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New to 6 Dasher

Well, I was going to ask a question, but I found this in an older thread.

http://6mmar.com/site/mobile?url=http://6mmar.com/6mm_Dasher.php#2766

Figure I bring it back to life to help anyone else out.

For those of you who are shooting a dasher you have any tips of tricks? I’m new to reloading. Like brand new. Don’t want to fire form to save barrel life. I have 400 rounds of 5x fired Lapua brass. What’s brass life like on the dasher??

Rifle is used from a forum member with the following specs.

Stiller tac 30 a/w
Brux medium palma 8 twist. 5/8-24 threads
6 dasher - 400 rounds on it
Jewell trigger
Currently in an XLR but moving it over to a mcmillan HTGA with surgeon bottom metal.
Weaver Tactical 6-30x56 mil/mil
Warne mountain Tech rings
20 MOA rail

Intended use is PRS and deer hunting in GA. Thanks for taking the time to read my thread. Any extra help is greatly appreciated.
 
Sierra 107SMK’s, Berger 105 Hybrids or 108. RL16 or Varget. RL16 gives a little more speed w less pressure. Both are very accurate. 450 primer.

For deer I like the 95 Partition but there are plenty of good 6mm deer bullets.
 
105 Hybrids, 450 primers, Varget in the low/middle 32 grain range, velocity somewhere around 2930 to 2950 from a 26" barrel. That's a pretty standard go-to PRS load.

Read up on reloading technique to make sure you do it right and don't trash the brass. It should last a long time provided you don't over bump the shoulder or run too high pressure loads. My PRS Dasher brass is on 13 firings and going strong. Hopefully the brass you have was already fired in your current barrel and/or is a good fit to your chamber.
 
Has the brass been neck turned? Do you have a tight neck chamber?

I’ll Fire form with 30gr of Varget, 400 primer and with a jammed cheap bullet.

33 grains of Varget with 450 primers and 105 Hybrids always worked well for me

Don’t push the brass to hard, anneal it and it will last a very long time.

Good Shooting
Rich
 
You still need to fireform your hydroformed brass :)

I sent 300 pieces of brass to DJ and 30+ are junk and primers are falling out. +10 split at the shoulder on first firing. Never again. I know other have had good luck, but that was my experience. I will likely just jam and shoot from now. I might try some Hunt's brass. I think the weakest link in the Dasher is the brass.

Don't chase speed to much. It will still shoot great, then you will be buying $300-$500 in new brass. Listen to Sheldon. I hope to get around 10 firings. My last batch of brass started to get so mushy that I had bolt super tight bolt lift, I knew it was dead then.
 
What’s meant by jam bullets and shoot? I thought you just load normal and shoot.

Also, @Jet it’s standard neck. Do I anneal the neck and shoulder after every firing? That’s a basic reloading question just not specific to the dasher...lol. I’m a huge newb.
 
Seat your bullets long, meaning, beyond touching the lands. This will keep the brass bass tight against the bolt face.

Disregard the annealing remark. Without understanding how it is done, recommend you do not do it.

Can you find a precision reloading mentor in your area?
 
What’s meant by jam bullets and shoot? I thought you just load normal and shoot.

No, you need to bullet loaded long so it jams against the rifling and pushes the case head against the bolt face. Also if it has a spring loaded plunger ejector, take that out too. I jam a lot, .060"-.080". Keep you lugs lubed well. Not jamming is asking for miss fires and disaster.

The other way to do it is neck up to 25 or 6.5 and then neck it down for a shoulder to give a slight crush fit.

Here's a forum article on both ways.
http://www.6mmbr.com/6improvedform.html
 
I have been shooting the 115 DTACs with H4895. They shoot 1/4 moa (when I do) and like 2835 to 2850 fps. One thing I found is that after forming, I needed to really anneal the shoulder. If I didn't anneal it fully after the initial firing, I wasn't able to control/limit shoulder bump well. I was having to bump shoulders 5 thousandths (measured with a Hornady gage) to get the bolt to close freely. Once I made sure I had a full anneal, the "issue" went away.
 

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