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Need a micrometer on top

P1ZombieKiller

Silver $$ Contributor
I have another new project, and I am going to be running bullets from 110 - 240 grains.
I need to be able to adjust seating depth fairly easy and consistant.

Caliber will be 300 AAC Blackout and I already have Redding dies, but the adjustments are just with a screw top and not a micrometer. Can I take a 30-06 micrometer and just replace the top?
 
Forster makes a good one for the 300 AAC about $64 at Gunstop

http://www.gunstop.com/Store/Reloading%20Dies/Forster-Products-Inc/FOR-U00099
 
Redding makes one that you chould be able to screw right in. They look like this.

http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/measuring-tools/micrometers/redding-standard-bullet-seating-micrometers-prod44706.aspx?avs

I have and use one for my 7 Dakota dies.

Jeffvn
 
Go to Sinclair. Buy the shims that fit under the dies. You can set your die anywhere you want without changing the initial setting, very easy to do.
 
Wes, if you have calipers, just measure the distance from the top to the bottom of your top piece and go from there. Save your money for more bullets...
 
Look at the number stamped atop your die stem. Go to Redding website. See Bullet Seating Micrometer chart. Find that number. Cross reference for part number. You can get standard or VLD stem. Then you can dial in your seating depth. Nice.
 
I have 4 (3 different brands) of mic top seaters. None of them return to an exact previous setting. The Wilson does the best.

You can get close, but be sure to measure from cartridge base to ogive of your loaded rounds to make sure you get what you want. When changing bullets, I will load them long and work down. These will be sighter rounds. It's easy and fast with a mic top.
 
Charlie Watson said:
I have 4 (3 different brands) of mic top seaters. None of them return to an exact previous setting. The Wilson does the best.

Are you backing them way off and making the settings by always screwing IN? That's the only these Mic "tops" will yield consistent results due to slack in the threads. Same principle as when working with cutting depths on a Mill or Lathe.
 

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