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Need help with fire forming powder charge

It's time to fire form some more .257 Roberts brass into a 6.5mmx257 Roberts Ackley improved and I need some help. I've moved 2x since last time and can't find my notes. I remember using pistol powder and COW but don't remember the powder charge weight. I have plenty of WW-231 & Solo-1000. I was thinking I would use one of those powders. Can someone put me on to how much powder I should use? I'm thinking 15grs?

Also I saw a You Tuber that used beeswax pearls instead of COW. Anybody have a line on that they can point me too?

Really like my 6.5x257Ackley. I'm on my second barrel now. Wished there was better brass out there. Last time I used Nosler 257Roberts+P and was sorely disappointed. Loose primer pockets in3 – 4 firings. Too much work for that.

Thanks
Jay
 
I’ve owned several P.O Ackley chamberings and I’ve never seen a need for forming them. Your just wasting your components, there extremely accurate while blowing the cases out with a bullet, I’ve done multiple wildcats you have no choice but that’s why ackley cut the chamber the way he did.
Wayne
 
It's time to fire form some more .257 Roberts brass into a 6.5mmx257 Roberts Ackley improved and I need some help. I've moved 2x since last time and can't find my notes. I remember using pistol powder and COW but don't remember the powder charge weight. I have plenty of WW-231 & Solo-1000. I was thinking I would use one of those powders. Can someone put me on to how much powder I should use? I'm thinking 15grs?

Also I saw a You Tuber that used beeswax pearls instead of COW. Anybody have a line on that they can point me too?

Really like my 6.5x257Ackley. I'm on my second barrel now. Wished there was better brass out there. Last time I used Nosler 257Roberts+P and was sorely disappointed. Loose primer pockets in3 – 4 firings. Too much work for that.

Thanks
Jay
Start at 10gr, if that doesn't do the trick, add some more until it does (if it's not blowing your case out fully to the chamber, it's nowhere near dangerous pressure).

Lapua makes 8mm Mauser, run that through a die, trim, and then fireform.
OR
RWS makes 7mm Mauser, that should go through a die and not need trimming before fireforming.
 
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All my forming is done with a 10 percent reduced load, and
I try to hit up the bullet manufacturers for seconds. When
possible, I use a separate barrel to form, so not to kill round
count in a barrel I plan to take to matches.
 
Thanks for the replies. That 6.5mauser gives me a good starting point. I figure powder and primers cheap compared to bullets and wear on the barrel.
 
Thanks for the replies. That 6.5mauser gives me a good starting point. I figure powder and primers cheap compared to bullets and wear on the barrel.
Not sure what 6.5 Mauser you're talking about. While there was a 6.5x57 Mauser once upon a time in Europe (sold commercially) not sure you can get brass for it anymore. The 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser is a different cartridge and is too short and fat to reform into a x57mm Mauser based cartridge, you shouldn't use it to fireform your brass.
 
I’ve owned several P.O Ackley chamberings and I’ve never seen a need for forming them. Your just wasting your components, there extremely accurate while blowing the cases out with a bullet, I’ve done multiple wildcats you have no choice but that’s why ackley cut the chamber the way he did.
Wayne
I personally fire formed with c.o.w. because it was alot cheaper than a full load of powder and a bullet. I also had spoken with others and knew the barrel life of the 6mm A.I. isn't great, so I'd rather load develop and test on a formed case, even though it's going to take two firings to blow the shoulders out nicely. Just my thoughts and reasons for the c.o.w.
 
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Not sure what 6.5 Mauser you're talking about. While there was a 6.5x57 Mauser once upon a time in Europe (sold commercially) not sure you can get brass for it anymore. The 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser is a different cartridge and is too short and fat to reform into a x57mm Mauser based cartridge, you shouldn't use it to fireform your brass.
Yeah I misspoke a little. That 11grs WW-231 in a 6mm is close enough to a 6.5x55mm & I called it in my head a 6.5mauser.
 
It's time to fire form some more .257 Roberts brass into a 6.5mmx257 Roberts Ackley improved and I need some help. I've moved 2x since last time and can't find my notes. I remember using pistol powder and COW but don't remember the powder charge weight. I have plenty of WW-231 & Solo-1000. I was thinking I would use one of those powders. Can someone put me on to how much powder I should use? I'm thinking 15grs?

Also I saw a You Tuber that used beeswax pearls instead of COW. Anybody have a line on that they can point me too?

Really like my 6.5x257Ackley. I'm on my second barrel now. Wished there was better brass out there. Last time I used Nosler 257Roberts+P and was sorely disappointed. Loose primer pockets in3 – 4 firings. Too much work for that.

Thanks
Jay
I have a 6BR and a 6BRX. Using new Lapua cases to FF to 6BRX with a normal load for my 6BR. 33.3 gr 8208, 58 gr VMax jammed about 10 thou. Shoots under .500 when FF. Any reasonable powder will give you at least 50,000 PSI to FF.
 
I always just load my standard 257 Roberts loads when fireforming to AI.
I have no reservations using them (standard) when hunting with my AI.
 
I use Unique or Herco, 10 grains for 308 size cases, 12 grains for 30-06 and larger, Put some cornmeal, malto-meal, cream of wheat or what ever you have on hand over top of powder. Light a large candle and let it burn away from your loading area. When there is a large amount of melted wax, Pour it into a jar lid about 1/4" thick, When cooled push your loaded case neck into it by holding the lid upside down, This will effectively seal the powder and cornmeal into place. I have experimented with different amounts of powder, You will never get sharp corners of the shoulder, Neck junction or case Shoulder junction unless you actually use cases loaded with the proper amount of rifle powder and a seated bullet that is jammed into the lands. But many of the rounds I am using are barrel burners, SO I prefer not to send bullets down the barrel, And the way things are now, They are hard to get and expensive.

I use the lee dippers for both the powder and the cornmeal, Makes it very quick, Also use pistol primers.
 
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The way P.O. Ackley designed his cartridges, There is a small amount of interference at the datum, Enough to hold the cartridge in place while fireforming, Unfortunately, Most AI chambers are all over the place so to speak. So it's best to form using COW method.
 
I used 12 grains of tight group & cow with a .5x.5 patch stuck in it ...
Don't pack the case mouth too tight pressure can jump quick
 

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