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Neck Turning Tool,Hand)

First choice: Don Neilson's Pumpkin with carbide.

Second choice: K&M neck turner with carbide.,a lot less expensive than the Pumpkin)

Both do a good job. There are other good ones, these are just the ones I use and have confidence in.
 
I have a question, can you use a neilson carbide cutter in a K&M?
I was thinking both uses square cutters, but no idea of the sizes.
 
I'm completely happy with my Sinclair NT 3000. I use a carbide mandrel from Ron Hoehn, and a turned down 25 caliber Sinclair expander mandrel to exactly .243.
 
Sinclair Int has a great neck turner, I have both the NT1000 and the NT3000. If you plan to turn necks down to .0085 I would suggest you get two, it is a pain in the butt to adjust them. They are priced right the 1000 is $60 and the 3000 is $80, you would be served good to buy one in a kit,with the handles) and the other one by itself.
I hope this helps.
Mike
 
K&M. Carbide mandrels, expander mandrels that work with the brass. And much cheaper than the other top-line turners. What else could you ask for?
 
Hey guys I really appreciate all the good info. It will be my first time turning necks. I shot a 6.5 x .284, the gun shoot excellent. I am told if I want to get the group tighter, I should start turning the necks. The next question I have is how much I am to take off. The chamber I have is not one where turning necks is absolutely necessary. But I am told that it is worth the time for the accuracy.
What do you guys think? Any suggestions?
 
bscott said:
...The chamber I have is not one where turning necks is absolutely necessary. But I am told that it is worth the time for the accuracy.
What do you guys think? Any suggestions?

Honestly, if you are using Lapua brass, probably not. If this is a factory chamber, it'd likely only mean that you'd be working the neck of your brass a few extra thousandths for no measurable gain.

What kind of groups are you shooting and what kind of barrel do you have?
 
I was talking to Ken a while back about why you would need a carbide ID cutter for doughnuts if you turn all the way into the shoulder, he will tell you himself that his iron pushes them to the outside. His answer did not impress me. Ive also heard about the carbide causing scratches and grooves on the inside of the neck. I would not bother with the carbide mandrels.
 
Robbor,
The scratches can come from Kens cutters on the end of the mandrel. I use a plain carbide mandrel with no cutters for a donut. A carbide neck turning mandrel will cost you $30-$35.
The advantage is the cases turn smoother on the carbide with less heat. A benefit when your turning lots of cases. You still must use neck lube at any rate, of which the best I've found is Shooters Choice FP-10. FP-10 does a great job of lubing, but comes off real easy also. The Don Neilson brew of STP and Mobile 1 is a great lube also. To great in my opinion because it's a bear to get off the cases! That's why I prefer the FP-10.

Danny
 
Danny--

What's your source for carbide mandrels? I have Carbide mandrels on my K&Ms but I'd like to get a set without the doughnut cutter. It's just way too easy to scrape the inside of the neck going in or coming out. Those cutter tips are SHARP!
 
It's pretty easy to "dehorn" the reamer on the carbide mandrel. I used a coarse "EZE-LAP diamond hone and stone" to remove all of the offending corners and edges. It only took a few minutes, and now I don't have to worry about scratches inside of my case necks.
 
The groups are well under 1/4" MOA at 100yds. They are "1 holers"! I have a 28" keiger barrel. I am trying to get my 200yd groups in the 1/4 moa range.
 

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