New to .223 reloading

[Cowsnsand]

Hi, I'm new to reloading .223. My brass is mixed, but primarily LC. I deprimed, full-length resized, removed the military crimp using a Hornady crimp remover, trimmed, deburred/chamfered, cleaned primer pockets with an RCBS brush, and primed with WSR. What I find is, the primers still sit a slightly "proud" out of the primer pockets. I noticed this when I was just checking some case lengths and they were off. When I put a straight edge across the case head and primer, you can see a tiny bit of daylight between the straight edge and the case head. Of course, I don't want to have a slam fire and I would like my hand loads to be as accurate as possible. Should I be using a pocket uniformer also.

Second question, is it futile to expect to be able to throw accurate charges of Varget with a Hornady powder drop?

Thanks.

 

[Bill K]

If you are loading for a AR, then yes get a good primer pocket reamer, that also de-crimps, or do the process with two tools/steps.
A powder measure will work well for throwing pretty accurate charges, but still, good practice, to double check and weigh, about ever fifth drop, with a scale to make sure it is doing well in dropping with 1/10 on each load.
Take it slow, easy and play safe.

 

[joshb]

Second question first:
One of my favorite powders for the 223 is H335. It’s a ball powder. I get great accuracy with 50-69 grain bullets and it meters like a dream. The trick about it is the “force” you use on your thrower. It has to be consistent.
Say I’m looking to make 1000 rounds of good plinking ammo. I test a bunch of loads in my gun, looking for the best load that is well BELOW the MAX load in the book. 2 grains is a nice cushion.
Then, I tune my thrower to that charge. Again, use the same motion every time. If you do a hard bang on the down stroke, then do a soft touch on the down stroke, you’ll get a different amount of powder in the pan. Try it to see what I mean. Throw and weigh, throw and weigh. It may take 20-30 throws to get dialed in.
When I get dialed in, I throw 50 cases. I’ll weigh every 5th, to check. If it’s good, I’ll throw another 50 and only weigh every tenth.
Now I have 100 cases charged and I’ll put the bullets in them. That done, I go back to throwing, BUT!!! I don’t use the first charge I throw. The vibration from using the press to load my bullets has compacted the powder in the thrower.
I start a whole new cycle. Check every 5th, etc.
Pretty quickly, I have a thousand rounds loaded!
You can also look at other ball powders. BL-C2 has worked well for me.
Good luck!

 

[robert8904]

Those proud primers won't do. Slam fire is a possibility but misfire is more likely. A press mounted uniformer is inexpensive, gets rid of the crimp and uniforms the primer pocket in one easy operation. I don't have a Hornady powder drop but extruded powders like Varget usually need weighing with a charge master type device especially in the fairly small charges for a 223.

 

[Doom]

There are a number of extruded powders that work well in 223 and meter better than Varget. H322, Benchmark, and IMR 8208 come to mind. The ball/spherical powders do very well in 223, you just need to be aware of their temperature sensitivity.

 

[AJC]

I think maybe the least expensive and best thing to start with would be to get a primer pocket measuring tool to see if your pockets are the right size and the right depth. Then you may go forward knowing what the correct operation needs to be. You may find that your pockets are the right size and you just need to put a little more Force on the seating tool. You may also find that your pockets are too shallow and more force on the tool will just damage the primer.

 

[boltman13]

Removing the crimp from military primer pockets is a boring tedious process and you may get some inconsistent results. I used a Lyman hand tool and it seamed like it took forever to get the job done. I then used a Sinclair hand tool to uniform the pocket and if it seamed like it was harder to do that I went back to the decrimping tool some more. The final result was worth the effort for my High Power AR-15 loads however. If you are using an AR-15 with your loads be very sure you have seated the primer to the bottom. Winchester SRP's are softer and are known to give slam fires even when seated correctly. I would use Rem 7 1/2's. I had excellent results with a Redding BR30 powder measure, Varget, and consistent technique. I did 2 light taps at the top when the chamber fills and 2 light taps at the bottom when it empties. Other techniques may work just as well but always do it the same way. This worked well for short line loads, and reduced course loads, but I weighed each load for the 600 yard stage when shooting across the course. As others have stated, however, Ball powder will be even more consistent. Best of luck.

 

[RegionRat]

Primers sticking up is a No-Go rejection.
You mentioned some detail steps, like the deburr of that crimp, however, what tool/method did you use to seat the primers?
If some stick up and some don’t, there are good odds it was seating technique and not just the deburr workmanship. Some tools and methods make it harder or easier to get a full seat when a primer hangs up on a tight pocket or burr.

If possible, measure ones that look right to you using the tail stock of your caliper. If for example you are seeing 3 mils depth, lets call that your target goal for the “bad” ones.

Tool permitting, take another crack at seating those high ones deeper and see what happens. Wear your eye and ear pro, there are always risks seating primers and this is a case when the risks are highest.

If a good try doesn’t put these high ones in family, it is time to take them apart and see if you can spot why, then correct the pockets and try again.

Try to use the family of primers known to be safer in a semi-auto. The mil-spec primers or something like a REM 7 1/2 for the long line loads are a safer bet.

If you have actual shallow pockets, it would be rare but correctable with something like the Sinclair primer pocket uniforming tool that cuts the bottom to spec and cleans the radius. Most times, you won’t need this step, but having the tools ready means you keep rolling and don’t shut down and wait.

 

[CharlieNC]

You can find fully prepped once fired brass at a good price, and frequently new LC bulk bags too. Not worth the effort to prep military brass.

 

[K22]

I don't shoot AR's but I get about 15 to 17 reloads out of cases with my bolt 223 Rem's. If you consider that number of reloads you amortize the costs of 50 cases to a few cents per reload.

I always start with new unfired brass and dedicate those cases to a specific rifle. It a good way to avoid problems. In addition the cases are the same lot and brand which aids in producing precise reloads and especially aids in better consistency in sizing.

Just something to consider in the future.

 

[243winxb]

When I put a straight edge across the case head and primer, you can see a tiny bit of daylight between the straight edge and the case head

Edit- not ok.

SAAMI-

PRIMERS TO BE SEATED FLUSH TO 0.008” (0.20)
BELOW FACE OF CARTRIDGE CASE HEAD

 

[2506]

Here is one of the best tips that I was given and will pass on to you if you are shooting an AR. Get you a brass catcher. Why spend all that time prepping cases and then loose a bunch in the grass or if shooting matches you usually don't have time to pick them up.

 

[Texas10]

Please tell us what you're shooting. If a gas operated gun and you're loading 20+ round magazines full of soft primers that are sitting proud, I want to be somewhere far, far away from you when it goes full auto or out of battery. Not being hard on you, I'm an old cat and just don't have 9 lives left anymore. If you're not shooting an AR, then no problem.

Edit: I think I came off a bit snotty. With apologies to the OP.

 

[Liven The Dream]

New LC Brass is a deal .
Having said that,it needs work out of the Bag !

I just ram 500 New 2018 LC. I ran it thru a RCBS SB Die . That did repair the necks, some bodies changed as well .
I could fell and see the difference in before and after sizing.
The OAL of the the Brass before sizing and after was amazing ? a lot of cases .005 to .008 over Trim length .
The flash holes very nice.

I weight checked this lot of LC to find it lighter than New Winchester Blue bag ??

This all for a AR Match Rifle .

 

[jghoghunter]

Please tell us what damn gun you're shooting and where you're shooting it. If a gas operated gun and you're loading 20+ round magazines full of soft primers that are sitting proud, I want to be somewhere far, far away from you when it goes full auto or out of battery. Not being hard on you, I'm an old cat and just don't have 9 lives left anymore. If you're not shooting an AR, then no problem.

Why do you have to be a dick? There are plenty of ways to say what you said without being an ass. The mans here asking a question. Remember when you were a young cat and had questions about stuff? What did you do, you asked someone. That is what this guy is doing. Don't accuse me of being soft or "pc" or trying to protect his feelings. Anyone who knows me will know that is not the case. There are just better ways to say the same thing. It makes you look more intelligent and he realizes that there are dangers to what he is doing currently.

 

[243winxb]

, I don't want to have a slam fire

Bolt actions dont slam fire do they? Let me guess, No. lol

When primers give me a hard time, i mash them in with the RCBS Ram Prime Unit on my single stage press.

I did break down finely and buy a Redding primer pocket uniformer for the 38 special brass.

 

[Texas10]

Why do you have to be a dick? There are plenty of ways to say what you said with being an ass. The mans here asking a question. Remember when you were a young cat and had questions about stuff? What did you do, you asked someone. That is what this guy is doing. Don't accuse me of being soft or "pc" or trying to protect his feelings. Anyone who knows me will know that is not the case. There are just better ways to say the same thing. It makes you look more intelligent and he realizes that there are dangers to what he is doing currently.

My apologies to the OP and my fellow enthusiasts if I came off as dick. I didn't intend to offend but did want to call out the danger of what he is doing, as a new reloader. He didn't say what gun he is shooting, others mention an AR. As I mention as I closed, a bolt action is not going to be much issue with regard to high primers. However an AR with a floating firing pin and soft primes is a recipe for a disaster. That's why CCI makes #41 primers, and Federal makes the GMM 205AR, with a harder cup.

So if I seemed to have worded that a bit strong, perhaps it's because I've seen more blood at the firing range than I've cared to.

Again, my apologies to any I've offended, and I've amended by post.

 

[243winxb]

Swagers- On some brass, different lots , the web thickness is different.
This may leave some shallow pockets, if tool is not adjusted correctly.

Remember, the primer can be .008" below the case head.
But, firing pin protrusion of ARs is not as long/great as some bolt actions. So dont over do it.

Old internet photo.

 

[Cowsnsand]

Please tell us what you're shooting. If a gas operated gun and you're loading 20+ round magazines full of soft primers that are sitting proud, I want to be somewhere far, far away from you when it goes full auto or out of battery. Not being hard on you, I'm an old cat and just don't have 9 lives left anymore. If you're not shooting an AR, then no problem.

Edit: I think I came off a bit snotty. With apologies to the OP.

Don't worry about it and I appreciate everybody looking out for the new guy. Onward...

Shooting an AR. Something else--I'm priming using the Hornady hand primer that came with my Lock-n-Load. Are they known for not seating primers deep enough? Thanks.

 

[Doubs43]

For over 40 years I've used the RCBS primer pocket crimp removing tools. It has a button that goes in the ram like a shell holder and a cup that goes over the button. A die with a rod is screwed into the press. The case is put in the die with the rod inside and the ram raised. The button swagges the crimp out and the cup pushes the case off of the button on the down stroke. Depth of the swagging is adjusted with the die. (Hint: a Q-Tip with a little oil applied to the button now and again will make the cases fall off of the button. Without the oil, they can require some force to release the cases)

I've done many, many thousands of military cases over the years with the RCBS set.

WRT primers, I've found that the priming tool can cause problems with the seating depth. If the pocket depth is a problem, Redding makes a very nice primer pocket uniforming tool.