Need advice: Remove shaft spacer (OT)

[Brians356]

Shown is the arbor on a table saw motor. I'm trying to remove the spacer shown here, w/ six flats and roll pin hole.

By liberal application of Liquid Wrench and tapping on the end of the shaft, I have gotten the spacer to spin a tiny bit, and also work about 1/16" up the smooth portion of the shaft. However, at this rate I will be pounding on it a looong time.

My next step will be to heat the spacer judiciously.

Question: Is there a common tool to pull something like this? Some type of two-finger bearing puller than works against the end of the shaft and hooks into the two roll pin holes, or somehow grabs the slight notches on the six corners of the spacer?

Brian
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[Bob3700]

Shown is the arbor on a table saw motor. I'm trying to remove the spacer shown here, w/ six flats and roll pin hole.

By liberal application of Liquid Wrench and tapping on the end of the shaft, I have gotten the spacer to spin a tiny bit, and also work about 1/16" up the smooth portion of the shaft. However, at this rate I will be pounding on it a looong time.

My next step will be to heat the spacer judiciously.

Question: Is there a common tool to pull something like this? Some type of two-finger bearing puller than works against the end of the shaft and hooks into the two roll pin holes, or somehow grabs the slight notches on the six corners of the spacer?

Brian
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View attachment 1220816

You might try to get two nuts that will fit the threaded shaft and lock them together. Instead of liquid wrench, I would apply either PB Blaster or Kroil. Then, using two wrenches, hold the shaft and see if you can work the lower spacer back and forth to loosed it up. Small movements back and forth will usually turn into larger movement. Heating the spacer with a propane torch is probably useless as there is not enough heat to really do any good. You need a gas welding outfit to get the outside spacer hot enough. Patience is usually the key.
Good luck.

 

[Brians356]

You might try to get two nuts that will fit the threaded shaft and lock them together. Instead of liquid wrench, I would apply either PB Blaster or Kroil. Then, using two wrenches, hold the shaft and see if you can work the lower spacer back and forth to loosed it up. Small movements back and forth will usually turn into larger movement. Heating the spacer with a propane torch is probably useless as there is not enough heat to really do any good. You need a gas welding outfit to get the outside spacer hot enough. Patience is usually the key.
Good luck.

I looked into a second nut, to lock them together as you suggest, but it's an ACME thread nut, 5/8-12 threads, so MSC or Grainger don't have one. I'll have to buy a used saw arbor nut off Ebay for $10-$15. Trying to avoid junking a table saw, hoping to find a generic shaft bearing I can replace myself, without spending much at all.

 

[AccelR8]

The motor is removed I assume. Take it to a transmission shop and ask them to try a pump puller on it.

 

[STS]

I think I would be inclined to have a couple of lugs welded to the sides of the spacer and use a traditional gear puller on it. Grind off the lugs after the job is done.

 

[akajun]

Put a roll pin in each side of the hole. Then use a pry bar to pry on the pin to push it out.
tbh though I’d probably hear it up, grab it with vise grips, then hammer the vise grips

 

[Brians356]

Good ideas, all, thanks. A friend in town suggested grabbing the threaded portion in a padded vice, and twist working the spacer with a wrench. Since the threads are ACME (flattened), unlikely to get bunged up with reasonable care.
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[Twdmar]

Is your nut metric? 16mm is pretty close to 5/8.
Use a shaft puller, you may be able put a pin if its hard in the hole if there is one on the opposite side. Does the part of the motor case come off and you could get a shaft puller behind the spacer?

 

[Brians356]

Is your nut metric? 16mm is pretty close to 5/8.
Use a shaft puller, you may be able put a pin if its hard in the hole if there is one on the opposite side. Does the part of the motor case come off and you could get a shaft puller behind the spacer?

It's an old Sears Craftsman saw, nothing's metric on it.

The spacer is keeping me from removing the case half under it. If I can creep it along a bit farther, I will be able to get underneath the spacer with a gear puller.
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[Twdmar]

It's an old Sears Craftsman saw, nothing's metric on it.

The spacer is keeping me from removing the case half under it. If I can creep it along a bit farther, I will be able to get underneath the spacer with a gear puller.
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Or cut slots in the spacer with a cutoff wheel to get a bite for shaft puller. if there was room, cut it most of the way through and crack it with a cold chisel.

 

[Intheshop]

Steel wedges are used frequently in old equipment repair.

Another approach is to grind a slot around the nut,and either use a snap ring or a shim like an automotive front suspension shim. Then gear puller.

 

[Brians356]

Or cut slots in the spacer with a cutoff wheel to get a bite for shaft puller. if there was room, cut it most of the way through and crack it with a cold chisel.

I need to preserve the spacer. The task is to open the case and replace the shaft bearing.
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[1shot]

Put some Hobo oil on it and it will pull free in no time. A little help from a propane torch before the Hobo oil will speed things up.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Tap the rotor into the case letting that outer case be the puller- once its heated of course. If you have to slide it out anyway.

 

[Brians356]

I got it off. Used a Vise-Grip padded with cardstock on the threaded portion, and channel-lock pliers on the spacer to twist/pull. It moved fairly easily after the soaking and tapping yesterday.

Turns out the roller bearing on the arbor end is fine. There's some kind of bearing or bushing on the other (blind) end of the shaft that's not turning freely. Once I tap that out I can inspect and move forward evaluating it.

Thanks all again!
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[ebb]

Glad you got it off. Many years ago I solved all of my table saw issues with a Powermatic model 66, it lost a snap ring about 5 years ago and I replaced it with a new one. When talking table saws cast iron is your friend.

 

[Brians356]

Glad you got it off. Many years ago I solved all of my table saw issues with a Powermatic model 66, it lost a snap ring about 5 years ago and I replaced it with a new one. When talking table saws cast iron is your friend.

I'm only an occasional light user of a table saw. I bought this one over 25 years ago at a yard sale, and it was already well used by then! I have a small, old Delta band saw I find many more uses for. Still, when you need a table saw, you need one. I don't mind wasting time trying to keep mine alive, if it only costs me a bearing.
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[ebb]

I do not think you were wasting your time at all. It is a sin against god and nature to throw away anything that can be fixed. I was given an atlas saw when I was only a few years into the trade, it had broken trunnions and the ones i needed were discontinued. I found a set that was close on my apprenticeship instructors saw and ordered them that was in the 70s and it still runs today. My big saw is easier to load a 10 foot sheet of 1 inch Azack on and run it by myself, the heavy stuff tends to turn over the smaller saws. I did not in any way want to discourage you fixing your saw, mine has jus been so trouble free like to let people know.

 

[Steve morgan]

Shown is the arbor on a table saw motor. I'm trying to remove the spacer shown here, w/ six flats and roll pin hole.

By liberal application of Liquid Wrench and tapping on the end of the shaft, I have gotten the spacer to spin a tiny bit, and also work about 1/16" up the smooth portion of the shaft. However, at this rate I will be pounding on it a looong time.

My next step will be to heat the spacer judiciously.

Question: Is there a common tool to pull something like this? Some type of two-finger bearing puller than works against the end of the shaft and hooks into the two roll pin holes, or somehow grabs the slight notches on the six corners of the spacer?

Brian
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View attachment 1220816

All heating the spacer will do is heat the shaft with it = useless

 

[Brians356]

Update: I exposed the bushing on the opposite end of the shaft, driving the shaft out of it. After cleaning it up (some black residue) the shaft went back into the bushing without binding or sticking. Previously it kept the motor from turning, not sure how. I greased it with some Bosch cam lube, reassembled the motor and saw, and now it works as new again. Since I'm only an occasional user, it may well outlast your 'umble narrator. Saved me from junking the whole saw and buying a replacement.
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