothing for case shoulder set back

what powders are on hand and what bullets

Win748, Varget, H335,H322,
Hor. 40 & 55gr VMax, Sierra 65gr Spitzer BT, Nosler 50gr balistic tip, Hor. 55gr FMJ
Federal Gold Match, Win., CCI's all small rifle primers

 

[DeadWoodDan]

i would skip the sled and go with proper front rest rear bag.
you need to be in a comfortable position when shooting..i do not see how anyone can do the with the sled.you are correct its not the best with the grip. I have also attempted to shoot with Harris bipod and rear bag, just thought I could eliminate my errors with sled

the frt rest should have some mass in it so it stays steady.....

Good place to start, Just want to make sure I know what you mean "proper front rest"? Is this one, Caldwell-rock-front from Midway proper? I currently have multiple shooting rest bags, three different sizes/shapes.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/412484/caldwell-rock-front-shooting-rest?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Thank you for helping

 

[Lapua40X]

this would be better.http://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-440907-Rock-BR-Rest/dp/B000S5W78A. Install the full bag not the three lobe and turn the front stop down so it don't hit the front sights base on the bottom of the barrel. Then get a good rear bag. Might want to pick up a 10 rd. magazine. The short ones not the 20 rd. with a 10 rd. block in it. Mag Pul vendors has them for 13 bucks. Randy

Ditto ...........

 

[stool]

sizing cases per the die makers instructions works, but are not in your favor in the way of accuracy and case life.
i did not ask about brass, but sort the best you can...mixed brass means mixed results.
pick a length and trim the brass to that length.( after sizing, and then deburr in and outside)
size the brass to function in your rifle...usually a 0.002 shoulder set back is fine for a quality chamber like rra...but this means you need get the rest of the stoneypoint/hornady tools.
set your sizing die so the handle goes just over top 'cams over"...this will help with size consistency.
do the same with your seating dies set up.
you are looking for consistent ogive to case base length that is still typically 2.260 oal or less. for mag feeding.

pick one bullet, one powder and work from there.
do 0.3 step changes in powder for the 223 case.
always bump the beam and allow it to resettle after adding ANY powder to the pan
of your current selection i would start with
the h322
the fed primers
the 55gr vmax or the 50 gr bt

i would buy some imr 8208, accurate 2330 or2520...imr 4895 is a pain to load in the small neck but also works well.
while some have had good luck with varget i never have, 748 works really well but is too temp sensitive..what works one day is shit the next.

with good ballistic software or book..pick a load, start low and work up to 100% pressure or a tad over...you may not shot those..you will have to decide based on how YOUR GUN BEHAVES WITH THE LOADS getting up to that point.

shoot three shot groups..with a scope....this about the load not your iron sight abilities...as little as a 3-9x QUALITY scope will work , tho more is better. try to shoot in a single wind condition...even a simple stick with a pc of surveyors tape will help.
( you can also shot a simple one shot per step ladder and look for sweet spots...but the 3 shot group stuff works well for a beginner).
i shoot lots of ar's including three in club bench rest matches, three gun comp and cmp/dcm service rifle in the past.

 

[DeadWoodDan]

Thanks stool this will help break any bad "habbits" that I have learned along the way. I have sorted by brand and weight in the past so this step is done. Have all the deburring tools even went to the limit and deburred inside flash hole.

The gray area that I need some input/help on is "size the brass to function in your rifle...usually a 0.002 shoulder set back". I have always followed the die instructions so lets improve. I already have Hor. bullet comparator, and ordering O.A.L. gage to do this. Reading this so will PM you or post if I have questions.

http://www.6mmbr.com/catalog/item/1433308/977259.htm

I may have a lb. of 4895 will need to check inventory, powder availability is hit and miss but been able to get most within a month or two of asking my supplier. I have a few reloading manuals so good there, but interested in ballistic software: do I need and what is the best? I may be interested just to get an idea of how to use it.

Something that I always wanted and yet to fund is a chronograph, just need to pull the "trigger" i guess. Noticed alot of shooters here using it to evaluate load development, and I want the best load for rifle so I can work on my shooting capabilities.

Any good pointers or threads / books on how to hold or improve my shooting methods?

thanks

 

[jonbearman]

What I would do is get a bolt on front accuracy asset which is like a small front sled that goes on your forearm to have a flat steady shooting surface. Then I would look into at least a baldeagle front rest made out of cast iron(the base) and get the top with the ears to set tension on the sides of the front bag.Get a protector rear bag,bumble bee with 3/8th's ear spacing and load it with heavy sand. I would start out with sierra 53 grain matchkings using benchmark,h322,or IMR 8208 powder with the correct primers for an ar-15. Start low and work up as stool suggested .Once you get to this point you will soon be able to tell if your barrel is up to snuff.If it isn't then get a kreiger to replace it.Its expensive but worth the ability to shoot good groups. Next get some lake city brass and do the precision prep work.With any military brass you should start at the bottom and work up as there is less volume due to thicker bases.

 

[stool]

back your sizing die out two full turns, take a fired, ready to size case. lube and size it.
take the upper off the lower, strip the bolt...no ejector...and see if the bolt will rotate in place with the sized case in the chamber.
if not( and it probably will not) turn the die down a 1/4 of a turn size another case..and do it all over.
as you go along..measure the shoulder length of each case with the hornady tool. write it down.
when the first case fits measure it log it and back the die off 1/8 of a turn and try again.
the object is to get aprox .002 clearance between the chamber to the case fit....called clearance , not headspace.
fine tune to a case between it will not close to it just did close.
while chambers have a spec they also have a tolerance of about .010...so you cannot just size to a number minus 0.002.
you need to find that number of your gun and then size another .002..

Thanks stool this will help break any bad "habbits" that I have learned along the way. I have sorted by brand and weight in the past so this step is done. Have all the deburring tools even went to the limit and deburred inside flash hole.

The gray area that I need some input/help on is "size the brass to function in your rifle...usually a 0.002 shoulder set back". I have always followed the die instructions so lets improve. I already have Hor. bullet comparator, and ordering O.A.L. gage to do this. Reading this so will PM you or post if I have questions.

http://www.6mmbr.com/catalog/item/1433308/977259.htm

I may have a lb. of 4895 will need to check inventory, powder availability is hit and miss but been able to get most within a month or two of asking my supplier. I have a few reloading manuals so good there, but interested in ballistic software: do I need and what is the best? I may be interested just to get an idea of how to use it.

Something that I always wanted and yet to fund is a chronograph, just need to pull the "trigger" i guess. Noticed alot of shooters here using it to evaluate load development, and I want the best load for rifle so I can work on my shooting capabilities.

Any good pointers or threads / books on how to hold or improve my shooting methods?

thanks