New PTG Boltheads

[Curmudgeon]

I would like to replace two Savage bolt heads with PTG units. I wonder how much headspace dimensions will change. Will this change mean working the load over again? I would appreciate feedback if anyone has worked through this change. Thanks

 

[Matt Pitchon]

I just replaced my Savage bolt head with a PTG unit. I Don't know about reworking the load, but I had to headspace the barrel to the new bolt. This is not hard, but you need a barrel nut wrench and an action vice/clamp.

 

[Nomad47]

I just replaced my Savage bolt head with a PTG unit. I Don't know about reworking the load, but I had to headspace the barrel to the new bolt. This is not hard, but you need a barrel nut wrench and an action vice/clamp.

And a go gauge.

Two questions: Price? And can my custom bolt handle be moved to the PTG bolt?

 

[Steve Blair]

Two questions: Price? And can my custom bolt handle be moved to the PTG bolt?

[br]
It's just the bolt head. All other parts from the factory bolt will interchange. I think PTG also makes a Savage bolt body but your bolt handle, being a separate unit, should work fine. I also have custom handles on both my Savages.

 

[jonbearman]

The bolt handle you have is fine and the bolt heads are about 50.00 stripped.

 

[Nomad47]

Thanks, Steve & Jon.

 

[jamesgang]

I just picked up a bolt head but don't want to keep the ejector that comes on the Savage F class rifle bolts. Is there anything I can do to remove it other than having a GS fill in the hole? Is there a way to shorten the ejector so it's flush with the face of the bolt head all the time?

 

[CanusLatransSnpr]

I left my ejectors out! However, I have read that if you want to remove the spring and then flip the ejector upside down and replace retaining pin? It is doable!

Mike

 

[jamesgang]

What is the chance of brass being damaged when leaving out the ejector pin??

 

[Steve Blair]

What is the chance of brass being damaged when leaving out the ejector pin??

[br]
The same as with it in, which is why folks using single shot actions often opt for no ejector.

 

[jamesgang]

Roger that. I'll pull it out when I replace the head and run it with the hole empty. I guess if I see any signs of problems I can put it back in.

 

[RJinTexas]

I ran both of my Savage bolts with nothing in the hole after having Greg @ Gre-Tan Rifle bush the firing pin hole back before you could purchase heads from PT&G. I ran several hundred rounds through them in p-dog towns and never had any problem or brass damage.

RJ

 

[holstil]

Why would you want to remove the ejector? Are the Savages problematic?


Jim

 

[Steve Blair]

Why would you want to remove the ejector? Are the Savages problematic?


Jim

[br]
What if you don't want it to eject?

 

[GrocMax]

Instead of throwing it across the bench onto the ground it just flops out.

Ejector hole wipe on bolt opening is a pretty good sign its time to back off the powder charge too, whether the pin is there or not.

 

[jamesgang]

Yeah I'm just doing it so I don't have to pick up brass. Being a lefty owning a right bolt right eject rifle, I don't want to have to catch or block my brass from being thrown out and bend a neck. I can just run back the bolt and take it out by hand. My loads will be well below max anyway.
Maybe my next one will be a right bolt left eject, but I have to wear this one out first.

Thanks guys. Any local Missourians here, I'll see you at Wright City in a few weeks.

 

[joemax]

This is a little off topic but I wish someone made a bolt head with no plunger hole. Or maybe someone knows a way to fill it?

 

[Steve Blair]

This is a little off topic but I wish someone made a bolt head with no plunger hole. Or maybe someone knows a way to fill it?

[br]
Call Dave Kiff at PT&G. You might have to wait for the next run, but it seems like there should be no problem.

 

[memilanuk]

Just a different point of view... I got a couple PTG no-ejector bolt heads, but haven't put them on because I need to send them (along with the bolt) back to Gre-Tan to have them fitted to the firing pin (had the firing pin bushed and the pin turned to fit a while back). In the mean time I was running sans ejector with the original (bushed) bolt head on this new barrel.

Normally I do use an ejector... if the ejection is a little too energetic, I may clip a coil off the spring, but in the end I have it set so the spent case pops right into the palm of my hand as I open the bolt so that I can either catch it and stick it right into the box with the same motion as I am grabbing a new round, or just let it hit my hand and fall straight down into a little 'brass bag' under the gun. Pretty quick and efficient all around.

Earlier this week I was reminded *why* I normally run an ejector. With a good coach, stable conditions, and an apparently very healthy and motivated target puller... it was all I could do to keep up, having to pluck each spent case from the action. Even just pulling them out and letting them drop, rather than trying to fumble them back into the box was significantly slower than I'm used to.

For a Fullbore match (pair-fire) or just shooting for fun... not an issue. For string-fire (such as a coached team scenario) where you want to be able to send the round as fast as the target puller can get it in the air and the coach can give you a hold... I know I wasn't liking it very much. Made me feel rushed, and that extra couple seconds spend fussing with the case could be better spent on position.

YMMV,

Monte

 

[jamesgang]

Good to know. I'll keep that in mind for my first build from the ground up. I took this Savage F-class from the owner of 21st Centutry and since it's my first and wanted to get in on the ground floor I went with the right bolt right eject even though I shoot left handed. Blame it on cross eye dominance.