Need advice on removing Burris torx screws, SOLVED-thanks

[yotehater]

I have a set of the Burris Signature double dove tail rings that need to be removed. However I keep breaking the torq T10 bits on the cap screws. I've tried soaking them in penetrating oil, heat, with the same results. It looks like I might have to drill them out. Before possibly ruining them does anyone have any other suggestions? I've thought about drilling off the screw heads and then trying to remove the leftover "stud" with vice-grips since they are too small for an eze-out.

 

[Biggabe]

I've checked all my Burris Signature rings and the screws on mine take a T15. You sure yours are a T10. I can't see Burris using 2 different sizes.

 

[JRS]

Was Loctite used on the threads?

 

[mac86951]

There used to be an old method referenced in my German car manual best I recall it was 'waking up bolts'.

Long story short, in a case like this you're need a punch either smaller than the torx or about size of screw head (IE don't mess up tool engagement points); and firm rap with a hammer on the bolt/screw/punch will reduce the binding or some such and allow threads to turn. In your case you'll need a dolly/anvil on the other side; and I'd recommend a small tap since your screws are small. (hobbyist or jewelers hammer?). Anyway, works wonders with dissimilar metals. For my info, steel screw in aluminum threads? Did you use any thread locking compound or antisieze?

-Mac

 

[sawcarver]

They should be T15. I use a little 1/4 drive cordless impact when removing them. For some reason they like to break bits otherwise

 

[CJ6]

The older Burris use T-10.

 

[yotehater]

I've checked all my Burris Signature rings and the screws on mine take a T15. You sure yours are a T10. I can't see Burris using 2 different sizes.

I'm sure it is T10. I have T15 is too big. I was able to get the broken tip(s) out with a center punch but the 2 rear screws are tight.

 

[yotehater]

The front screws didn't appear to have any thread lock. I'm not sure if the rear does.

 

[savagedasher]

The front screws didn't appear to have any thread lock. I'm not sure if the rear does.

Where are you getting the tips ? Your lucked the screws at that good. The next time hold firm tension on them and give the tip a good bump with a hammer . Larry

 

[Fyrchief]

I have a set of the Burris Signature double dove tail rings that need to be removed. However I keep breaking the torq T10 bits on the cap screws. I've tried soaking them in penetrating oil, heat, with the same results. It looks like I might have to drill them out. Before possibly ruining them does anyone have any other suggestions? I've thought about drilling off the screw heads and then trying to remove the leftover "stud" with vice-grips since they are too small for an eze-out.

I had a similar problem, and was able to cut the screws at the ring gap with a very thin cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool without damaging the rings.

 

[yotehater]

I had a similar problem, and was able to cut the screws at the ring gap with a very thin cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool without damaging the rings.

Now that might work. I'm getting the Erwin T10 bits at the local hardware. I broke my B-Square one first. I can see why they moved up to a T15.

 

[M-61]

Did you put them in?
If you are not sure about the rear and Loctite:
Take a heat gun to it....if it's Loctite it will liquefy, and if it's not the heat may help them come loose.

 

[Biggabe]

Don't think I'd use a heat gun if the rings are on a scope. I would try a soldering iron though with the tip held directly on the screw itself to localize the heat.

 

[yotehater]

I didn't put them in and the fronts came out easy. I tried a soldering iron earlier. With those plastic inserts I didn't get it very hot. I got more penetrating oil soaking and one more bit. I'll try to hammer and turn on a driver handle with the last bit before I cut it.

 

[bobinpa]

Try putting the T10 bit in the screw and use a small wrench to turn it while tapping on the top of the tip with a hammer. IIRC it takes a 1/4" wrench to turn the tip. Putting steady pressure on the T10 bit is the key while hitting it with a hammer to "break" the seal........ I've been there.... Good luck!

 

[Joe Salt]

Do your self a favor buy a T-10 S&K screw driver if you break it they will replace it.

Joe Salt

 

[savagedasher]

Try putting the T10 bit in the screw and use a small wrench to turn it while tapping on the top of the tip with a hammer. IIRC it takes a 1/4" wrench to turn the tip. Putting steady pressure on the T10 bit is the key while hitting it with a hammer to "break" the seal........ I've been there.... Good luck!

Some how it has worked for ever why would it stop now . Larry

 

[JRS]

Bondhus T-Handle drivers allow you to put a good deal of downward pressure on the screws Lifetime warranty and made in the U.S.A.

 

[yotehater]

I sure need to get a good American made set of torx wrenches. My Craftsman driver bit set only goes down to a T15.

Thanks for the advice everyone. After soaking it another day, whether that helped or not and tapping the driver while turning cracked them loose. It appears some rust from the steel screws was the culprit. I'll see if the small town local hardware store's "gun screws" bin has some good blued ones and toss these. I like the rings they just need a good cleaning and keep the 400 lb gorilla away.

 

[CJ6]

I sure need to get a good American made set of torx wrenches. My Craftsman driver bit set only goes down to a T15.

Thanks for the advice everyone. After soaking it another day, whether that helped or not and tapping the driver while turning cracked them loose. It appears some rust from the steel screws was the culprit. I'll see if the small town local hardware store's "gun screws" bin has some good blued ones and toss these. I like the rings they just need a good cleaning and keep the 400 lb gorilla away.
View attachment 997770

Brownells sells "Gunsmith" sets .