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need a good set of rings what to get?

mattri

Silver $$ Contributor
Putting a new scope on my .270 and want to upgrade the rings.

Old scope was a 3-9x50 new scope is a 4.5-14x40.

Gun kicks pretty good and had trouble with the last set coming loose.

Any suggestions for a decent set of rings that won't brake the bank? Thanks, Matt.
 
I like a set of steel Ken Farrell rings I have but those suckers are heavy. Have been happy with several Burris signiture rings (with the inserts) and the price is right too. Actually just got another set of Burris this week.
 
Another vote for the Burris Signature rings, the only kind I've bought since they first came on the market. No ring marks on the scope tube, the off-set inserts to keep your windage & elevation adjustments close to center, etc. Just too many advantages not to use them.
 
The only "issue" I have had was a tight fit on a picatinny rail but maybe that is actually a good thing. Helped a friend scope an old sporterized P17 that was drilled and tapped years ago. The shim inserts were a lifesaver.
 
Burris rings with inserts, if used correctly, eliminate the need for ring lapping. Pretty nice ,Just ordered my second set 30mm,love em!
 
A really big plus for me has been the off-set inserts. Had a Ruger #1 re-barreled, and when it was fitted, the quarter rib must have been mounted "crooked", since I quickly ran out of windage adjustment, to the right-- no problem with the original factory rib/barrel. By using the .020 off-set inserts in the front ring, I was easily able to get my windage adjustment centered, and the rifle sighted-in. Also have an old Sako Vixen L-46 (222 Rem) with the same problem & it too was easily fixed. Bought a new Zeiss rifle scope, my most expensive, and even with conventional rings that were hand lapped, knew there would be ring marks on the scope tube. With the Signatures, scope appears to have never been mounted., keeping the re-sale value as high as possible. ;)
 
I use the signature rings also. I usually bore sight then sight in at range. Then i come home and see if my bore sight was close. If not, i usually see where my sighted in scope falls on the boresighter, pull off scope, re center reticle in scope, remount and re boresight to the spot on the boresighter were the sighted in scope fell. I boresight using the signature inserts. I like to tinker so i changed scopes and guns alot so i like the signature rings cause they dont leave ring marks.
 
i put the game reaper dednutz on all my guns. lightweight aluminum, straight 1 piece design, and less than $50. super tough too
 
Most ring base setups will work well if installed correctly. It is amazing to me that so many scopes are improperly mounted....sort of a yea I know, but I just want to get it mounted. attitude.

One of the biggies, that hardly gets any ink is to make sure that your base screws are not bottoming. I just finished putting Weaver bases on a 40X rimfire, and both front base screws had to be filed quite a bit shorter so that they would not bottom in their holes. This is very common.

The way that you determine that there is a problem is to note the position of the screw head just where the threads first catch, and how many turns and fraction of a turn at bottom. You check this first without the base, write the values down for each screw, and then mount the bases only lightly tightening. If any of the numbers are the same, that screw is bottoming in the hole and needs to be shortened until the count with base is a half turn less than without the base. Obviously, if a screw is bottomed in its hole, it is not clamping the base to the receiver.


The other thing (unless you are using Burris Signature rings) is lapping. The best kit is by Kokopelli. I have never seen mounted rings, no matter what the price, that were perfectly round and aligned, even on a one piece base. Part of the process is to lightly chamfer and debur the inside corners and edges at the ring and cap parting line .
 

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