new 6.5-284

[LittleJeff]

Hi there, I'm somewhat new to this forum, been shooting for a while. Just got back my switch barrel rifle. I had my 6.5-06 barrel rechambered to 6.5-284 with a .295" neck size. I will be using Lapua brass and either some Redding dies or Forster dies. Is it a good idea to full length size your brass before fireforming? I've never done it in the past but thought I would ask. I will be shooting 140gr bullets more than likely. Barrel is a Pac Nor supermatch in stainless 3 groove with muzzlebrake. I heard that H4831SC powder is a good choice for this round, any other powders I should consider? Any good starting loads you might want to share with me?
Thanks for your time and info
Littlejeff

 

[dennisinaz]

Not sure how that .295 neck will work for you- that is a neck-turn only neck with my brass. I think I have a .298 reamer for no neck-turn loads. My 260 Rem has a .295 neck and I have to turn all the Lapua brass I use- even .243 brass. I think the 6.5-284 is about the same thickness- hence the .298 neck I spec'd for my latest reamer.

I have both Redding and Forster dies. I run the necks over a mandrel and then shoot them without sizing them first. This works for both Lapua and Norma. W-W brass of course, needs to be run through a full-length die first and possibly neck turned.

I have had good luck with H4831 but have shot mostly 130 grain bullets in mine. You might try R22 and VV- N560 as well. I have found that powders that work well with my 300 WBYs work well with the 6.5-284. When I was shooting 1000 yd BR with it, I used H1000, VV N-160 and a discontinued Winchester powder. I no longer use W-W powders as they are notorious for discontinuing them about the time you figure it out.

Try some R17, I haven't tried it yet but some folks are having good luck with it too.
Dennis

 

[cliffe]

check out the 6.5x284 info page. h4350 and h4831 are good working powders for 140 grainers. .295 sounds to tight unless you neck turn. cliffe

 

[LittleJeff]

Thanks for the info guys. As far as the .295" neck diameter, I kind of figured I would have to turn the necks down a little. The other reamer my gunsmith had was a .290", that seemed a little tight. OK, what is the exact process I should go with as far as case prep? FL size first, then neck turn, or should I just neck turn, then fireform and just size the necks after that?
Little Jeff

 

[BlackKnight755]

Thanks for the info guys. As far as the .295" neck diameter, I kind of figured I would have to turn the necks down a little. The other reamer my gunsmith had was a .290", that seemed a little tight. OK, what is the exact process I should go with as far as case prep? FL size first, then neck turn, or should I just neck turn, then fireform and just size the necks after that?
Little Jeff

I full length size with my forster dies then I turn the necks. I full length size every time not just the first time. Thats just my way though, someone may have another way thats better.

 

[alf]

Size, turn, shoot. No fireform needed.

If you shoot a wuss load, you can get by just neck sizing.

I anneal and full length size every time regardless.

 

[Rust]

Neck size, do a very light chamfer, check neck thickness (just in case there is an oddball in the batch), load and shoot But be very careful to clean any shavings from chamfering

My loaded rounds measure right at .289" with the lot # of Lapua brass I'm using, and 139 Scenars. Works well with a .294" chamber, for abut the last ten years and a few barrels.

The Sinclair neck thickness tool is used to check every piece of new brass after neck sizing just in case there is an oddball. After all, knocking a live stuck round out of a chamber isn't anyones idea of fun.

I've gone exclusively to H4350 since it geve the velocity I wanted and the best ES/SD numbers. RL-22 worked very well but fouled badly, and likes a hotter primer than the CCIs, prefers Winchester. H4831 was just a little less good than H4350. Thing is, given barrel life once you find a load that works stop messing around. I've only changed my load once in ten years and that only because I changed the freebore and thus the seated depth.

Is a tight neck chamber more accurate than a no turn chamber? I used to run tight neck chambers and can't prove it one way or the other in the chamberings I've been using. Nice to pretty much ignore the neck turning tools up on the shelf.

 

[topwater225]

Hey weird question for ya all....really don't mean to hijack this thread, but it got me thinking.....

Can you guys tell me the MAGAZINE capacity in your 6.5X284's in both closed magazine or hinged floor plate VS. a detachable?

The reason I ask is that a buddy of mine is building one and we aren't sure if a regular mag box will hold 3 or 4 with Remington bottom metal.....

 

[alf]

Three down comfortably.

 

[docmarv]

Hey guys,
what is the best procedure to form 284 win bras to a 6.5x284?
thanks

 

[Bnhpr]

Doc,

I wouldn't do that. Lapua 6,5x284 Norma brass is the setup to go with. Now if you want to neck it up to 284 win, folks have had good luck with that.

I loaded 51.5 gr H 4831 and 142 smk's .297 neck chamber. Skim the necks for uniformity. This is the first ammo I ever loaded for mine and have never had any reason to change anything but seating depth.

 

[dennisinaz]

I have necked quite a bit of 284 brass down with no problems. I first start each case into a 284 die to straighten out the necks as they are dinged up pretty bad from W-W. I then use a .305 bushing to take them down about halfway. Then run them through a full length 6.5-284 die.

I don't like to use sizing wax for case forming but it will work if you only move it .010 at a whack. When necking 308 brass down for 260, I first neck turn it to about what I think it needs to be. (remember, I have a .294 neck on my 260) then run it through a 7mm-08 die and then a 260 die and then run the neck over a K&M mandrel and a final neck turn with the K&M tool. ( won't it be nice when that Lapua 260 brass hits the shelves?)

To go up from 243, I simply run it over the K&M mandrel.

I use STP oil treatment for this. I have found nothing that works more effectively but it is quite messy. My second choice is Hornady Unique sizing paste which I think my simply be mink oil... If I use Imperial for this I lose a lot of cases.

Hope all this helps.

If you use STP you can run a 284 case into your 6.5 die with minimal losses- I just like the halfway step to save brass.

 

[schumi]

For me, the 142SMK with 49.5gr. of IMR4350 works fantastic in my 1,000yd. prone gun. Going to switch to Lapua brass from Winchester this year. Back the load down and start research all over.