Need Help Loading Smith & Wesson M&P 15 Sport II

[Ccrider]

My brother bought a S&W MP 15 (5.56x45 nato) yesterday and has ask me to help him out since quality ammo is scarce and he does not reload. I told him that he had to learn to load for it and I would walk him through it. Neat thing is, this puts him right in the edge of the rabbit hole and it will not take much fir me to push him over the edge.

Problem is I have never loaded for an AR type gun.

Seems that the biggest difference is the need to crimp loads. Lee makes a set of dies that seem to cover all the bases: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDL9P0K/?tag=accuratescom-20

I told him we will use Lapua 223 Remington brass. Not sure about bullets or powder. If anyone has suggestions fir an accurate load, please share it with me along with any other info that may be helpful. I have 205m AR primers and access to most powders.
Thanks
Charles

 

[jepp2]

Seems that the biggest difference is the need to crimp loads.

If you use sufficient neck tension it is unnecessary to crimp your loads. Some may disagree with this.

When sizing the brass, make sure you set the shoulder back more than you do for your bolt rifles. Beyond that, not much difference. What twist the barrel on his M&P? That would dictate what bullets I would choose to start with.

 

[TheOtherZilla]

I load a lot of this ammo. I have never crimped. But I do use a small base die to resize. 55's and TAC works well in most guns.. I also use W748. Usually I am loading 748 and 63 Sierra SP's.

 

[mac86951]

My brother bought a S&W MP 15 (5.56x45 nato) yesterday and has ask me to help him out since quality ammo is scarce and he does not reload. I told him that he had to learn to load for it and I would walk him through it. Neat thing is, this puts him right in the edge of the rabbit hole and it will not take much fir me to push him over the edge.

Problem is I have never loaded for an AR type gun.

Seems that the biggest difference is the need to crimp loads. Lee makes a set of dies that seem to cover all the bases: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDL9P0K/?tag=accuratescom-20

I told him we will use Lapua 223 Remington brass. Not sure about bullets or powder. If anyone has suggestions fir an accurate load, please share it with me along with any other info that may be helpful. I have 205m AR primers and access to most powders.
Thanks
Charles

+3 on no crimp needed. Lots of info out there for loads, do your load workups.

It's an AR; I'd recommend an easy to work with powder typically a ball powder, and I'd recommend LC brass. Less painfully when it's dented and tossed in the grass.

Are you looking for max accuracy, or plinking fodder ammo?

-Mac

 

[Cemetery21]

One more no crimper - loading ARs since 1985 without small base dies or crimp for prairie dog bench guns, coyote truck guns, range fun guns, competition guns, shortys and pistols.
I'd use cheaper brass too and there are multitudes of powder/bullet combos that do very well - hard to go wrong if you stay in the loading manuals.

 

[shoot4fun]

IMO, a small base die is a must.
I've never found crimping necessary. Same for bullets with cannelure but there are some good choices among this type bullet.
Lapua brass is not necessary nor do I recommend it in AR-type rifles. I like mil-spec brass because it is stronger in every area (for machine gun use).
Size fired brass with at least .004 shoulder movement.
I have been loading rifles 40 years and reloading longer but still struggle with 100% functionality in the AR with handholds. I have found, at least in my case, it comes from improper FL sizing, case length and getting the neck sized down closer to the shoulder.
A case gauge is always a good thing for giving me a good idea if a loaded round needs to go to the discard pile.

L.E. Wilson Case Length Headspace Ga 8.6 Blackout

L.E. Wilson has been making precision reloading tools for over 80 years. The Case Length Headspace Gauge allows reloaders to measure case length from...

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The one from Sheridan with the "window" is even better. Mine is steel but all I see now is a slotted aluminum.

 

[miningshawn]

With the 5.56 chamber and 1:7, 1:8, 1:9 twist my go-to load has been:
69gr Sierra Match King
CFE223 24.5ish grains, plus minus a couple depending on the rifle
Starline Brass
CCI 400
Seating is usually 2.275 or 2.270 using ASC magazines (metal 20 round capacity is my standard)
Neck tension usually comes in at 0.002-0.003 using RCBS, Redding, or Lee dies. I recommend small base dies every day and twice on Wednesdays for AR's. If in doubt pick up an LE Wilson Case Gauge - never a bad investment especially for an AR. Plunk the case in the gauge and quickly determine if it will fit in the chamber and if it needs trimmed.

These are good quality components that are usually available. I have never crimped; and, I have never had any issues. The one thing I truly recommend is dropping in a different trigger. It is very hard to be consistent with a factory trigger.

Hope this helps!

 

[rmr]

I have been loading rifles 40 years and reloading longer but still struggle with 100% functionality in the AR with handholds. I have found, at least in my case, it comes from improper FL sizing, case length and getting the neck sized down closer to the shoulder.

the resize is the key. FL size is a must, with a properly adjusted die. I've never needed a crimp or a SB die.

A case gauge is always a good thing for giving me a good idea if a loaded round needs to go to the discard pile.

Absolutely. if you have a good case gage, (JP rifles makes a *very* good one) this will help you solve a lot of issues.

I've loaded many, many, rounds for 3gun competition. using everything from 40gn frangible, up to 77gr loads interchanged on the same stage, often in the same magazine, with near 100% reliability. when Ive had issues, its been because of two things: incorrect FL size, or i didn't trim the case length short enough.

 

[divingin]

the resize is the key. FL size is a must, with a properly adjusted die. I've never needed a crimp or a SB die.

Absolutely. if you have a good case gage, (JP rifles makes a *very* good one) this will help you solve a lot of issues.

I bought a 223/5.56 SB die set, but never actually needed it. A standard set, adjusted for minimal bump, sized brass fine for my chamber. The need may change if you're loading brass from a rifle other than yours, or load your ammo on the hot side.

Case gauges are good to have, assuming they match your rifle's chamber. There are some that seem to be pretty screwy, and cause as much grief as not having one. You can always get by by plunk testing your ammo in the barrel; that may be more accurate anyway, depending on your choice of case gauge.

I'm another vote for no crimp.

 

[ToddKS]

On a Hornady comparator I am setting my shoulder to 1.454-1.456 which is .004-.006 set back on most chambers. Most fired brass comes in at 1.459-1.460 on my comp. I do not use a small base die.

I like H335 or TAC for loading because they meter well. H335 is my go to. For general AR use the cheapest 55gr bullet you can get is fine. I have loaded everything from 50-77gr in the past.

Crimp die is needed if you are going to flare the case mouth rather than bevel which saves a lot of time if you are loading in bulk. If you are beveling the case mouth rather than using an expander die the no crimp is generally needed.

 

[Ccrider]

If you use sufficient neck tension it is unnecessary to crimp your loads. Some may disagree with this.

When sizing the brass, make sure you set the shoulder back more than you do for your bolt rifles. Beyond that, not much difference. What twist the barrel on his M&P? That would dictate what bullets I would choose to start with.

The barrel is 9 twist 6 groove, 16 inch.

 

[jepp2]

The barrel is 9 twist 6 groove, 16 inch.

I've never seen good consistent accuracy with FMJ or steel core bullets. And I found similar short comings with the Hornady 55 gr spire bullets. But the suggested loads should let you see the rifle potential and provide plenty of fun.

 

[Ccrider]

+3 on no crimp needed. Lots of info out there for loads, do your load workups.

It's an AR; I'd recommend an easy to work with powder typically a ball powder, and I'd recommend LC brass. Less painfully when it's dented and tossed in the grass.

Are you looking for max accuracy, or plinking fodder ammo?

-Mac

I will be looking for accuracy. Not sure how accurate this AR can be but I would expect or hope for at least 1moa.

 

[shoot4fun]

I will be looking for accuracy. Not sure how accurate this AR can be but I would expect or hope for at least 1moa.

All my AR15 rifles are M&P15 in different configurations. All are models that came from the factory with 1 in 8 twist and I have a TS upper that is 1 in 7 twist and 14.5" that I run on the MP15 that is registered as SBR.
I have been very pleased with (and surprised by) the Hornady 40 and 50 grain Vmax bullets (and factory ammo).

 

[mac86951]

I will be looking for accuracy. Not sure how accurate this AR can be but I would expect or hope for at least 1moa.

Well, I'd recommend starting with BL(c)-2 or h335; or cfe-223 for easy loading. I'd say get some 68-69gr bullets, Nosler/Sierra/Hornady. Do some load workups and look for pressure signs. Most likely you'll see case head swipe before you see pressure problems.

Pick some loads that function well and aren't too hard on brass.

Put the soft side of sticky velcro on the brass deflector to reduce the brass denting.

Load to 2.255"

Shoot some groups and see how you do.

-Mac. Edit, corrected spelling.

 

[Rustytigwire]

I load a lot of this ammo. I have never crimped. But I do use a small base die to resize. 55's and TAC works well in most guns.. I also use W748. Usually I am loading 748 and 63 Sierra SP's.

All the above, no crimp imho
Start here:

You are being redirected...

Then here for AR loads

http://accurateshooter.net/Downloads/sierra223ar.pdf

 

[Hino895]

I use a lee universal decapping die first.
I take the expander ball/ decapping rod out of my size die and size my cases without it.
results in very good Bullet pull, doesn’t pull the case shoulder out and no need to crimp. Of course I load a thousand at a time.

 

[Uncle Ed]

With a standard AR15 rifle like the S&W M&P Sport I would not use expensive Lapua brass. The extractor can chew up the rims and a semi-auto will throw perfectly good brass away and make you go look for it.

So remember cheap bastards have more fun!

Save $$ By Using Lake City 5.56x45mm Once-Fired GI Brass​

Save $$ By Using Lake City 5.56x45mm Once-Fired GI Brass « Daily Bulletin (accurateshooter.com)

Accuracy Potential of Mil-Surp 5.56×45 Brass​

So, how accurate can previously-fired GI surplus brass be in a good National Match AR-15? Well, here’s a data point from many years ago that might be of interest. A High Power shooter who wrote for the late Precision Shooting magazine took a Bill Wylde-built AR match rifle to a registered Benchrest match. His first 5-round group ever fired in a BR match was officially measured at 0.231″ at 200 hundred yards. This was fired in front of witnesses, while using a moving target backer that confirmed all five rounds were fired.

He recounted that his ammo was loaded progressively with factory 52gr match bullets and a spherical powder using mixed years of LC brass with no special preparation whatsoever. Obviously, this was “exceptional”. However, he had no difficulty obtaining consistent 0.5-0.6 MOA accuracy at 200 yards using LC brass and a generic “practice” load that was not tuned to his rifle.

​

 

[Ccrider]

So remember cheap bastards have more fun!

That right there is funny . Thanks.

 

[Lone Hunter]

My brother bought a S&W MP 15 (5.56x45 nato) yesterday and has ask me to help him out since quality ammo is scarce and he does not reload. I told him that he had to learn to load for it and I would walk him through it. Neat thing is, this puts him right in the edge of the rabbit hole and it will not take much fir me to push him over the edge.

Problem is I have never loaded for an AR type gun.

Seems that the biggest difference is the need to crimp loads. Lee makes a set of dies that seem to cover all the bases: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDL9P0K/?tag=accuratescom-20

I told him we will use Lapua 223 Remington brass. Not sure about bullets or powder. If anyone has suggestions fir an accurate load, please share it with me along with any other info that may be helpful. I have 205m AR primers and access to most powders.
Thanks
Charles

Look at the daily bulletin on Accurateshooter. It has loading data for bolt and AR’s. Notice that the AR is loaded to lighter pressure than a bolt gun also. Here’s the link to the AR side from Sierra. Hope it will help.

http://accurateshooter.net/Downloads/sierra223ar.pdf