New Stock

[kelseygress]

I just purchased a Shehane ST-1000,Desert Camo)inletted for Rem Short action, inletted for single shot, .223. Barrel is Krieger #17, 1/13" 26" long.
-Planning on using Marine Tex or DevCon? Your thoughts on either?
-Was told to use Dupont Clear Cote, is this Imron Clear cote?
-What type of sprayer for clear cote do you use? Can you use a small airbrush type to apply the clear cote?
-Do you bed under the single shot adapter or just around the adapter?
Any help would be appreciated, this is my first epoxy bedding and stock finishing project.
Thank you,
Dick Gresswell

 

[SF340Driver]

This should help a bit:

http://www.rdprecision.net/diy2.html

I would clear coat the stock before bedding so the bedding material won't stick when it overflows or if you get it on the stock.

Some poly clear coats will form small bubbles when sprayed with an air sprayer. Try some on a piece of wood first and see how it turns out.

I like Marine Tex for bedding. It's easy to use and holds up very well. Same thing GA Precision and the Marine Corps uses.

I would bed under the SS adapter as long as there is no shaping that will cause it to get stuck in the stock.

 

[Forum Boss]

Kelsey,

Read this article on pillar bedding. Richard Franklin prefers Devcon 10110,"plastic steel") bedding compound because it dries really, really hard and shrinkage is minimal. Richard prefers flat-top pillars so that means the bedding compound must form the contour around the bottom of the action. If your choice of compound is compressible, or if it shrinks too much, that will affect the fit around the bottom of the action.

LINK: http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

But there are other knowledgeable smiths who prefer a contoured pillar for a round-bottomed action. If you go that route however, you may have to modify the top of the pillars first to ensure they really fit your action.

 

[AlanWarner]

Excuse Me?

ALL epoxies shrink. Some less than others

Devcon actually publishes their shrink factors. Others do not. I've asked about Pro Bed and Marine Tex, only to never get an answer.

Devcon steel bed, either putty or liquid have the least of any of their products.

HTH
Alan

 

[tightneck]

I've used a bunch of different kinds of bedding compounds over the years. I switched to Devcon about a year ago and cant see going back to Marine-Tex or anything else for that matter. As the moderator sugggested, the bedding article is a good source of info. The key is stress free bedding so the action wont twist when the screws are tightened. Definetely bed the adapter, it makes for a better looking job and also gives more support to the action. I've been using Sherwin Williams automotive clear coat for the last cuple of stocks and I like it a lot. It's a 2 part urethane that is very durable and dries quickly. I use a touch-up lvlp sprayer I got from home depot that has treated me well.

 

[kelseygress]

Tightneck, can you tell me more about what your setup is regarding using the Home Depot sprayer. I am really dense starting something,first time...)like this. Did you create a "mini" spray area,booth)to minimize the dust factor.
Regarding mixing the clear cote how much time do you have to use it? Also is temperature a consideration to spraying?
Dick

 

[tightneck]

I try to do my spraying outside so long as the weather is good. Spring is no good due to the pollen. Summer and Fall are the best times. In the winter I use the garage and a 40,000 btu heater when it gets too cold. I like it to be above 60 degrees when I paint. The pot life on the SW two part clear coat is three or four hours I believe. It dries to the touch on the stock in about 5 or 10 minutes though. I've used as many as 10 coats on a single stock for the durability factor. This stuff aint cheap though. One quart and a bottle of hardener was around $40, but the bottle of hardener is good for another quart of the clearcoat.

 

[Shooter32]

Tightneck do you think that the SW auto clear is as good as the other auto clears,Dupont) and others? You were talking about the SW being high, i checked on some Dupont and it is going to be about $100 for a quart, that is the reason that i am asking, because i am going to have to buy some to do a Sheane that i am working on, I just dont want anything that is going to yellow over time .

 

[techshooter]

Tightneck:

Is that SW stuff as toxic as the diisocyanate catalytic two part auto paint that I used a few years back? Do you use a filter mask, or some sort of fresh air supply? I'm asking because I'd really like to do some auto type clear coat on my stocks as well, but have been nervous about the toxicity.

Cheers,

 

[tightneck]

I think it's a very good quality clear but I haven't used any others to compare it too. As far as yellowing, I guess time will tell, but I'm satisfied so far. All paint is toxic to some degree, so I wear a filter mask. I've never even thought about a fresh air supply, but that would be a good idea.

 

[NorCalMikie]

If you don't have a "fresh air" supply, it's best to shoot your stock outside or in an area that has some circulation. The new two part stuff will make your babies be born naked!! :crazy:
On a rifle stock, don't expect the clear to turn yellow for a "loooong" time. Maybe years!! And you can't beat the finish.
Got one done and am working on two more. Sure brings out the color.

 

[Kav]

I just purchased a Shehane ST-1000,Desert Camo)inletted for Rem Short action, inletted for single shot, .223. Barrel is Krieger #17, 1/13" 26" long.
-Planning on using Marine Tex or DevCon? Your thoughts on either?
-Was told to use Dupont Clear Cote, is this Imron Clear cote?
-What type of sprayer for clear cote do you use? Can you use a small airbrush type to apply the clear cote?
-Do you bed under the single shot adapter or just around the adapter?
Any help would be appreciated, this is my first epoxy bedding and stock finishing project.
Thank you,
Dick Gresswell

I use 3M 8115 to bed but I suggest listening to Mr. Warner over what I say.

You do not need Imron esp on wood...the biggest problem I encounter in repairing clear finishes on wood stocks is where someone has banged it into something and damaged the wood..Imron resists scratching not impact. If you are dead set on Dupont go with the Chroma System. No, you can not use an airbrush you will get dry spots all over it..pick up a cheap gun. Better yet if trying to save the $$$ get in touch with Mr. Mike Ricklifs,http://www.mikericklefs.com/) he can spray it cheaper than you can buy the paint/equipment and do a better job and he is about 1/2 the cost of most of us stock painters.

bed the stock first then paint.

Good luck with your project, Kavanaugh

BTW, if you plan on spraying outside you better have your neighbors move their cars or you will be getting a detail job on all surrounding neighbors vehicles for overspray drifts...trust me.

 

[kelseygress]

Thank you all for your replies. My idle "retired" mind has conceived an idea for an outside "mini spray booth" to finish the stocks in.
Here goes:
- Obtain two,3 sided, no front panel) outside metal frames from two old washers or dryers. Tack weld them "stacked" with opening to the front. Reinforce these with enough 1"x1" angle iron to bring upper chamber to above eye level and create a top "turntable" hook setup and bottom carriage with wheels to enable mobility. This would create an interior chamber approximately 30"x30"x60"+ high.
- Open two openings in back panels approximately 5" diameter and use flex duct for pulling the atmosphere from the interior with a suction motor. Use aluminum vapor filters,as used in microwave ovens when installed over stoves) and "throwaway" coffee filters to catch the spray from the interior. Create a "holder" to hold these just before the ducting is attached to the back panels.
- Baffle top and bottom with heavy duty plastic sheeting.
- Open two openings in each of the two side panels for light fixtures, size of opening,s) to size of the light fixture,s) and attach same plastic sheeting to inside of booth far enough to not be overwhelmed by heat from lite bulbs.
Four lites would create heat that could be controlled by wattage and lite type. That would enable "drying" of sprayed finish.
- Install same plastic finish to the large front opening that can be "closed" after finishing spraying.

I think I could make this at a small cost as most components are very cheap to obtain.

Is this a pipe dream, your thoughts?

Dick

 

[Kav]

Thank you all for your replies. My idle "retired" mind has conceived an idea for an outside "mini spray booth" to finish the stocks in.
Here goes:
- Obtain two,3 sided, no front panel) outside metal frames from two old washers or dryers. Tack weld them "stacked" with opening to the front. Reinforce these with enough 1"x1" angle iron to bring upper chamber to above eye level and create a top "turntable" hook setup and bottom carriage with wheels to enable mobility. This would create an interior chamber approximately 30"x30"x60"+ high.
- Open two openings in back panels approximately 5" diameter and use flex duct for pulling the atmosphere from the interior with a suction motor. Use aluminum vapor filters,as used in microwave ovens when installed over stoves) and "throwaway" coffee filters to catch the spray from the interior. Create a "holder" to hold these just before the ducting is attached to the back panels.
- Baffle top and bottom with heavy duty plastic sheeting.
- Open two openings in each of the two side panels for light fixtures, size of opening,s) to size of the light fixture,s) and attach same plastic sheeting to inside of booth far enough to not be overwhelmed by heat from lite bulbs.
Four lites would create heat that could be controlled by wattage and lite type. That would enable "drying" of sprayed finish.
- Install same plastic finish to the large front opening that can be "closed" after finishing spraying.

I think I could make this at a small cost as most components are very cheap to obtain.

Is this a pipe dream, your thoughts?

Dick

This will sound really blunt and possibly sound rude...but that would be a waste of time and extremely frustrating to try to spray in.

If you absolutely want to spray them... cover the walls of your garage with plastic,or not), tape the door seams from the garage to the house inside and out, wet the floor, put on a good respirator, and get with it. Good luck.

 

[memilanuk]

Kav,

Sounds like you're trying to keep any dust from ruining the finish?

,also sounds like a recipe for a sweat box! )

Monte

 

[kelseygress]

Kav, my intent was to not allow the overspray to reach over the fence to neighbor's cars. This was mentioned as a possible problem when spraying some two-part clear coats. I live in the city and and neighbors live close by. I made something like this for painting my kids toys and school projects a number of years ago.
Can't spray in the garage as that is my workshop...too many heavy tools and fumes to deal with!
Dick

 

[Kav]

Kav, my intent was to not allow the overspray to reach over the fence to neighbor's cars. This was mentioned as a possible problem when spraying some two-part clear coats. I live in the city and and neighbors live close by. I made something like this for painting my kids toys and school projects a number of years ago.
Can't spray in the garage as that is my workshop...too many heavy tools and fumes to deal with!
Dick

If you are not able to get in the garage and you can't get neighbors to move their cars I'd recommend A)finding a shop that will let you use/rent their booth or B) letting someone spray them for you....sometimes it just isn't feasible to do a job IE if you don't have the right tools you wouldn't chamber your bbls. If quality is not an issue just use some brush on clear. The problem is your design will not evacuate the amount of material you will put out therefore you will have some escape and possibly get onto your neighbors cars etc which you then turn a 100-200 dollar project into a ~500.00+ project by the time you get everyone's cars buffed. Even some of the best booths I have shot in could not evacuate fast enough. The second problem is.. trying to get a nice finish with a vaccuum sucking dust etc into the paint will be impossible.

On the other hand you may have no problems what-so-ever..but I don't gamble and I'd put money down that you'd have problems using the above mentioned set up. Take care.

 

[tightneck]

Mr. Kavanaugh is very well known for his excellent paint jobs. I think I would take his word for it. Kav, as far as the neigbors cars are concerned, how close is too close?

 

[Kav]

Kav, as far as the neigbors cars are concerned, how close is too close?

I really don't know. I do know I tried to spray something in our prep booth,curtained area with a down draft vent)once and moved the cars to the other side of the shop,~60-70+' seperated by a retainer wall)...spent my weekend buffing them to remove a bit of overspray. Our house is on a ~1/4 acre lot and I sure wouldn't spray here outside for fear of getting something on someones car/house...also, not sure if my neighbors would want to huff paint fumes. I try to be sensitive to that as well, for even though I've breathed the fumes for years and it doesn't bug me in the least, some folks are really sensitive to the fumes and it will make them sicker than all get out. Take care.