need another teaching....

[ducks-and-bucks]

If i was to get a few barrels made for a rifle i have.... where i had a switch barrel rifle.... what tools, and best bang for the buck should i get to change out barrels on an action....

barrel vice
action wrench


What all do i need? Do the wrenches have a tprque setting where you can torque to the same amount each time?


And is it worth making a switch barrel??? I figure itd give me a few more calibers to play with and reload for... just pondering the idea... im getting to the point i need another rifle like i need a hole in my head though.... i can only shoot one at a time...

 

[NorCalMikie]

What brand of rifle??

 

[kjcpoint]

Ken Farrell barrel vise from brownells is the one to get, around $100. I have tried several other types of barrel vises and they ended up in the landfill. Any side or rear entry wrenches will work fine with an indexing mark on the barrel.

Kyle

 

[Hombre0321]

Ken Farrell barrel vise from brownells is the one to get, around $100. I have tried several other types of barrel vises and they ended up in the landfill. Any side or rear entry wrenches will work fine with an indexing mark on the barrel.

Kyle

I am not familiar with the Ken Farrell vise, but I am positive it is not the absolute best there is. The barrel vise made by Bob Pastor ( the Viper on here) is certainly the best I have ever used by far, so there are two different opinions in just two posts. I also don't have much use for an "Index" mark. Using a good quality Torque Wrench and being consistent with the use of it torqueing the barrel the same each and every time is much better than a witness mark. All of my match rifles are switch barreled, this would be a good move for the OP but is depending on the action type.

Roland

 

[BoydAllen]

If the action is true and square, IMO there is no need for index marks. I use a Davidson type low torque barrel vise, except for removing factory barrels the first time. It has a broad contact area with the barrel, and four studs. I have a really scientific method for uniform tightening of the nuts that has not failed me. I grip a standard combination wrench so that the handle next to the open end is even with the edge of my hand, and work the pattern evenly until the nuts are as tight as I can manage with one large hand, without putting my back into it. I use a rear entry action wrench and after application of of a very thin layer of anti-seize, I tighten (to less than its final torque) and slightly loosen the barrel several times to seat the threads, and then and then slowly apply pressure to the ends of the T handle until it is as tight as I can make it with arm strength, with both feet flat on the floor, and no leaning into it. If this offends those who like torque wrenches let me assure you that every critical fastener in and on and engine gets tightened with one, but trying to take all of the stretch out of a 1.062-18 tenon seems to be more than is needed for this application, and I am not concerned with over or under tightening using my method. Barrels seem to be quite secure on their actions, and they come off without any trouble.

 

[kjcpoint]

Base your opinions on whatever you wish. I have Bob's vise and the Davidson.
My business requires me to take off all types of barrels, custom and factory rifles of most every contour. A couple friends of mine that are also in the business have been down this same road and have Farrell vises in there shop. The Farrell vise is superior to anything mentioned.

Kyle