Just learning to shoot with sticks and it's harder than I thought. I started by resting the forend on the stick just in front of my left hand. Big groups that way. I tried resting the gun on the stick where my left hand would be and putting my left hand in my pocket. That tightened groups some. Then I rested the gun on the stick just in front of the sling swivel and left hand in my pocket. That got me too 1" groups at 50 yards. Is there anything else I can do to get a steadier rest. The sticks are tri-pod.
Need advice on shooting with sticks
- Thread starter Jacks Grampa
- Start date
After trying a multitude of field shooting aids I settled on using shooting cross sticks. None of the commercial cross sticks I tried were not stiff enough, too much flex and not long enough. So I designed my own - 1/2" diameter solid aluminum rod, ground to a point on one end and covered with 12" of 1/2" heater hose on the other end. The two sticks are bound together with two wraps of 1" velcro. My sticks are cut to 44" in total length to accommodate me in the sitting position as explained below.
Advantages to cross sticks are I can quickly adjust the height by the amount spread on the sticks. If more adjustment is needed, I simply move the velcro ring up or down. While stalking, I can be on target in about 30 seconds, I don't have to fumble with trying to adjust the legs, etc. The cross sticks (w/ the rubber heater hose) also stabilize the rifle from twisting or jumping under recoil.
To improve my performance I shoot in the sitting position from a folding, light weight, portable sportsman's chair. Both elbows are resting on my knees, two feet flat on the ground - this gives me four points of support. The non trigger hand is wrapped around the sticks with the index finger wrapped over the top of the stock thus creating a solid "locked in" hold.
This system give me a relatively stable platform and provides a greater field of view when hunting, especially varmints and predator. I carry the light weight chair in the field on a sling. It can be quickly put into service by merely unfolding it.
I've obtained the best results with the rifle slightly forward about 2 -3" from the recoil lug area on the sticks. That way the support arm is not too far forward which can lessen stability. I apply a slight pressure to the sticks with the non shooting hand locking the rifle into the shoulder. After that - all the fundamentals of accurate shooting apply, focus on the reticle, breath control, trigger squeeze, follow through, etc. The key is to be consistent from shot to shot with your hold.
It takes some practice to become proficient especially on varmint / predator size targets. All my range time is spent shooting off the sticks. The only time I use a bench is for load development and initial scope sight in - I do get a lot of weird stares at the range
. On a good day, I can shoot about 1 moa out to about 275 yards or so.
I've been using this system for about 20 years now - I've taken 1,848 ground hogs, six deer, several foxes and a few coyotes with this system.
For beginners I recommend using about 6 to 9X power setting on the scope thus minimizing the appearance of reticle movement so you can concentrate on mastering the technique without jerking the trigger. Start at 100 yards and once you become proficient move to 200 yards - proficient defined as the ability to hit the vitals of the animal you will be hunting about 90% of the time. I use a 3 x 5 card to simulate the approximate vital area of ground hog / predator.
This is probably more that you wanted to know but I'm very passionate about this system. I'm also addicted to ground hog hunting. 
Advantages to cross sticks are I can quickly adjust the height by the amount spread on the sticks. If more adjustment is needed, I simply move the velcro ring up or down. While stalking, I can be on target in about 30 seconds, I don't have to fumble with trying to adjust the legs, etc. The cross sticks (w/ the rubber heater hose) also stabilize the rifle from twisting or jumping under recoil.
To improve my performance I shoot in the sitting position from a folding, light weight, portable sportsman's chair. Both elbows are resting on my knees, two feet flat on the ground - this gives me four points of support. The non trigger hand is wrapped around the sticks with the index finger wrapped over the top of the stock thus creating a solid "locked in" hold.
This system give me a relatively stable platform and provides a greater field of view when hunting, especially varmints and predator. I carry the light weight chair in the field on a sling. It can be quickly put into service by merely unfolding it.
I've obtained the best results with the rifle slightly forward about 2 -3" from the recoil lug area on the sticks. That way the support arm is not too far forward which can lessen stability. I apply a slight pressure to the sticks with the non shooting hand locking the rifle into the shoulder. After that - all the fundamentals of accurate shooting apply, focus on the reticle, breath control, trigger squeeze, follow through, etc. The key is to be consistent from shot to shot with your hold.
It takes some practice to become proficient especially on varmint / predator size targets. All my range time is spent shooting off the sticks. The only time I use a bench is for load development and initial scope sight in - I do get a lot of weird stares at the range
. On a good day, I can shoot about 1 moa out to about 275 yards or so. I've been using this system for about 20 years now - I've taken 1,848 ground hogs, six deer, several foxes and a few coyotes with this system.
For beginners I recommend using about 6 to 9X power setting on the scope thus minimizing the appearance of reticle movement so you can concentrate on mastering the technique without jerking the trigger. Start at 100 yards and once you become proficient move to 200 yards - proficient defined as the ability to hit the vitals of the animal you will be hunting about 90% of the time. I use a 3 x 5 card to simulate the approximate vital area of ground hog / predator.
This is probably more that you wanted to know but I'm very passionate about this system.
I'm also addicted to ground hog hunting. JEFFPPC
Gold $$ Contributor
For years I have used a pair of fiberglass electric fence poles with a piece of bicycle inner tube connecting them , it can be adjusted up or down to adjust heigth. I have killed deer out to 500yds and a bit beyond using them. They are very light and serve as a walking staff. They are white, I wrap them electric tape to cover the white. I have never cushioned them but might be an idea. I usually use them from the sitting position.
Are you shooting standing, sitting, kneeling, or prone? I was a position shooter in my younger days and I learned to utilize a sling with consistent pressure. It was essential to great scores. One thing I learned from position shooting was to utilize that sling with my hunting positions as well. Repetition of equal and consistent pressure between your cheek, shoulder, grip, and tripod is essential. It you can't repeat your groups will suffer. Some suggestions are to rest the fore arm in the same place each and every time. Try a sling and see if it will help. If your tripod is attached to your fore arm, load the tripod or bipod by putting forward pressure against it. Be consistent with the pressure. I learned field shooting, by shooting prairie dogs in all four positions. A good trigger really helps!
I'll be standing. This is for an elk hunt so there will be lot's of walking involved. That's why weight is an issue with whatever sticks I settle on.
I've tried a few of the commercial ones on the market, made a set ala Varmint Al style, tried the fiberglass fence posts & am currently in the process of making a set out of two legs off of a collapsible aluminum camera tripod. Once that project is done, I would like to try a set of "African-style" sticks.
Find a solid 4' step ladder(a new Werner isn't that expensive and is the perfect size to have around shop/home).
Start using it as practice. I use a folded up towel on top. Dry fire to really get in a rhythm... then shoot a cpl groups. After mastering the ladder,then start all over with your sticks. Cheap metronome or phone app will help too. It's largely a timing thing,but you have to learn how to lean on the sticks. The ladder is simply a stepping stone.
For sitting,when first starting out; lean against a tree,for back support. Obviously thinking about recoil so utilize more of the offside shoulder than your back. Once you learn to maintain stiff upper torso.... it lessens the job of the sticks. Good luck with your practice,and hunt. Nothing better than an Elk steak.
Start using it as practice. I use a folded up towel on top. Dry fire to really get in a rhythm... then shoot a cpl groups. After mastering the ladder,then start all over with your sticks. Cheap metronome or phone app will help too. It's largely a timing thing,but you have to learn how to lean on the sticks. The ladder is simply a stepping stone.
For sitting,when first starting out; lean against a tree,for back support. Obviously thinking about recoil so utilize more of the offside shoulder than your back. Once you learn to maintain stiff upper torso.... it lessens the job of the sticks. Good luck with your practice,and hunt. Nothing better than an Elk steak.
Olspark
Gold $$ Contributor
I also had problems with sticks standing. I’ve converted to this. 
The “Vs” are collapsible so it fits flat in your backpack or whatever your carrying it in. It fits on a regular tripod which I normally have with me when I’m hunting anyhow. If you don’t carry a tripod for spotting scope normally, it may be more bothersome to you.
The “Vs” are collapsible so it fits flat in your backpack or whatever your carrying it in. It fits on a regular tripod which I normally have with me when I’m hunting anyhow. If you don’t carry a tripod for spotting scope normally, it may be more bothersome to you.
My Son and I use Hunters Specialties Wood "sticks" ( 2 light weight, oak sticks with, Rubber Tube connecting them,.. $15.00 ) They work great, in the sitting position out to, 400-450 yards for Big Game,.. IF, you use a Pack on your Chest, to support the Toe of Rifle stock (push it upwards with your foot for tension against the rifles, Toe ! ). Fill the pack with, a rolled up Foam rubber Thermarest sleeping pad, a puffy Jacket, gloves, snacks/ lunch, Game sacks/ para cord and water bag ) make sure the pack is not, too heavy, as you need to be able to shift it, upwards, towards your head/shoulder, to support Toe of Rifle. PRACTICE on Steel Plates til' you can hit a 10"- 11" steel plates at 400- 450 yards,.. EVERY TIME ! Buy a Rifle "carrier" that straps on the Packs shoulder Harness . Removing the rifle, Pack, Rifle shoved in Sticks, get in sitting position, range animal, Dial Scope and control breathing should be done, in about 1 to 2 minutes, Max. ( Practice it, for speed ! ) We walk, to cover some Country ( several Miles, usually), sit at vantage points of 200 to 500 yards and Glass for Game. This type of Hunting works for us and we both, killed Elk last season, using this method of Sticks and Packs as support (sitting ). You can shoot farther in the Prone, position IF need be,.. rested over a firm Pack using a Holland "field Bag" as Toe support. We stopped using, Bi-pods and carrying heavy, rifles ! Shooting in Standing position, did NOT seem to be very accurate for us either, so we devised THIS method and practiced it a lot and IT,.."works" well ! Hope this helps ! Good Luck ! Lefty
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Practice, practice, practice
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