• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Need some advice

Super long story short I got in the rifle game with a savage axis 223rem that I put some work into and it shoots amazing but after shooting some of the higher end 10-110 I and kind of feel like I need to go with something “better”. Only because someone gave me about 500pc 6.5cm and a also have a used 6BR barrel. Correct me if you think my plan is stupid I’ve got several plans running through my head. My main goal is 300-600 yard matches shooting at F class targets for score. Some say tinker with 6br and the axis action and some say it’s a waste if time/money. I’d rather not sink $300-400 into an action on a barrel I may get 1k rounds out of but then part of me says go that route with a nice criterion barrel in 6.5cm.
1) install 6BR barrel on a spare axis action I already have, get some factory rounds and see how it shoots and if it’s worth loading for. If it’s fine I’d need a stock and dies.
2) buy a nice savage factory rifle in 6.5cm and swap barrels between 6.5 and 6BR for my needs. I’ve seen barrels get swapped easily but will loads already made be off due to swapping barrels back and forth?
3) scrap the idea of 6br, give barrel back to person who gifted it and just run new 6.5cm?
 
Pick a cartridge you want and will fit your needs, then go all in on it and not chase multiples. Get to know it well, which powders and bullets and brass you like, build up a little stockpile of different components, get some awesome dies made, and shoot out a few barrels. It pays big to know everything about your cartridge like what speed it shoots best at what temp, which powders work best at what area and season, what you need to do to tighten a group up and when, etc. Its a thing of beauty
 
I don't shoot "F" class but if I was considering it, I would visit a few matches and see what the top shooters are shooting. Also, most likely they will welcome a new shooter and give you some sound advice on both rifles and cartridges. Nothing works like experience from knowledgeable people. This could save you a lot of time and money.

I like Dusty Stevens' approach which makes sense to me.
 
I would stick with what you have. At ranges of 300 to 600 yards, .223 is a good cartridge. Give the barrel back and sell the 6.5 stuff. Use the money to buy bullets, brass, powder, and primers and shoot as much as you can. Learn everything you can about reading the wind with as much practice as you can. That'll do more for you in F class. A perfect waterline won't do you much if you can't stay inside the 10 ring with wind calls. Spend your money on ammo until you use up the barrel then decide what you want to do.
 
The 223 is Ftr class shot using a bipod, while the others are F Open using a rest. Go to a match and observe which class is more interesting to you, and Fclass in general. Maybe shoot your 223 in a match to help decide what to do, since ultimately its what floats YOUR boat that matters. In other words I would not spend money until getting the feet wet for an experienced perspective.
 
Mr M61 how would you have register marks on a new action? Yeah i can see marks on the action that the barrel came off of and if it goes back on that action that would help. but how do you get register marks on a new action that has never seen this barrel before.? As far as making the head space on a new action the same as your old one head space gauges will only get you close because there is a range between them. If i were trying this i would put tape on the base of a cartridge case till it got hard to close the bolt on the old action and put the case in the new action and tighten the barrel in the new action till it touches the shoulder. When playing musical barrels on my Rimington's I buy different thicknesses of recoil lugs from PGT and let that move my headspace but to get as close as you want to do they would need to be surface ground i suspect. But ive been able to close a GO gauge nad have a NO gauge not close with a bought lug .
 
I don't shoot "F" class but if I was considering it, I would visit a few matches and see what the top shooters are shooting. Also, most likely they will welcome a new shooter and give you some sound advice on both rifles and cartridges. Nothing works like experience from knowledgeable people. This could save you a lot of time and money.

I like Dusty Stevens' approach which makes sense to me.
If you want to excel at F open class, specifically in the 300-600 yard range, get a 6BR or a 6 dasher and learn to reload for it. You will be amazed at the accuracy.
 
If you want to excel at F open class, specifically in the 300-600 yard range, get a 6BR or a 6 dasher and learn to reload for it. You will be amazed at the accuracy.
I started (not competitive shooting, but F-Class) with a used 243Win rifle, built on a Savage "Target" action, Criterion barrel (500 rds.) in a McRee chassis, with the stock "target" AccuTrigger. I shot well with it for a couple seasons. Ultimately, it was time to change barrels and I decided to go to a 6 Dasher. My eyes were truly opened, as to how well a rifle can shoot! I have never looked back and will probably always have a Dasher.
 
Mr M61 how would you have register marks on a new action? Yeah i can see marks on the action that the barrel came off of and if it goes back on that action that would help. but how do you get register marks on a new action that has never seen this barrel before.? As far as making the head space on a new action the same as your old one head space gauges will only get you close because there is a range between them. If i were trying this i would put tape on the base of a cartridge case till it got hard to close the bolt on the old action and put the case in the new action and tighten the barrel in the new action till it touches the shoulder. When playing musical barrels on my Rimington's I buy different thicknesses of recoil lugs from PGT and let that move my headspace but to get as close as you want to do they would need to be surface ground i suspect. But ive been able to close a GO gauge nad have a NO gauge not close with a bought lug .
Once I see “Mr.” then a screen name I wonder if the poster thinks I was a Warrant Officer? Or he’s a dog burying bones in the yard? I’ll go for he’s digging holes but he’s planting mines.
So it’s called switch barrel not switch action
Goodbye
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,274
Messages
2,214,911
Members
79,496
Latest member
Bie
Back
Top