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New Brass Pressure signs 300 Remington Ultra Mag

Question....new 300 Rum brass, Nosler, working up a load for a new rifle and for the first firing (worked up to 91.0 grs Retumbo) and primers do not look any different from 88-91 (Fed 215GM primers) COAL 3.789 will once fired brass have greater internal powder capacity? How much? Should a guy base his first pressure signs on fresh brass or once fired? Easy extraction and all loadings are under an inch @ 100 yards.
 
Cannot read pressure signs from brass unless you are well OVER the normal operating limit.

Measure the thickest part of the brass above the extraction groove.

Belted mags, check for brass separation on the INSIDE of the case, at the top of the belt.

If this brass was fired in a different rifle, all bets are off in checking brass. You will have no idea whether the previous chamber specs were.

 
Question....will once fired brass have greater internal powder capacity?

Of course it will.
How much?

Anybody's guess.
Should a guy base his first pressure signs on fresh brass or once fired?

Always at least once fired and then comes your next test, keeping virgin and once fired brass properly separated.......I've seen the results when they got mixed and if you're into long range you won't wanna do that.
Easy extraction and all loadings are under an inch @ 100 yards.
As they should be always.
 
Thanks, good stuff and yes the brass is virgin prior to todays firings. Never fired in another rifle.
Cannot read pressure signs from brass unless you are well OVER the normal operating limit.

Measure the thickest part of the brass above the extraction groove.

Belted mags, check for brass separation on the INSIDE of the case, at the top of the belt.

If this brass was fired in a different rifle, all bets are off in checking brass. You will have no idea whether the previous chamber specs were.

 
Measuring velocity is important as well. If you're in the published velocity area and no physical or visible issues....rock on. If you're exceeding published data you're likely above tested pressures. Doesn't mean you're going to blow primers next round, but add in all the things that contribute to more pressure (carbon rings, fouling, temperature, lot variations...etc) and you're on your own.

Rarely does best accuracy come with highest velocity and with RUM velocities does 100fps matter?
 
You should always go easy on new brass and new barrel. lots of changes are occurring at this time. Brass is expanding in many places and the head is being hardened. The surface of the throat is going from mirror finish to not.

Your pressures are going to act very differently on new barrel vs a barrel that has 200 rounds down it.

Take 100 pieces of brass and shoot them twice with conservative loads. This will give your properly fireformed brass and a seasoned barrel. Any loads from now on will be indicative of what you should expect reliably going forward until the barrel dies.
 
You should always go easy on new brass and new barrel. lots of changes are occurring at this time. Brass is expanding in many places and the head is being hardened. The surface of the throat is going from mirror finish to not.

Your pressures are going to act very differently on new barrel vs a barrel that has 200 rounds down it.

Take 100 pieces of brass and shoot them twice with conservative loads. This will give your properly fireformed brass and a seasoned barrel. Any loads from now on will be indicative of what you should expect reliably going forward until the barrel dies.
:D
Yeah right as the trouble with the RUM is it's not exactly known for long barrel life.
Nathan Foster in NZ developed the 7mm Practical after toasting the throat of his after 400 rnds.
Is the 300 RUM any better in this regard ?
 
I had one of the first 300rum guns. I beat on it with light bullets and it's doing way better than I expected.
 

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