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Neck Turning

Well,
I started some more prepping/turning the 06 brass, after running ALL of them thru a SB/FL die to have uniformed the cases in size etc,

Set up the Forster neck turning tool, premeasured the necks,
I have at least a 0.0015"+ difference in neck thickness in this lot of 75 cases.

I slightly expanded the necks to have a very snug fit on the 30 cal neck turning mandrel,
and turned off about .0005" of the excess, But still had over 3/4 of the cases left,
with at least 1/2 the neck diameter NOT cleaned up.

Remeasured the necks and there is several 5-7, 10" thousands of neck thickness left to be cleaned up.

I used some junker brass (same lot) and I can NOT get the Forest necking turn tool to RELIABLY cut that final amount to get within the .001" difference needed, to make ALL the cases match as close as possible etc.

Most of the variance is right at the shoulder/neck junction, from measuring??

Since all of the cases will be necked down to the 280 AI case,
I wanted to make sure I did not have any Donuts to deal with after neck sizing and FF the brass,
to that caliber.

Question??
Would a hand held neck turned (Sinclair type etc) do a better job of uniforming these neck brass?
I have a lathe that will go down to 60 RPM'S/and LARGE collet selection, for holding the brass while hand turning etc.

I know nothing about these type of hand held neck turning tools.
Any suggestions or Ideas on which way to go??

Tia,
Don
 
Don,

Get a PMA Model A with a carbide mandrel and proper expander. The PMA is micrometer adjustable and has a really good carbide cutter, just make sure you get the proper shoulder angle on it. Then, turn about 1/16" into the shoulder. You might want to do the neck turning in two or three passes depending on the amount you're removing.

If you're really worried about the donut, get the K&M mandrel with inside cutters and the PMA adapter for it. That's what I've got and it is a really solid setup. Oh, you'll need the K&M expander for their mandrel.

Dennis
 
This is a video I made while making 30br cases.... however the steps are the same.

Not familiar with the Forester neck turning tools, but I agree with DB and suggest you get a PMA. I know Pat is at Kelbly for the week, but they will be back working in a week or so.

https://youtu.be/6s2CPnJkFxw
 
Thanks guys,

Is there other types of these hand held neck turners (PMA types) that interchange with all the other brands??

I load for all calibers from 17 to 30, and hate to buy a different tool for each caliber,
that costs $$ that can be spent in other areas, etc, IMHO.

Can these neck turners be used with a lathe, set to around 40-60 rpm's ?.

Tia,
Don
 
Don,

Use the Forster to obtain a rough, near final cut on the necks. Then use a K&M neck turner to make your final pass(es). Forsters are only accurate to 0.001 at best. K&M will hold 0.0002 if you prep the cases correctly. Just helped a friend with this on his 6 dasher.

HTH,
DocB
 
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DocBII said:
Don,

Use the Forster to obtain a rough, near final cut on the necks. Then use a K&M neck turner to make your final pass(es). Forsters are only accurate to 0.001 at best. K&M will hold 0.0002 if you prep the cases correctly. Just helped a friend with this on his 6 dasher.

HTH,
DocB

I had no problems holding to 0.083, +/- 0.0001 for ~1,150 6mmBr cases on a Forster with a 1/4" power drill.

Fast and smooth.
 
CatShooter,

Glad that worked for you, and I wasn't trying to imply it wasn't consistent for what it does. Just try adjusting the Forster by 0.0002 and see what happens.

HTH,
DocB
 
DocBII said:
CatShooter,

Glad that worked for you, and I wasn't trying to imply it wasn't consistent for what it does. Just try adjusting the Forster by 0.0002 and see what happens.

HTH,
DocB

I have several, and they work for me. I can live with a 0.0002" error, as long as ALL the cases have the same dimension.
 
DocBII said:
Don,

Use the Forster to obtain a rough, near final cut on the necks. Then use a K&M neck turner to make your final pass(es). Forsters are only accurate to 0.001 at best. K&M will hold 0.0002 if you prep the cases correctly. Just helped a friend with this on his 6 dasher.

HTH,
DocB

Actually, I get accuracy with my Forster neck turning tool equal to what you say the K&M will produce. The key is to do a little preliminary work first. Make sure the ID is straight and as true as possible. This includes making sure there is no "rebate" or burr at the case mouth. Make sure the case neck fits the turning mandrel as snug as possible and use a good lube. Next step is to make sure you don't "take it all" in one cut if you have large neck thickness variations.

You should be measuring the neck thickness variations prior to a turning operation and segregate by the amount of material that has to be removed at the worst. Turn these first with the tool set to take off .0005" - .001".

When all cases have been "rough cut" then go back and do the "fine cut" holding the cutting depth in the "tenth"s rather than deep cuts.

I just finished a new "set" of match brass for my .223 and my trusty little Forster yielded case necks that vary by no more than .0002" average. Some are exact, a few are .0003" They all did just fine on their first outing yesterday 8)
 
The best way to deal with the dreaded “do-nut” is to choose a throat length that will be sufficient to keep the straight shank portion of the chosen bullet above it.

You will find that despite your best efforts, whether it being in neck turning or sizing, after several firings and full length sizing, the do-nuts will appear.

With all of the hysteria surrounding neck seating tension, your best bet is to stay away from the do-nut.
 
7 year old post
Nice to see some names from the past.
Glad I missed the ‘hysteria’.
 
Don,

Get a PMA Model A with a carbide mandrel and proper expander. The PMA is micrometer adjustable and has a really good carbide cutter, just make sure you get the proper shoulder angle on it. Then, turn about 1/16" into the shoulder. You might want to do the neck turning in two or three passes depending on the amount you're removing.

If you're really worried about the donut, get the K&M mandrel with inside cutters and the PMA adapter for it. That's what I've got and it is a really solid setup. Oh, you'll need the K&M expander for their mandrel.

Dennis
Second the PMA model A. Makes the others seem crude.
 
I have found for sporting rifles and competition such as silhouettes and 3 gun, the Forrester will do the job. However, having a lathe would make the process less tedious, plus you could make the mandrels as you needed, at will.

I have used the Forrester for years, only for neck turning, I have a C-H chamber style trimmer for base squaring (primer pocket uniforming) and an RCBS Trim Pro, with 3 way cutters.
520CD5EE-E200-4BCF-8434-13688E6635AC.jpeg
 

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